Oil Line Fix?

[rjwest]

My oil cooler lines are starting to leak at the crimps. Should I change them from cooler to block, or just replace the hose section( fittings at block look good)? Do the block fittings fail without warning(leaking))?
Greggg's lines are no longer available. Any other vender sell the complete asm.?

? I have remote filters. Could I " loop" the oil lines at the block ( short line )and install the cooler in the remote lines with a fan?

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by rjwest:
Greggg's lines are no longer available. Any other vender sell the complete asm.?Why are Greg's no longer avalible?

Carey

[Tough Guy]

I just had a set repaired at a local hydraulics hose place. (Catey Controls in Missoula) They replaced the hose and transition fittings, I haven't installed them yet but they look great! They cost $77 IIRC...

Cheers

[More Power]

Here's another possibility (http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006639)... smile.gif

MP

[LanduytG]

These lines are not available at the moment, but by the end of the month we will have braded stainless steel Teflon hoses. Doing the final fit this week. If my son is home long enough for me to try them on his truck.

Greg

[rjwest]

Thanks for replys,

Question, The GM fittings at the Block.

How reliable, If they are not leaking are they ok.?

Or do they just " Fail" without warning...(leaks).

[DickWells]

Mine never did fail, or even leak at the block. Others may have had problems. I know that Andy Langerand had one come loose in Florida, which dumped several quarts of oil before he saw the guage drop. No damage to the engine, but it could have been iffy, if he hadn't been on the ball. Better to put in Gregg's lines if you can wait. If you can't wait, remember that you can buy regular pipe ells for the block, and get a local hydraulic shop to crimp up fittings for you.
The new 90 degree ells have to be turned just right to give you room to tighten on the new flange fittings. You can modify the clamp up by the left motor mount to hold the new soft pipes.
Greggs lines went almost all the way up to the cooler with nylon sheathing, before using steel to hook to it. Both had corrugated plastic loom around them to elliminate chafing. Mine were more than long enough, so I simply looped them behind the bumper with cable ties over the plastic loom. Twelve grand on them since summer, and dry as a bone.
Someone else put a post in here last summer about making up his own hoses from a local hydraulic shop. It's worth a search back through the archives to see if you could find it. If that guy reads your thread, he might just put it back in here for you.
Best of luck.
Dick Wells

[tom.mcinerney]

>>Question, The GM fittings at the Block.
How reliable, If they are not leaking are they ok.?Or do they just " Fail" without warning...(leaks).

I don't think we know the incidence, or mechanism(s) of failure, quantitively. A few members in past 2 years have reported major, sudden leaks resulting in critical loss of oil (&) pressure. The loss of the circlip/e-ring/retaining wire was mentioned, and the fitting blew out , IIRC. I think a few people had leaks at the oring seal, but orings are good technology (occassionally need renewal, don't work poor fits). On mine one of the pipes was corroded['frozen'] into the (oring+ering) fitting, the other was readily serviceable as designed...I noticed that the 'ering'/seal-wire-clip had lost its proper shape when i removed it, I reshaped with care. I reused one OEM termination fitting with a new oring, and replaced the other with new (replacement fitting ca $15) from dealer. I think Escalade Diesel experienced failure on a new vehicle. See post by Arlie @
<http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=007684>
Orings, and eclips have proven themselves in good installations.

Threaded 90* fitts probably more secure--the oring is nice for production and service, but how often do we R&R our oil lines when they aren't leaking?

If (when) i were to do it again, i'd use 90* hose barbs to tubing along engine, clamped, to hose to chassis-mtd-cooler. At least one aftermarket repair involved only hose which was inadequately supported, and abraided thru.

[ 12-05-2004, 05:50 PM: Message edited by: tom mac 95 ]

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by rjwest:
Thanks for replys,

Question, The GM fittings at the Block.

How reliable, If they are not leaking are they ok.?

Or do they just " Fail" without warning...(leaks). rjwest,

Mine never leaked at the block or at the cooler just where the hard line and hose were joined. If I had seen the fix that Morepower did first I would not have bought Gregs lines that is not to say that Greg's are bad just that I would have done it the cheaper way.

Carey

[DA BIG ONE]

I am considering a low pressure alarm w/flashing light, and an oil accumulator just in case.

[Eric Selinger]

I may be the guy in question... I had some hoses made at a local hydraulic shop here for about 40$
They used high compression fittings to mate to the original steel ends. It worked out great. I have some pics if you want to see them, email me at selingere@starband.net

Eric

[LanduytG]

First new set off lines arrived today. They look GOOD!. Will get them fit up this week and then we should have more late next week.

Greg

[Arlie]

I had one of the catastrophic failures noted above and described in prior posts. Thought I got a away with it but the engine siezed a couple hundred miles later.
Ask yourself if you want to depend on the wire spring in the OEM fitting that has done in numerous engines.
HOW BADLY DO YOU NEED A QUICK DISCONNECT HERE?
I'm forever ****ed with GM over this one. :mad:
Arlie

[HudB1]

I have a set of the the metric to standard oil cooler adapters for the 97 and up trucks for sale under classifieds. i thought i needed them but i had stadard on my 96 truck. i went all braieded with 1/2 pipe adapters on the block side. worked great
good luck
hudb1

[MTTwister]

quote: " .....The loss of the circlip/e-ring/retaining wire was mentioned, and the fitting blew out , IIRC. ....."

I haven't been under there to look - but would it be possible to put a 'worm clamp' over the circlip to keep it from popping out? enough room? Feasible?

[Arlie]

This will not work. The spring clip engages a ridge on the male fitting on the line. The small engaged area on the ridge wears down. It is not the clip that fails. At least this is not what happened to mine.
Get rid of it.
:rolleyes: Arlie

[tom.mcinerney]

MTTW~
The OEM 'clip' is just a bit of stainless spring wire about .020" thick. Don't know the proper descriptive term.
You raise an excellent point. My guess is that the OEM clip only fails when there's some sort of alignment problem that puts a stress on the lines/retainer-clip [or when a distorted clip has been reused]. I bet our local auto parts stores have a number of 'erings',and related retainers etc, which are designed (unlike the OEM retainer) for substantial stress, and would last indefinitely and securely in our application.
Cautionary note...Since the tubing is aluminum, the steel retainer must not be hard-edged, Arlie reports abrasive wear even with the smooth SS wire. Also the OEM quick release-slots will require some fitting, may not be too easy. A trip to auto parts with a new fitting($15) from dealer might be fruitful.