Interior Door Handle

[kulwap]

I just did a search and did not find any similar posts so...

I have a '96 Suburban and the drivers side interior door handle has come off it's linkage (I assume) and will not operate the latch. My neighbor has a '95 GM pickup and has a similar problem so I am thinking that it has happened to many others before. So before pulling off the interior door panel to see what is going on, does anyone have any suggestions? Would the linkage have come apart or would it have broken? Is this an easy fix?

Thanks,
Don

[DmaxMaverick]

Odds are, your handle is broken. It is possible the linkage fell off, but I wouldn't count on it. I haven't seen the linkage come loose, w/o the broken piece attached. It's an easy install. You will have to drill a rivet (if it hasn't been done before), and replace with a screw/nut, or sheet metal screw, or you could rivet it again (I would use a screw).

[adamcortell]

My drivers side door became difficult to open from the inside, fine from outside. It got to the point where I could barely get out. I took the door panel off and discovered that by pulling on the wire/rod linkage I could easily open the door, nothing wrong at the latch side. It seemed the handle no longer had enough throw to activate the latch. My solution was to use pliers to make a gentle s-curve in the wire linkage to effectively shorten it. Be gentle!! This worked great and you do not need to remove the door handle or linkage. Hope this helps, may not be your problem.

[Chris611]

If you find that the handle is the problem, I found one on eBay when I had to replace mine. There are a lot out there. I acutally had black handle part break. I think it was only $15-20.

Good Luck
Chris

[adamcortell]

On follow-up, I should confess that while pulling on the the linkage to see if it would open the door, I broke my door handle. Be careful the first time! I got a new color matched handle at 1aauto.com (not a1auto) for about $20. It looked sturdier than the original.

[DmaxMaverick]

Keep in mind, those of you "bending" pull rods to compensate for too little throw; what is the reason for the lost throw? The rod won't stretch (realistically). You have stamped metal at the latch end, and cast at the handle end. If it's the handle, don't try to "fix" it by bending (shortening) the rod, and certainly don't try to bend the cast handle. The cast metal doesn't deal with bending very well. Once it gives, it WILL break, and probably sooner once you put more strain on it by adjusting the pull rod. The handles are easy to replace, and usually less than $20 at the dealer, and less at auto parts chain stores. Also, I don't suggest trying to get one out of a wreck, unless you know its history.

[adamcortell]

If I remember correctly I broke the handle pulling on the linkage to make sure it was the short throw of the handle causing the problem, not the latch mechanism. I replaced the broken door handle and it still wouldn't pull the rod far enough to open the door. So I then bent the pull rod and it has worked geat since. Since when have we felt secure that GM made everything "right" in the first place?

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't get me wrong. I'm probably the greatest advocate for "shade tree mechanics". Some shortcuts work, some don't, or not for long.

The science behind the door latch mechanism isn't all that sophistocated. If you needed to "adjust" the linkage in one way or another, with all else being sanitary, that's fine. My point was the cast metal. If it was the part that gave up the extra, "adjusting" any other part will only make a later repair more diffucult, as it will likely be too short, when the time comes (and it will). In your case, you were likely the exception, not the rule. As much as these trucks are the same, they are not carbon copies, as we all know. Mine was only a word of caution, to ensure everyone that whomever reads this will consider all angles, before jumping into "it worked for him, why not me?" It's just the nature of the beast.

[CareyWeber]

Having replaced at leas four of the inside door handle I have some ideas on the subject.

They break in the pivot area.

Causes I think there are two:
Opening the door while your hand is on the door handle which pulls it to the rear more than it was designed to.

Door hinge pins/bushings if they are worn it takes more effort to open the latch.

Napa has the door handles in grey for about $15.00. My truck has a blue interior I take the Napa handle out and install it in the my blue factory surround.

I pop rivet mine back in because never thought of using a screw.

Carey

[Marty Lau]

I have put 3 inside door handles in and one set of hinge pins, oh yeah the tail gate handle stuff I had done at the dealer 4 years ago. Typical nickle and dime GM crap. The dealer stockes several colors and told me they sell several a week. I had/have less of these type of fixes on my Ford products.

[Dihrdbowti]

Last weekend I replaced my door handle and after installation I noticed that I had to pull the handle what felt like past its stopping point. I did slightly tweak the rod and now the handle operates quite a bit better. I also went so far as to remove the latch system. Once I cleaned it could see that the clearance around the edge that wraps around the striker was almost non existent causing chaffing on the metal piece that holds the door closed. After this adjustment my door now opens and closes as if it was new.

[kulwap]

Thanks for all the help. It turned out it was the cast metal on the handle that broke, and I replaced it last weekend.. No more having to do the "redneck roll" to reach outside and open the door.