Suburban Rear AC

[JTodd]

The AC line to the rear of my Sub rubbed on a screw and developed a hole in the metal line. Is there a way to repair this hole without replacing the entire line? I don't know if one is under more pressure than the other, but it is the lower of the two running just above the frame rail. The hole is at the back passanger door.

[DmaxMaverick]

Best repair is a coupler with compression fittings. Very easy if you have access. Measure the tubing, and make a trip to the hardware store.

DO NOT use hose/clamps. It will fail, sooner or later.

[AC Bingel]

I had the same problem with my Suburban last year. The bigger of the two lines is low pressure and the other is high pressure. I had a small pin hole but decided to replace the whole line. It was not cheap. I think the line alone was $150. I think the compression fitting idea will work. You also may be able to have it welded if you can find someone that welds aluminum.

[BobND]

Have a short length of A/C hose made up with a special repair fitting at each end. These are a compression fitting with an internal barb that actually digs into the metal line for a perfect seal. I also coat the line and the ID of the compression sleeve with Locktite.

A nearby auto supply has the fittings in stock in several sizes, and can make up assemblies by crimping the fittings.

[john8662]

Picture?

Being burb owner, I'd be curious where this screw is and where it rubs for preventative measures.

[BobND]

Not the picture you requested, but here is a picture of a repair connector on a short repair hose I have on hand.

http://ndtc3500.stellarnet.com/~blweltin/Bob/RepairFitting.jpg

Repair couplings I have used previously have a one-piece steel ferrule, as I posted before. This one uses and "O" ring, backed up by a brass ferrule.

It is perfect for replacing a short section of damaged steel line, and available in several common sizes.
http://ndtc3500.stellarnet.com/~blweltin/Bob/ACHose.jpg

[JTodd]

The lines, both for rear heat and AC run just along the passenger side rocker panel. There are rubber straps that hold the lines in place, and at least one of my straps broke, allowing the lines to hang more. The screw that caused the problem appears to be a left-over from a running board. There are a couple screws through the extreme lower edge of the rocker sticking up vertically, and are just long enough to cause a problem to a lower-hanging metal line. My problems area was right below the middle of the back door.

I repaired the heating line last night with a brass compression couple (1/2") from the hardware store. With the line straps not functioning, it was very easy to pull the line far enough out to use a plumbing pipe cutter. The fitting fit snuggly going on and seems to do job. I will update when I repair the AC line (I lost the spot where the leak is)

[john8662]

Thanks for the info! I'll keep an eye out.

I may convert my '95 engine to the newer 96+ accessories soon, just about got all the components now.

[Robyn]

If its the low pressure line ( larger one) you can simply clean the line with emery cloth then wipe it clean with brake clean and put a lump of JB weld over the hole.
I repaired a pencil sized hole on a front suction line on an 89 pickup and the fix lasted for the 12 years I owned it.

I know it sounds hokey but the darned stuff works well for many things.
One lovely thing is you dont have to cut the line or buy much. JB weld is very inexspensive.
Do the fix leave it 24 hours and recharge and go.
Good luck
RC

[DmaxMaverick]

This isn't rocket science. J-B Weld is good stuff, but even the aluminum-compatible compound is temporary, at best. Problem is, the aluminum will oxidize at the adhesion surface, and leak. A 12 year old fix is lucky, but, whatever works. The compression fittings are a permanent fix, and cost less than J-B Weld. You could use the A/C repair kit, as pictured above, if you need to patch a large area. If a brass coupler will bridge the gap, it is the best (and cheapest) method. It's just too easy not to do it. If necessary, you can use a length of copper tubing, with the couplers. This isn't shade tree stuff. Short of sweating the fittings, it is the prefered method for both high and low pressure.

[JTodd]

I had a shop but UV dye in the system to find the leaks. I easily found 2 without the special glasses, but will go back to see if there are more. My question is if I completely open the system by cutting the metal line and put on a compression couple, what do I need to do to recharge the system? Can it be recharged using the DYI recharge cannisters, or does a vacuum need to be pulled first?