Help - Real Axle Leaking on '99 Suburban K2500 6.5TD

[TurboDiverArt]

I think 175,000 miles must be some bad karma for my truck. My transfer case is leaking (see other thread on that) and I also have what I believe to be a leaking axle. As part of my summer maintenance I was rotating the tires on the truck. I usually put about 25K miles a year so it

[ronniejoe]

I've replaced the axle seals on mine before.

Take the 8 bolts out of the axle flange and remove the axel...it just pulls out. Remove the lock pieces and remove the spanner nut. Now the entire hub and tapered bearings will slide off the spindle. The seal will be in the inner most bore of the hub. When going back, I recommend using a speedi-sleeve from Chicago Rawhide. The shaft (spindle) probably has an undesireable surface finish. If you need them, I can look up the tightening specs for the spanner nut and axle bolts.

Good luck.

[NH2112]

It's a fairly simple job and the only special tool you'll need is the spanner socket for the wheel bearing locknut and adjusting nut (Matco AN1929 is what I have.) Jack up the truck and remove the wheel and brake drum, then remove the axleshaft by removing the 8 bolts holding it to the hub. It should just pull out, but sometime a little tapping with a mallet is necessary. Gear oil will probably run out so have a pan underneath. Next, using the spanner socket (it's 3/4" drive) remove the wheel bearing locknut that you can see inside the hub.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p596e4c474bf836bfb6adb977028c2d81/f9ec9f13.jpg

You may have to bend a tab back on the lock ring in order for the locknut to turn. Here's the lock ring on my axle. Just pull it out with a seal pick or pair of needlenose pliers.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p105b9edd8056b2ae4d447dc9d2e265a1/f9ec9f0e.jpg

Now you'll be looking at the wheel bearing adjusting nut, it comes off the same way the locknut did. Behind that is a tabbed ring, and once you pull that out you'll be looking at your outer wheel bearing. Give the hub a pull and it'll come off (again, you may need to use a mallet for this.) The bearing may slide out (probably will) so just be ready to catch it. What you see now should look something like this:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p7912261ff423519ac11ee3329694b5cf/f9ec9f11.jpg

The seal you need to replace is on the back of the hub, as shown here:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid99/p75358d7dc3ab16639209176d648b9020/f9ec9f05.jpg

Mine is an older axle, with the drum held to the hub by the wheel studs, as opposed to your new style but the pic should be accurate. Clean and inspect the spindle to make sure the oil wasn't getting by due to a groove in it. If your fingernail catches on anything on the spindle, use emery cloth to polish it up. If there's a groove use a Speedi-sleeve to repair the spindle. Remove the old seal and install a new one, lube the lip, then slide the hub back on to the spindle. You may have to wiggle it to get it to seat fully. Slide the outer wheel bearing onto the spindle, then install the tabbed ring and adjusting nut and tighten the nut as tight as you can get it - this seats the bearings. Loosen the adjusting nut till the hub turns freely, then tighten it again till you can almost feel a very slight drag. I like to get the drag then back off maybe 1/8 turn. (This part is mostly done by feel, but it's hard to get it wrong.) You should just barely be able to feel the hub moving if you grab it and shake it in and out like you're trying to pull it off again. Slide the lock ring back on, making any necessary minor adjustments to the adjusting nut in order for at least one of the tabs to line up on the nut's slots. Check for play and free rotation in the hub again, then put the locknut on and tighten it good and tight (I don't have the torque values handy, but you want it tight.) Clean up the mating surfaces on the axle flange and hub face, put on either a gasket or a thin bead of RTV then slide the axle in. It'll go in pretty easily, you just have to make sure it's aligned with the center of the hub and you'll feel the splines slip in. Bolt it down, install the drum & wheel, then top off the gear oil in the axle. Jack up one side of the rearend as high as it'll go and leave it there for a few minutes (to allow the gear oil to run into the bearings) then lower it and do the same for the other side. Refill the diff, and you're done.

[TurboDiverArt]

I think I must not be getting email updates when a reply is posted. Second time this has happened, just seeing these replies now. Thanks for all the information guys! I think I need to jack up the truck one more time and take a closer look at things. Although I

[jspringator]

A. I have had a series of blown rear axle seals in my truck. At first I replaced the brake shoes, but after it happened so many times, I just had them degrease them. The last mechanic that fixed it was fairly knowledgable about the problem.

B. I have had the same experience about the e-mail notification of new posts failing. Must be some problem with the board.

[NH2112]

Although I’m sure it’s the same, mine doesn’t look anything like the first pictures Phil is showing. With the exception of the big axle tube sticking through the center, Mine looks very similar to a standard rear.

The pics are of the old-style 14-bolt rear, which had the brake drum and wheel hub held together by pressed-in wheel studs. I was putting the axle together, so the first 2 pics are of the complete hub/drum assembly before the shaftwas installed.


I don't remember seeing anything that looked like it had nuts on it like in your first two pictures.

The wheel studs and nuts are the outer ring. The inner ring is where the axle flange bolts go.


Where are the brake shoes in the first two pictures and where’s the backing plate?

The brake shoes and backing plate are behind the drum and not visible, which on my axle can't come off separate from the hub. You have to pull the whole assembly off and press the wheel studs out in order to separate hub and drum. Once you remove your brake drum, bearing locknut & adjusting nut, and hub, you should see something similar to pic #3.

[tommac95]

Al-
At 175K Mi all three seals on my forward diff leaked, and the rear pinion shaftseal as well.

[Scooby]

Just to be safe, add oil to the hub/bearing area prior to slipping the axle back in. DON'T rely on the jacking the truck, letting it sit method to get the oil out to the hub. Put some in, and you know it will be lubed till the oil flows out the axle tube. I had a bearing go out due to no oil about 16 years ago, so I ALWAYS make SURE there is lubricant on the bearings before driving the vehicle. Cutting off siezed/ spun axlenuts and overheated bearings & races is no fun- especially in the small space inside the hub ! Luckily my wheel didnt come off when the bearings failed- that would have really been fun. I was able to save the axle, but it wasnt pretty.

[TurboDiverArt]

Phil,

OK, now I understand what I

[ronniejoe]

There is only one nut and set of locking components per side.

The axle will come out without taking the drum off...fwiw.

Phil did a fantastic job of writing a quick, illustrated "manual" for you on this job. The Diesel Page members are a great crew!

[TurboDiverArt]

There is only one nut and set of locking components per side.

The axle will come out without taking the drum off...fwiw.

Phil did a fantastic job of writing a quick, illustrated "manual" for you on this job. The Diesel Page members are a great crew!
Yes they absolutely are! Just ordered my Spanner socket from Matco, I'll pick up the seal from NAPA tonight.

Art.

[TurboDiverArt]

One last thing. It sounds like you can remove the hub without even removing the shoes. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks,
Art.

[ronniejoe]

One last thing. It sounds like you can remove the hub without even removing the shoes. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks,
Art.

Confirmed!;)

[TurboDiverArt]

Last one, I promise! I looked on the NAPA site. They are listing a couple of seals. Which size Ring and Pinion would I have? Even though I specified the vehicle as a 1999 K2500 Suburban, they list pinion sizes of 9.5

[ronniejoe]

Yours should be the 10.5 inch ring gear. The kit you refer to will have the Speedi Sleeve in it that I referenced earlier, although it may not be provided by CR. Their patent has run out and others are making them now.

[TurboDiverArt]

Yours should be the 10.5 inch ring gear. The kit you refer to will have the Speedi Sleeve in it that I referenced earlier, although it may not be provided by CR. Their patent has run out and others are making them now.
Ahhh, the dilemma, to take the chance and buy just the seal for $9 or buy the "kit" for $40 and be sure. I guess if I can find someone to come over and give me a hand I can get the seal and if needed return it and get the kit with the Speedi Seal. The other option is to just use the Speedi Sleeve anyway regardless of what it looks like assuming that it'll seal better than without it. You would think with me working in the insurance industry all these years that I

[TurboDiverArt]

Just to close the loop on this thread. Thanks to all that helped! The replacement of the seal was relatively painless and pretty simple. On mine the outer bearing didn