Upgrade Advice for newbe

[NorthStarMN]

I have 1994 Chevrolet 6.5L TB CrewCab HD - 2WD Dually. Recent purchase - 185,000 miles. Stock. New Gen F.I. pump. Just bought FSD heat sink.

I am on a budget - so tight $$. Plan on pulling 26ft Fifth wheel 8500lbs with boat behind that. Need to make final upgrade decisions / purchases this week. Runs good. White smoke on morning startups. First tank 14 MPG. Needs brakes. I changed oil and filter so far.

Cooling system upgrade = I am piecing together the cooling system upgrade.
Used 97 crossover, dual thermostat housing, new 180 Thermostats, and all other pieces new GM P/N. I plan to purchase the Kennedy 20" fan.

QUESTION. Is the Kennedy Clutch really worth the $$250.00. Or go with SSDiesel Fan Clutch $150.00---- or OEM and adjust thermostat? I live in Minnesota - but it does get Humid and 95 plus degrees. Anyone got good used?

Plan to go with GM timing chain replacement. Other chain recommendations ? Won't do Timing Gear set at this time. Plan to go with GM Part number Front seal.

Oil lines replacement. (leaky at oil cooler) Only option - GM part number

[ronniejoe]

Welcome to the forums.

The Kennedy clutch is the only aftermarket clutch that actually lowers the engagement temperature. It is well worth the money.

As for upgrades, the load you want to pull will be far more than you want to attempt in stock form.

Read the articles in my signature to see what it takes to make the 6.5 tow the loads you want to tow.

Good luck!

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"...the load you want to pull will be far more than you want to attempt in stock form." The only thing wrong with RJ's advice is he didn't make the word "far" bold & underlined. Cruise easy, glue one eyeball to the temp. gauge, try to find a way to get at LEAST an EGT, & hopefully also a boost gauge. Cruise at ~ 2200 rpm in 3rd gear; pull hills at ~ 2800 rpm in whatever gear works. Pulling a load in OD will never hurt your tranny (I assume your truck is a 3/4 or 1 ton with a 4L80-E) unless it hunts, which yours would always be doing, because NO WAY do you have enough power to pull that load in OD. (That's assuming you could hold a steady speed in OD on flat ground without a tailwind.)

If you can come up with a 3 or 3 1/2" exhaust system, that will help mpg, EGT's, & power slightly; it's the only safe mod for a 6.5 without the cooling system upgrade you're in the middle of, & gauges. (Make sure you do the high-output water pump too - I don't think you'll gain anything by just going dual 'stat.)

White smoke @ startup? I don't know, but I'd suspect retarded timing. After you get your timing chain replaced (& hopefully the high output water pump at the same time), get the TDC offset set properly. (Do some searches - there's lots of opinions here where the best place is to set TDC offset. Most agree -1.94 makes the best power, & has the most rattle; some stay around -1.50 & claim that works better for them.) I'll bet your white smoke is gone after this.

Save your nickels & dimes, hope she holds together 'til you've got enough $, then build a motor JUST LIKE RJ's. You absolutely will not believe the difference. I drove Ron's Sub - you would have to look under the hood to convince yourself he didn't stuff a Dmax in there.

Blessings!

[GMC Hauler]

[quote=NorthStarMN]
Oil lines replacement. (leaky at oil cooler) Only option - GM part number

[ronniejoe]

I must admit, until January of 2005, I would have completely agreed with GMC Hauler. I had done most of the external modifications and thought that I was in pretty good shape. In fact, Moondoggie drove it not many months before it blew up. When I was at Kennedy's shop in June of 2004 doing the dyno runs, he picked up a set of his splayed main caps and said, "You'll be needing these pretty soon." I chuckled and said, "Yeah." In my mind I was thinking, "No, I won't. At least I sure hope not!" When the engine blew, I decided to do it right.

The first article in the series pretty well describes the things that must be done to tow that heavily. The other two articles describe the all-out set up.

The intercooler, cooling upgrades and electronics modifications will be necessary if you want to be able to run over 55 mph with that load.

[GMC Hauler]

The intercooler, cooling upgrades and electronics modifications will be necessary if you want to be able to run over 55 mph with that load.

I wish I would wake up one morning and the intercooler fairy had visited and put an in intercooler under my pillow...........:rolleyes:

[Dvldog8793]

Where exactly in MN??? I am in Grand Rapids and maybe could help you out with parts and or advice.
Let me know...
L8r
Conley Janssen
USMC 87-93

[NorthStarMN]

1st phase done.

This is what I did for now.

Got the dual crossover tube with dual thermostats and new top hose for the '97 engine cooling. - Ebay - $65
OEM 97 fan and clutch and new belt tensioner - Used Diesel Page classifieds - $55 (with shipping)

Bought the following: SSDiesel
HO 130 GPM Water Pump for 6.5TD's
Model: ssd-074 $99.95
Heater Hose/Tube Push-Lock Connector
Model: ssd-056 $8.50
Oil Cooler Hose Adaptor Fitting
Item Number: ssd-023 $19.75
6.5 TD Lower Radiator Hose
Model: ssd-778 $44.95
6.5 TD 97 + 180 Degree Thermostat Kit
Model: ssd-046 $30.00

Put in a new OEM Timing chaing and Gears -
New brake pads front and rear - turned rotors
New serpitine belt
All gaskets and misc - aprox $350
Napa -

IssPro Gauges - Boost, EGT, TransTemp, 3 pod pillar - Aprox $250

Used Remote PDM with cooler $85

Replace the oil cooler lines and fittings - aprox - $100 (can't find receipt)

I will post what happened on the camping trip - later
(Lost Boost pressure on the way home)

I'm in Silver Lake MN - We went camping North of Grand Rapids at Scenic state park by Big Fork, MN

Sorry for the late reply - (months) but wanted to close the thread.

NorthStarMN