No fuel to injectors

[jonflies]

I read several theads about how to troubleshoot no fuel to injectors, have done several of the items but am still having problems.

I checked power to the fuel shut off solenoid, and listened for the click when connecting the red/orange wire. I can hear a slight click, but seem to think it sounds different than before.

Made sure I had power at the advance solenoid as well, by connecting a line directly from the battery.

I checked for a good supply of fuel to the IP, by loosening the IP inlet line nut.

I loosened almost all of the injector lines at the injectors, and then loosened one on the IP side as well, just to monitor fuel progress.

I pulled the return line and do have fuel coming out of the fitting. Is it possible to have fuel out of the return fitting, but still have a bad solenoid?

Batteries were fully charged, year old starter, and my fuel pressure just upstream of the IP on start is usually around 9 PSI.

I might have 5K miles on this rebuilt IP.

[john8662]

Sounds like you've gone through the rounds to get the air out of the IP.

Had the truck been sitting for a long time prior to the no-start situation?

If you're getting sufficient voltage to the IP solenoid and can hear it clicking, then it's likely good.

If all else fails, is there a warranty still on the pump since it has 5k miles on it?

You might want to remove the three screws on the top of the IP cover to see if the IP is full of fuel and then re-isntall correctly to verify that the solenoid lever is actually being able to pull and release on the linkage inside the pump.

[jonflies]

I was driving when the engine quit. I coasted, tried to restart but no joy. I only have 5K because this is my test bed, and the truck sat for months while I had the fuel tank out for sender service, and Viton hose placement (in preparation for bio diesel use).

[jonflies]

Pulled the cover off of the IP and noted a small amount gray sludge in the housing and very small metalic pieces on the solenoid ends. I manually cycled the solenoid, and found it not smooth at all. I wanted to cycle the solenoid with power, but it would not fire. I remounted the cover onto the housing, attached power and it fired more robustly than it had previously.

Any suggestion as to where I should apply my ground?

Should the solenoid move in a two stage fashion when moved manually?

I saw one thread mention a heavy duty solenoid, which I'll order if this one is failed, is it held in by the two screws, or is it part of the cover assembly?

[jonflies]

Okay, now I'm answering my own questions.

I finally read my manual, and saw a breakdown of the shut off solenoid. The ground comes from one of the two screws that holds it into the cover, the one opposite of where the red/orange wire connects. I still would like to know if there's another source for the solenoid, other than the Stanadyne factory shops.

With the cover removed and laying on its side, so I could see what what going on, I powered the solenoid and observed it pulling in, not pushing out, as I thought it would do.

Having previously emptied the top of the housing of fuel, I noted that it filled back up, so my pump must be pumping fuel.

Any other thoughts?

[john8662]

Kind of sounds like the solenoid is bad, not holding closed, or the linkage wasn't aligned and was binding somehow.

I'm a bit worried about the floating debris you discovered in the fuel. That's usually a sure sign of a failed flex ring, which any rebuilder should have updated the pump to the EID design.

Does your pump have a little tag anwhere on it that is nothing more than a sliver of aluminum with a letter "E" stamped on it?

Connect power to the solenoid again and see if you can somehow keep it from going inside (determine if it's weak).

How well does the linkage that the solenoid would connect to move, it should side very easily and be lightly spring loaded.

[BobND]

Okay, now I'm answering my own questions.

I finally read my manual, and saw a breakdown of the shut off solenoid. The ground comes from one of the two screws that holds it into the cover, the one opposite of where the red/orange wire connects. I still would like to know if there's another source for the solenoid, other than the Stanadyne factory shops.

With the cover removed and laying on its side, so I could see what what going on, I powered the solenoid and observed it pulling in, not pushing out, as I thought it would do.

Having previously emptied the top of the housing of fuel, I noted that it filled back up, so my pump must be pumping fuel.

Any other thoughts?

Some rambling thoughts...

The new replacement Stanadyne solenoids are redesigned to be more powerful.

You can take the solenoid unit apart, and blow any metal filings out with compressed air, so it operates smoothly. Of course, that doesn't address the question of where they are coming from!

Fuel shutoff is accomplished when the solenoid is shut off, and a spring pulls on the lever, which catches the governor linkage, and pulls it to the "no fuel" position.

When the key is turn back on, the solenoid retracts, and pulls the spring-loaded lever away from the governor linkage, it doesn't actually directly move the fuel metering valve when turned on, it just gets out of the way so the governor linkage can open the fuel metering valve.

[jonflies]

The solenoid does hold fairly well. I can pull it open when powered, but it takes some force. I can also manually move the linkage back and forth in the housing. I moved the throttle, noticed the min/max gov set up moving, etc.

How do I verify that the fuel metering valve is moving/opening?

[BobND]

The lever that pivots on it's vertical axis at the right rear of the of the area beneath the pump top cover is the metering valve. If you see it rotating one way or the other as the governor linkage moves, it's doing it's thing.

Sometimes, with bad fuel, the 2 fuel injection plungers will stick in the retracted position, so they don't move outward, and take in a new charge of fuel. They normally move outwards with a charge of fuel, only to be pressed back in by the cam ring, causing injection, so if they stick inward, the result is no high pressure fuel leaving the pump..

[jonflies]

I had to pushe the truck back to the work shop, and have to leave it for a few days. Next time, I'll open it up again and check for the rotation. The next question is, how do I get the plungers to retract if they're not doing their thing?