PDA

View Full Version : Living in bizzaro world......



2tough2park
04-02-2006, 17:55
I'll keep this short. Recurring problem with code 18 and 35. Something about ign timing and fuel temp cam something or other. Going by memory. Seems I've had this problem since I bought the truck, but it was masked by other problems more major. Now that all the major stuff has been resolved, this is all that's left. Truck runs like a top, until the glitch sets it. Stutters, cuts out, usually catches, runs loud with retarted timing, check engine light comes on. Happens randomly, but will usually happen at least once every time I use the truck. An experiment showed that if I turn the truck off for 5-10-15 minutes whatever, starts right back up and runs like slick willie again, but sets the aforementioned codes. Need some help here. I've tried everything I know as well as info from this board, but nothing has worked. Could this be tied to my high idle function which is not working? When engine is at operating temp, motor will not come off high idle until the ign is cycled. Could this be a harbinger of death for the PMD?

Mark Rinker
04-02-2006, 20:04
Bizzaro, indeed. Sounds electrical. In fact, it almost HAS to be electrical. Unlike any PMD failure I have heard of.

I'd start with cleaning all chassis grounds and treating with dielectric grease. If it persists, I'd do the same with all harness connectors, starting at your ECM and working my way to the PMD, pump connections, and thru-firewall connectors.

One of my trucks has alot of issues right at the fuse box. I end up cleaning and replacing fuses until the melted/shorted fuse is located. The one labeled FSOL will do what you describe if its shorting out intermittently.

16gaSxS
04-03-2006, 09:25
Randee;

Go through More Powers trouble shooting list, new fuel filter, check grounds, ect. How is OPS and lift pump?? If it's the PMD/FSD it will get worse over time once the driver starts to die it gets worse until it won't start. An old trick I have used is if it dies and you have cold water or ice or snow, pour it on or hold the ice on the driver for a couple minutes. If you get a quick restart chances are it's your driver.

john8662
04-03-2006, 11:23
Just by Definition:

DTC 18 - Pump Cam Reference Pulse Error
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Response Time Short)

Always tackle codes in the order they are received, so the first code is because there is something amiss with the Optic Sensor or Cam disc in the pump. So, disconnect the optic sensor on the top of the pump, look for the harness that has as black block on it (it's a filter) and disconnect it also. Then connect only the plug from the harness (not the filter harness, you're leaving this one out temporarily) into the injection pump.

Clear codes (batteries) and see if the problem re-occurs. If so, reconnect everything again, it's not the filter or a connection issue.

If it fixes is, try re-intalling the filter harness with some di-electric grease and see if this is an electrical problem with contacts.

Otherwise, I'd venture to guess that the optic sensor is bad or cam gear is missing teeth etc. Or, you need a pump...

The timing advance thing that your truck is doing is a limp mode for the pump when it can't see the optic sensor, it will run (sorta) with out one..

J

Bnave95
04-04-2006, 12:38
This take me back in time.
Not to many, If any. What I'm reading about the way your truck is acting also drove me crazy.
Replace the crank sencer and all was good. Mine was worse at start and cool.
Code 35 has drove me crazy for over a year and then some. The SOL-D was a short fix for the 35.
Called JK some where a couple weeks ago and told him a story.
I delt with the 35 and 78 what seem's to be forever.
Last week I did a cooling flush,rad. cleaning (ever use CLR on just the Rad.? works great) and after having *180 for years and more years I desided to install *195 stats. Lately The SES has not been coming. Thought,did the light burn out? Nope. Only now have one code,41. Brake S/W.? Fluke,flaky? Crusecontrol works,brake lights OK.
Don't even have the 78 any more.
JK never heard of this,all I know is I'm also stumped.

2tough2park
04-04-2006, 14:52
john8662-last night I looked on top of the pump and I see a harness plug attached to a black block on top of the pump. I can unplug it, but there is nothing else attached. Am I missing something? Also, the plastic plug itself has become brittle and breaks easily. I found it held in with a zip tie. I replaced that as well to make sure it would not come unplugged.
As far as filters and the like, everything that I can change has already been done and this problem persists. I am just stumped. Is it because something is missing from the pump? Is the pump bad? I have no idea how old it is but it has a green tag. The problem seems livable for now as long as it doesn't leave me stranded. I'm going to focus on fixing the high idle problem first. Maybe there is a slim chance it's contributing.

Bnave95
04-05-2006, 03:40
but it has a green tag---------

That is an older rebuilt pump. Now seeing you problem I'll vote R&R pump.