Over charging battery????

[chrisinkanata]

In February, I had to replace both batteries in my '02 D/A crewcab. A couple of weeks ago, I notice the right frame rail, roughly in the area of the bottom of the firewall, is all rusty but clearly from some sort fluid running down it. At about the same time, I notice rust stains on my driveway under the RF of the truck. A little checking reveals the right battery has been spewing acid onto the tray and from there down onto the frame rail etc. Also noticed over the last few weeks that the engine did not crank quite as fast as in the past. The drives side battery is fine...no problems at all.

I take the battery out, back to the retailer and they test it....it's no good and replace it under warranty. I put the new one in after preping and painting the battery tray etc. Engine cranks like new again and everything is good. That's two weeks ago. This morning, I notice the same rust stain on the driveway again. Look at the battery tray on the passenger side....same thing again...spewing acid down onto the frame...battery tray really corroded. Driver's side battery is fine.

What would cause one battery to over charge like this and not the other? Battery connections are good and tight. I have not checked the wires themselves yet. I'll do that on the weekend when I get some time. I have been watching the voltmeter with the truck running, and nothing out of the ordinary.

Need some thoughts here please to get this repaired. It's going to ruin the frame in that area in no time!

Thanks,

Chris

[DmaxMaverick]

I'd suspect your drivers side battery is bad, and killing the others. If you had an overcharge situation, it would effect both batteries. Try starting with only the drivers side battery, and watch the voltage gage after a start. If it doesn't start with that one battery, and the weather is relatively warm, that battery is toast. The batteries are wired parallel, so anything effecting one battery will effect the other. This is why it is recommended they get replaced in pairs.

Another possibility could be the battery tray. If its not insulated against vibration, or the battery isn't retained tight, it can cause the battery to fail.

[Jackmchome]

Standard problem with Delco batteries installed at factory. They crack at one of the terminals and leak acid. They will replace the bad one only. The other one will fail fairly soon. No response from GM as to why they dont fix the problem. It has been ongoing for many years.

[More Power]

We've discussed (and cussed) batteries here several times through the years. Some have good luck with the Delco batteries, and some don't. Myself, I've always had troublefree service from the maintenance-free Delco's..... The batts in my 01 are original.... ;)

I wonder if some of these leaking Delco's are due to overtightening the side-post terminals?

Jim

[chrisinkanata]

Well I took the batteries in and am advised they are fine. I went to a second, same conclusion. They were a bit low so prior to installation, topped them up with distilled water. As for from where it is leaking....the top, under the vent caps. Not at the posts. These are not Delco batteries.

Checked everything I could think of and it seems fine. At idle, steady 14.1 -14.2 volts at both batteries. Starts fine with either battery disconnected. .004v volt age between the positive junction terminal for the positive cables and the both batteries. Resistance in both positive cables very low - no changes when you 'jiggle' them. Resistance in the neg higher (between the disonnected battery terminals and ground). All measurements with DVOM. When driving, the trucks voltmeter stays at just over 14v.

It must be a battery issue. As DmaxMaverick indicates, in parallel, what effects one will effect the other, so it must be a battery issue to my way of thinking.

Thoughts....?

Thanks,

Chris

[Warren96]

Chris:Can you hook up a voltmeter to the wet battery and see it from the drivers seat,so that you can drive around for a while and monitor it? That is the best way to locate an intermitent overcharge condition.Have you had to replace any lamps yet? More Power;It's funny you mention Delco batterys because my personal experience with leaking side terminals was laughable! I had to replace them 4 times!I have much better luck with the Sears top of the line battery.

[DmaxMaverick]

Something still isn't right. Were the batteries load tested, or just voltage? If you get the same results, leaking battery, try switching the batteries, left to right. I'm curious to see if the leak follows the battery. What store and brand of batteries do you have now? What is their series and rating?

[Driveshaft]

Had both of my Delco's replaced under warranty after 15 months. Both started to leak and had to jump them off, twice, on the coldest day we had in '02. Dealer gave me no problem changing both. Had to clean both boxes where they had both leaked acid. Of course when I got home I took them both out and recleaned and painted them. Went to town the next week and bought 2 of the gel types from Auto Zone and put the new Delco's in my wife's and mother's Buicks and traded those old ones in to Auto Zone. Both of those in the Buicks were too small and the new ones have not given any problems. As stated before, best to change out both at one time.

[Warren96]

How about removing the negative cable on the overcharging battery, and see if the truck will start and charge on the other.I still think there is a cable with a poor connection somewhere!! By the way, you can use your truck in the summer with only one HIGH quality battery, IF the charging system is working properly.

[chrisinkanata]

Sorry for the delay folks, but I've been out of town for a while....anyway, nothing new. My son has been driving the truck. When I got home, I checked the batteries and sure enough, the right one still has evidence of acid venting out the top, and down the side. I'm leary to switch them side to side 'cause I don't want to damage the left battery tray etc. I think I'll do that anyway today. Maybe it will reveal something?

As for the testing, they were load tested at two reputable shops and turns out they're ok. At least two weeks ago.

The batteries are Motomaster brand, from Canadian Tire, a local retailer. I have used their batteries in numerous vehicles, as well as my trailers for years and this is the first issue I've had with them.

The batteries are 875 cold cranking amps capacity with 125 reserve minutes.

Chris

[Kennedy]

I went to Optima Red Tops in my 2002 BEFORE the OE's puked. Put one of the OE's in Elaine's S-10 and ended up with the same rust trail upon return from a trip (DP Rend?) so I put an Optima Red in the S10 too.

The batteries recently died in my 2005 so I went ahead and let GM warranty them, but never installed them and added Optima Reds again.

The Red's in my 2002 were installed some time in 2004 and I recently replaced them (still under warranty) as they tested a bit weak. In fairness, my 2002 sits and drains them a lot (stereo amps seem to be the culprits) now that I drive the 2005 daily. Waiting for word on testing for warranty.

On a related note, I just picked up a new Black and Decker "Smart Charger" battery charger and really like it. It told me the Optimas had a weak cell rather than just charging and floating. Really nice little unit. I went with the 15/10/2 unit for now, but I'll probably add a larger unit later. Nice no arc, voltage display, digital charge rate indicator, Alternator test, battery diagnostics and reconditioning, wet/gel/agm selectability, fan cooled, compensates for voltage drop in extension cords etc. Also has nice heavy clamps and self stores the cords!

I couldn't find them on the B&D site but found them locally and found on the web here:

http://www.vectormfg.com/battery-chargers.php

www.invertersrus.com/vec1089abd.html


Here's a very detailed description of operation:

http://www.battery-rechargeable-charger.com/vector-auto-car-smart-battery-charger-brochure.html

[oyazi]

Those smart chargers are a spiffy tool. Just purchased a Black & Decker and was charging my optimas and was getting code F103 I believe. Indicates an open cell. So I tried rejuvenation w/same results. I then removed the battery cables and the code went away ~ guess its smarter than me.

Money well spent.

[Mark Rinker]

I have the same problem brewing with my '05 LLY. First noticed it after towing hard in hot weather. I assumed that it was from unusually high underhood temps, with the battery that doesn't get good airflow. I could be wrong on that diagnosis.

[zukfreak]

The stealership will warraty batteries, huh. My dads 02 cc drw D/A wouldn't start one dat spun over fairly quickly but just wouldn't start, Dealership towed it and inspected it said it had a terminal melted out of one of the batteries, they covered towing but charged him $175 for new batt and install. Truck was under 1 year old and only about 10k on the clock. he keep the truck till just last year with almost 80k on it and traded it in with no other batt problems... just injectors.

[nlp]

exact same thing happened to me with OE's. Replaced with RedTops...

[AB_DURAMAX]

Did any of you have trouble with the Optima Red Tops fitting correctly??? I wanted to know if they are a direct drop in fit or did you have to do any modifications??

Thanks

[oyazi]

No prob w/mine. I left the top term caps on as not used in my applicaton. Also, left the carrying strap/handle on.

[chrisinkanata]

Well, about a month ago, I went back and they tested both batteries again. Once more, the right one was found to be faulty. They replaced for the 3rd time. So far so good. Now all I have to do is fix all the damage to the paint etc to stop the bare metal from rusting. Man, what a pain......!!!!