Replacing fuel lines $$!!!

[curmudge1]

So, my '94 Blazer was dripping fuel on the driveway Sunday night, & I took it in to the Chevy dealer. Too busy Monday to look at it, they just called -- $1400 (!!!) for the job to replace the 2 fuel lines. And, maybe more, if they can't disconnect the inside-the-tank fuel pump from the line without breakeage (seems there's a pump inside the tank AND the lift pump?). AND, maybe the rusty brake lines will go when they touch them, since the brake lines are in proximity to the fuel lines. Labor over $800, parts ~$500. Labor cost is so high because they have to drop the tank.

Owwwch! Anyone know a decent mechanic in Northern New Jersey who doesn't charge dealer shop rates? and who might be able to use less expensive parts?

I've been wondering when I need to get a different vehicle, & the time might be now. <long heavy sigh>

[DickWells]

Sounds like you might want to get a set of manuals, and a few tools, and have at it in the nearest garage, barn, shed, or what have you. I wouldn't even think about paying someone that kind of money for a job you could do yourself, and even change the fuel tank and brake lines too, for a quarter of that, maybe less. These trucks can be a beast to work on, but there's nothing there that can't be changed out by a back-yard DIY'er.

[MEdlin]

I changed the fuel lift pump on my 94 Suburban with no trouble at all. Make sure you have a proper sized Flare Nut Wrench, use a little Knock'er Loose or Liquid Wrench, and you should be good to go. My 94 does not have a pump in the tank, so I'd be suprised if your 1994 Blazer has an in-tank pump. My GM manuals cover the C/K series trucks and for trucks with the 6.5TD, it only refers to the fuel lift pump mounted to the frame (under the truck) below the driver's seat. I would suggest that you purchase a GM pump because it should come complete with the connector, otherwise you may need to solder the old plug to the new pump wires. smile.gif

[Barry Nave]

Pump in tank :rolleyes: Would not need a lift pump on frame than.
That in it self would make me think about that dealer and there know how of diesels

[DChristie]

Where exactly is the leak? If you can locate it then just fix what's wrong... Loose fitting? try tightening it. Steel line rubbed through? splice in a new section or replace that entire section. Rotten rubber line? you get the idea... Sounds to me like your mechanic is trying to put his kids through college on your dime. :eek:
You can fix this whatever it is, all by your onezy's. You may not want to, or have previous experience, but it really isn't that hard. After all... they let mechanics :rolleyes: do it all the time.

[DChristie]

I forgot to add .... I think your mechanic is after your wallet b/c if the break lines are too rusty to touch w/o breaking, then they won't hold pressure while trying to stop either. Besides, even $1400. for a repair is a whole lot less than $30k for a new truck.

DonaldT

[LanduytG]

I would run as fast as you can from that dealer. Firts off no pump in the tank so it tells me they have know idea about whats going on. I don't know what the lines cost but the fuel sending unit if it is rusted seem to me I paid a couple of hundred dollars for it. The fittings will rust together and I think a person could get them apart if you had the time. I wouls isolate the leak and just repair that section unless the whole line is in bad shape.

Greg

[curmudge1]

Independent shop says $600, parts and labor. Yay! They'll be dropping the fuel tank tomorrow, to get started & make sure that they know all the parts they need. Guess there's the rear feed & return lines, as well as "intermediate" feed & returns. And the front hose parts look OK, so we'll leave those. They have prices on 3 of those 4 parts, but their source says that one of the part numbers doesn't work in the computer! So, they may have to have a piece of line, or 2 or 3, made up.

Jim Bigley emailed me privately & had some helfpul suggestions about how to do this myself. Thanks, Jim.

Could save some $ ordering parts online, but if they can fix sooner with local parts, I'll pay the premium. Already lost 2 days at the Chevy dealer. I've not used this shop before, I've only lived here 3-1/2 years, & haven't found a good shop. Maybe this one, but they seem pretty busy, so there's the little matter of always having to wait for repairs, plus they don't work on the injection pump issues. Not convenient, so I may just have to switch to a gas-powered vehicle next (soon).

Guys, I wouldn't be too hard on the dealer, they never represented themselves as diesel experts, they're just going by the book. Their parts estimate matches list $ from the online guys, only the online guys charge noticeably less than list. :) And the labor is by the book, 10 hours at $80 per hour. I think they were just trying to be upfront when they said the brake lines looked bad; so if a wrench slips or something, it won't be a shock (although, after the $1400 quote, I'm kinda de-sensitized ;). If my steel fuel lines are rusted badly, I'd bet the brake lines are rusty too. They are holding pressure though - I had an emergency stop last week that proved to me the anti-lock mechanism is working. (whew!)

If I had a better place to work (inside, not on an inclined lumpy asphalt driveway), or still had a friend or two to buy beer for to help wrench & keep company, I might try this myself. But, I don't feel like it any more. But thanks for the suggestions.

[big83diesel]

I live in Vernon, about 45 min. north of you and I have done some pretty extensive work on trucks. If you decide to do this yourself, and I would be glad to lend a hand.

[curmudge1]

Thank you, big83diesel, for your generous offer. I'm deeply touched.

And, thanks to all who offered suggestions or just sympathy.

Got my ride back, it's good to hear the ol' diesel rattle again.
For those who care, Parts cost ~$850 after taxes, and the garage only charged for 4 hours work (I'm sure it was more like 7-8), about $280 after taxes.

Part numbers, with list $, FYI (I paid less than list, so that's something):
15722273 INTER/FEED $92.09
15722221 REAR FEED $98.58
15722284 INTER RETURN $87.02
15722287 REAR RETURN $98.58
10229337 FRT FEED HOSE FILTER TO PUMP $12.24
15695553 FRT RET HOSE $49.62
15721518 FRT FEED HOSE $71.46
25027416 SENDER ASSY $357.24
25117340 PUMP ASSY $183.51

The fuel tank would be about $350, but I couldn't justify the extra $$ to myself.

[More Power]

I haven't replaced a set of fuel lines on a 6.5, but I did install all new lines in the current Duramax project truck back in March.

Gobs of fittings, stainless-steel braided hose, and lengths of steel feed/return lines all came to about $150 total. The stainless-steel braided hoses were custom produced with crimped-on fittings.

The hardest part was dropping the tank, but I was able to re-install the empty tank by myself without using a jack. Not too big a deal, really.

MP

[Mudtrekker]

My trusty old 94 K2500 XCab Jimmy has the same problem, rusted fuel lines at the tank. It will run for a couple blocks before it sucks air into the fuel filter and cause an air lock and die due to lack of fuel. It will actually siphon it empty onto the ground (or my catch pan), dripping from right under the tank.

If I understand the previous posts, there are three fuel lines to the tank than I need to replace. I talked to a fellow from Ontario Canada, (which is near where this truck came from) at the Carlisle PA Car Show earlier this month about rusted lines. He said that this is common place for vehicles up there (sometimes only 2 or 3 years old) cuz of all the snow/ice and salt used to combat it.

This Canada fellow says often they end up replacing the sending unit/fuel pickup along with the rusted lines.

I guess I need to get Big Jimmy onto our concrete pad and drop the tank. Can anyone confirm that there are 3 fuel lines on a 94 diesel PU?

It's been years since I dropped a fuel tank. I sure would appreciate any advice as I'll end up doing this myself since I still (after 16 years in these parts) havn't found a shop that I can trust to do a decent job w/o ripping me off.

[tom.mcinerney]

Mudtrekker

Can't comment on '94.
'95 has one feed line fr tank to fuel filter assy in engine valley (via Lift Pump) ...and one return fr tube at rear psgr side engine to tank.

The pickup assy tubes are prone to rust, my tank was rusting thru ontop forward, beneath a pile of sand.

I replaced brake line between frame rail and tank while at it.

The p/u assembly and tank average about $250 each, the tank is available aftermarket, not p/u. The dealers may drop price of tank...and raise price of pickup...if you get tank aftermarket.