Cost efficient rebuild parts?

[smcghan]

Have a cracked head (82 k10). Found another one. Know I don't want to put new top end on a bottem end that has 160k on it. I've had the pan off and the ring's look like new. has 50 psi oil pressure. But used a little oil. So I need to find ring's, head gasket's ( do I want std. or thicker gaskets)? And a full gasket set. Anybody know of a reasonably priced parts place? Plus I picked up another complete I mean complete w/ guages, and everything BANKS, w/ exhaust etc. That I will transfer over to my origanal motor once it's back together. The other engine is supposed to be a runner but I know what I have w/ mine so I want to keep it.

[john8662]

I was wondering if you'd found a replacement head for your truck yet.

What are those details?

Your best bet for a good price on components will be through one of the venders, but your local auto parts stores will usually be able to get you what you need.

Are you pulling your engine out of the vehicle, or is it already out?

Installing new rings will require a light hone to knock out the glaze on the walls to allow the new rings to bite and seal.

For head gaskets, only buy the Felpro headgaskets, make sure you're getting the 6.2L version. As far as thicker gaskets, they're un-necessary because you're not decking the block, just replacing gaskets, the STD thickness gaskets are what you want.

[smcghan]

John,
I meant to say the bearings look like new not the rings. But there is virtually no ridge at the top of the cylinders. What do you think of a in frame ring job? the pan is easy to get off, I'll just have to rotate the crank around? Save me some time. Which I don't have alot of.


I picked up another 6.2. It was supposed to have origanally been in a Frito Lay delivery van, then pulled out when they converted the fleet to 4 cyl. diesal's. And put int the Frito Lay's managers personal p/u. It was in his p/u for 4 years or so. The block casting #'s are 14022660. On the pass. side rear id D079. On the heads is D 139. I haven't taken the valve covers off yet. It's supposed to be a runner, it supposedly had a oil leak on the dr. side rear head gasket. They pulled the heads and had them shaved. But it still leaked at freeway speeds. Where he showed me the leak was is a H2o jacket? BUT above it the valve cover gasket (he only used black rtv) was pooched out. So dilemma time. Do I spend the time and put valve cover gaskets on and swap engines? or stick w/ mine that I know what it need's?

The best part is it also came w/ a complete Banks system including pyrometer, tach., and boost guages. Cross over exhaust etc.

The turbo has on the front of it A/R 60 roto-master 104330 stamped on it.
And #1404 has been etched below the 104330.
on the back of the turbo is a tag w/ roto-master inc. T04B35 514996
& 104265.

But the bad part is it looks like something was in the turbo that shouldn't have been. The front impeller's show some damage on the outer edge of the fin's. A diesal mechanic buddy said to pull it apart and order a bigger impeller so it would build boost quicker. Any thought's?

[john8662]

Sorry for the delay in responce.

First off, I don't recommend an in-frame re-ring job. This type of job is always best performed with the engine sitting on a stand. Inline engines (CAT, CUMMINS, etc.) are much easier to do an inframe due to the inline configuration, V's are not.

The problem with a re-ring is that you'll have to pull all the pistons and rods out of the holes, then clean, then hone the cylinder walls, then re-install everything. If you've got a wear ring at the top of the cylinders (probably have a little in just a few holes), you have to use a reamer to remove, or the hone (not the ball type). After a hone, you pretty much have to wash the walls down to remove the shavings (fine metal/stone), which you'll contaminate everything doing this inframe.

Pull the engine, you'll thank yourself in the long run.

Frito Lay engine? Hmm. I can see how you could get an oil leak from a head gasket, but that is rare. There are ports in the heads that allow oil to drain back down from the rockers/pushrods back into the block, btu this isn't pressurized. The most common leak (as you guessed) is coolant from head gaskets. It's possible that the valve cover is leaking, RTV is the only thing you want to use to seal these things on though. Some care has to be taken to get a good seal though. Carefully inspect the valve covers for holes, etc. Other sources for oil leaks could be the oil feel line for the turbo had a pin hole leak, etc, or the Vacuum pump pod has ruptured and is leaking oil (this REALLY does happen, got the evidence.). A bad vacuum pump will bleed oil all over the back of the engine.

The turbo you're describing sounds like standard Banks equipment. The are a rotomaster A/R 60 compressor and are a 1.15 A/R on the exhaust housing. I'd go ahead and have the turbo rebuilt. Could you post a picture of the compressor fins, it may not be a big deal. The mechanics recommendation to replace the compressor wheel isn't accurate, just replace it with what it needs. You could send your turbo off to Majestic turbo or other rebuilder, expect to spend ~$350

It's a tough choice on what to do in your situation...

If you're using excessive amounts of oil in the orig engine, installing the running frito lay engine might be a good idea (if you need to get up and running again) while you rebuild your original engine, etc.

Fixing to do the same thing myself. My '82 engine is making expensive noises, so I'm going to drop in a decent runner while I do the rebuild ordeal on that engine.

[smcghan]

I found out the good head I purchased is worse then the one I took off. So I'm back to wandering what to do. I found a complete rebuilt one from a local auto parts store for only $428.00. A that price I think I should get both. Yea right. So John do you still have contacts that have good 82 casting's? I wander what the shipping will be from Texas to WA.? Or does anybody else have a line on one? I could change to newer years but then I need injectors. So any help would be appreaciated.

Thanks Steven

[Robyn]

Clearwater cylinder head in Florida.
New aftermarket castings with reconditioned valves and parts.
$315 each plus 20 bucks shipping and they pay the frieght back on the core
they are on the net so give them a look.

[john8662]

Wouldn't touch an aftermarket diesel head with a 20 foot pole...

As for an '82 cast head, yeah, I know of a place where you can get one all fixed up. Call The Diesel Depot, they're a vender and will likely have one.

Any decision on whether do re-ring?

What is wrong with the head that you purchased?

I'll be talking to the vender mentioned later this week and I'll see what they have in stock and prices for ya.

J

[smcghan]

I appreciate the response's. I don't know what is wrong with the head I bought, the machine shop and I have been playing phone tag. They left me the message that the original head I had was in alot better shape then the next 3 I took them. The only thing wrong with the original one is a crack between the valves that was small enough it didn't become aparent until hot tanked. But he dosn't feel comfortable doing a valve job on it cause the crack would continue to spread. The local wrecking yard won't order me any more cause they say they are all cracked.

[john8662]

check your PM

[84 Convert]

The local machine shop here in Chehalis,WA can and will sleeve the heads like the procedure that started TDP ( if I understand this right) and also has a milling machine that can do the heads as well, if necessary.(some shops want to use belt sufacers on diesel heads). I'm sure you're a few hours away, but it is one more option.

Gregg

[smcghan]

Greg,
Could I trouble you to get me a phone # for the machine shop? I drive truck and deliver in the west side area all the time. I could set them on the floor of my truck.

[84 Convert]

The name of the shop is Britco. Their number is 360-330-2434.

I sure hope this works for you. I have close to 30K on their work. I assembled the motor but they obviously did the machine work. So far so good!

Gregg

[smcghan]

Gregg

Thank you I will give them a call.

Steven