4x4 Oil Filter Adapter Question

[DennisG01]

Can the 4x4 adapter be rotated? I'm thinking of using either this:

90

[Hubert]

I like the idea of the Canton racing part w/ bango bolt. I used the Perma cool model or similar and you have to live with the orientation of the NPT ports where it tightens to the filter nipple. But it does work. You have to use short elbows to to adapt lines to it also.

Did you have a question about the OE adapter. I don't think you can rotate the existing 4x4 90 deg adapter unless you cut off an orientation key.

I did not look specifically at the permacool model closely is it the 1/2 NPT ports? Its better than the 3/8 NPT.

Try and mount your filter head as close to OE spot as you can to reduce any flow loss due to friction/piping connection.

[DennisG01]

Yes, the Perma-Cool is 1/2" NPT. I was trying to come up with a way to do this without using any 90* elbows (that's why I was hoping the 90* 4x4 adapter could be rotated). I guess it's not that big of a deal to use 90* elbows, but the least amount of pieces involved, the better. The Canton piece looks VERY nice, but it's also about $70 compared to about $15 for the Perma-Cool.

[JohnC]

Take the 4WD adapter off and install the remote adapter right to the block. I forget if you can use the filter nipple from the adapter or if you need to get a 2WD version, but there's one less place to leak...

[tommac95]

Yeah, Dennis--
The CRP adapter goes on after the OEM 90* adapter comes off....requiring NO 90* hose fittings ... the CRP adapter does swivel {until final tightening of the bolt} , it is a SWEET arrangement . Mine has NO leak/weeping after 15K miles . However, a caveat/caution. On mine the block filter pad was surrounded by like a tapering boss/horn (sorry??) the tip of which contacted the CRP adapter {machined with full/ample wall/flange thickness} . I probably should have relieved the tip of the horn on the block, but i filed off about .020"-.030" from the outer edge of the CRP adapter, for about 90/120 degrees rotation [to swivel freely while fitting up hoses] , then repainted the raw aluminum beneath the originally black anodised surface.

If your block filter pad has a nice surface where the scrawny OEM Oring seats, the CRP adapter may not be warranted. On mine the oring was attempting to seal an area where the flange was nicked/dented , and there was no margin....so the big square CRP Oring was a very consoling upgrade.

You need to get the proper thread for the screw holding the adapter into the block....took me two tries, as (IIRC) the OEM filter-mount-nipple has different threads each end.

[DennisG01]

Thanks guys - I think I'm going to go the Canton way and remove the 4x4 adapter. Like you guys said - it's one less place to leak. I think the Canton product will just be easier.

[Truckie117]

Hey
I just got an email from canton saying they dont have a product for this engine? Are you guys saying you used it if so what is the part number so i can order one
Thanks
Mike

[DennisG01]

Check my link above for Canton. The adapter is #22592. There are (2) mounts that could work. I've talked to Canton a few times over the last week and was never told these wouldn't work for the 6.5. I may go with a Perma-Cool mount (#1793), strictly as a cost thing.

[stingthieves]

The adapter is #22592.
That

[6.6/6.5]

Rick,

When you post the pictures of your Canton Racing filter installation, please indicate the length of the hoses that you used. I plan to make the hoses, too, but some indication of your lengths will help order the proper raw material. Thanks in advance -------.

[Truckie117]

Thanks for the reply Dennis I will probobly go with that it just seems better and sturdyer than a cast piece I just want to do this once and right looking forward to your pictures.
Thanks
Mike

[Blackie]

I hope this answers your question. Last year my '93 4x4 6.5 TD had a weep problem around the oil filter area and I finally found it was seeping almost to the point of dripping somewhere on the adapter. GM makes a complete kit for replacing all O-rings and gaskets so I put it on and while doing so, I noticed I had to align the housing by hand. I had expected a detent or something to keep it in a specific spot but mine could be moved 30 degrees either direction before I put the finally tightening on the mounting bolt. I just lined it up pretty close to the original position and tightened it there. It was just that simple and I haven't seen a sign of oil there since. I hope that helps. You can replace the whole shebang with an Amsoil remote filter adapter and have a single filter or use their remote two filter set-up with the by-pass filter that filters down to 1 micron. Using this set-up with Amsoil can result in your never having to change oil again, just the filters and adding make-up oil. Amsoil will supply you with a kit to get your oil analyzed. Many vehicles have over half a million miles on them without performing a full oil change.

[Hubert]

Clipped:


Yeah, Dennis--
The CRP adapter goes on after the OEM 90* adapter comes off....requiring NO 90* hose fittings ... the CRP adapter does swivel {until final tightening of miles .
****
However, a caveat/caution. You need to get the proper thread for the screw holding the adapter into the block....took me two tries, as (IIRC) the OEM filter-mount-nipple has different threads each end.


Revisited:

I am redoing my oil cooler lines and remote oil filter adapter. My oil cooler lines rubbed through and I get a pesky drip at the remote filter adapter lines.

I tried tightening up my permacool adapter and it changes orientation

Tommac95 Do you remember which CRP part number you used? It appears I need to use the GM adapter and change the banjo bolt to metric threads 18MM????

[javadog]

Hubert-
I am about to do the oil cooler lines and remote dual filter project in a couple of months. What is the CRP part number? What set up did you end up with?
Can you explain it in detail and possibly include a picture or two?
What do you mean about changing to metric bolts? Thanks.

[Hubert]

Its like Stingthieves said earlier which I missed. To clarify


I assumed incorrectly the "banjo" bolt on the crp was like the bolt on the 4x4 90 degree adapter. Well its not. The CRP "bolt" is female the adapter bolts on exactly like an oil filter.

On my 97 the female threads machined into the block are 18 mm. Which is the threads on the banjo bolt (male) on the 90 degree 4x4 adapter. If you take off the adapter there is a knipple adapter for the filter in the end. One end 18mm the other 13/16 standard GM filter thread. Screw the knipple into the block and now install the CRP adapter just like and oil filter.

The only bad thing is the CRP GM adapter (13/16 thread 3-1/4 seal diameter) is a little big. I had to sand down the diameter a little to clear the oil pan lip.

My advice for oil cooler lines is Greg's Lubrication Specialist oil cooler lines & cooler. Or order a B&M super cooler of the same size as the OE one but with 1/2NPT connections. Then buy hose and fittings from jegs or Summit etc. Get hose that will stand up to 300 degrees F + (safety margin) and minimum ~1/2" ID.

I had a hydraulics shop crimp up some Aeroquip hose (300F rating) and its a bit stiff and I made them a little too long this time. Dang pricey too. Uhhggg next time I will just buy Greg's or get hose and fittings from jegs.

Its not necessarily a hard job its just real messy and tedious. Have plenty of rags handy and some extra patience.

[Hubert]

The CRP "bolt" is female the adapter bolts on exactly like an oil filter.


oopps

The the CRP really screws on like the 4x4 adapter once you install the filter knipple into the block but you can rotate it to your desired orientation. Note you will probably have to trim or sand the edge down a little for fitment.

Once a filter knipple is installed a permacool adapter installs exactly like an oil filter and you have to live with the orientation of the ports.

If you buy Perma-cool's proprietary 90 degree elbows it can work but I had bought some plumbing elbows and hydraulic fittings and made a mess of it. I wanted to use the crp adapter to try it and also reduce the number of fittings.