Water injection nozzle size?

[ol9465er]

Hi all...

I have searched TDP and several web sites as I am considering water injection. However, I can't find a recommended nozzle or Gal / hr size vs PSI. I am not looking for lots of power, I am more looking for cooling and some power.

Any recommendations or leads to websites that may have info would be appreciated. Any comments also welcomed....

Thanks,

[DmaxMaverick]

Try contacting Bill Heath. He's well versed in the process, and sells complete systems, as well as components for WMI.

[Chris611]

I'm not an expert, but I will try to help. I built my own system last summer. I did contact Bill Heath and he was more than willing to help, so he is a good resource. The biggest thing I learned from Bill is that you don't need to worry about "misting" the water in. In other words don't worry about the nozzle size or spray pattern. He said to just dribble it in and the speed of the air coming off the turbo will "atomize" the water. I used a needle valve threaded into the outlet of the turbo to control the flow rate. I calibrated it out of the truck so that I knew what the flow rate was per a given setting. This isn't totally accurate because when the turbo is suppling say 12psi of boost, the flow coming out of the needle valve will be less than when the flow coming out has 0 pressure. But it does give you an idea. Someone I talked to said to turn the flow up until the truck starts to buck when the water comes on and then turn it down slights to stop the bucking and thats the spot. I never got that high. I think I was at 3-4 gal/hr and it would drop the intake temp significatly. One a full throttle run from a stop, w/o water the intake would hit just over 200 degree. With water, it never gets over 110 or so. I've also left the water off when pulling a hill. When the intake hits 200 I turn on the water and the gauge drops to about 110 or so. It's cool to watch. Anyway good luck with the project. Make sure in your electrical skematic you try to have some failsafes. If something like a relay were to fail and the pump turns on in the middle of the night, and you goto start the truck, it won't be good...:)

Chris

[a5150nut]

On carburated motors I used to use double gaskets with stainless or brass screen sandwiched in between to atomize the gas. This might work for your water injection to. Don't use too fine a screen or it would cause too much restriction.

[ol9465er]

Thanks for the info so far everyone...

Chris911,

It sounds like you placed the water injection post-turbo. Did you place it close to the turbo, on the bend of the of the intake plenum or closer to the intakes. As for the failsafe, are you using a normally off check valve for restricting water flow after shutoff.

Thanks,

[DA BIG ONE]

I had installed Heath's water injection designed for motors w/o IC after my IC it did little because of low pressure of pump (30psi) water just streamed not absorbing heat. I am eventually going for a high pressure pump so water mists and absorbs heat to see if this helps knock back high IAT under heavy load.

However, I'm thinking my IAT/EGT issues under heavy load is the 3" exhaust/backpressure w/everything superheating under full boost.

[Chris611]

Yes, I placed the fitting on the actual turbo housing. There is a straight section just before the rubber boot for the intake. I was able to drill and tap the fitting right there. I should have stated earlier that the pump I used was a Shurflow 8000-542-236. The pump has a bypass built in at like 50 or 60 psi. I was afraid if I used an on-demand pump with a pressure switch, it may have problems constantly turning on and off. For the safety, I just made sure I wired to a switched circuit and then wired the solenoid (which is also a safety) to the switch, so if for some reason the pump turns on the solenoid would block the flow. If the switch fails, I could still be in trouble because both the pump and solenoid would turn on. I'm open for suggestions on this one. I also put three lights by my switch. One to tell when the pressure switch is on, one for the solenoid and one for the pump. They should all be on or off, but if one didn't come on, I would know somehting was wrong. Hope this helps

Chris