Replacing Oil lines what will I have to do?

[bdv]

Looks like lines have been leaking for sometime. Having looking under engine and read through postings, (after having ordered parts now thinking I should have gone with other then OEM supplier) have question about how to replace lines. Have received new OEM lines as well has O-rings for lines. I am not sure where O-rings go because I asked supplier to send any seals necessary to replace lines. Looks like oil lines have quick-connect at block end. How do these come off and go back on? Do I need special tools? Also have seals for filter adapter (oil leaking from bolt) does the drive shaft for front wheels (4x4) have to come off to replace oil lines and/or adapter seals? If so how hard any tricks to taking drive shaft off? To take the adapter off to replace seals it looks like all that I have to do is to take oil filter off and then the bolt (what size is bolt?) is this right?

Thanks for the help Brent

[CareyWeber]

Originally posted by bdv:
Looks like lines have been leaking for sometime. Having looking under engine and read through postings, (after having ordered parts now thinking I should have gone with other then OEM supplier) have question about how to replace lines. Have received new OEM lines as well has O-rings for lines. I am not sure where O-rings go because I asked supplier to send any seals necessary to replace lines. Looks like oil lines have quick-connect at block end. How do these come off and go back on? Do I need special tools? Also have seals for filter adapter (oil leaking from bolt) does the drive shaft for front wheels (4x4) have to come off to replace oil lines and/or adapter seals? If so how hard any tricks to taking drive shaft off? To take the adapter off to replace seals it looks like all that I have to do is to take oil filter off and then the bolt (what size is bolt?) is this right?

Thanks for the help Brent Brent,

There is a wire clip (U type) that you remove to release hoses from the block fittings.

Yes you need to remove the front drive shaft.

The oil filter adapter bolt is IIRC 30mm. Before you remove the adapter make sure that you have three different O-rings for the adapter.

Morepower did a great article on fixing the oil cooler lines while they are still on the truck. I would do that before I ever put new factory lines on my 6.5TD.

If I find the link to it I'll post it.
http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=006639

Maybe Morepower can fix the article link, but here is a thread about it.

If you do it Morepowers way you might be able to take the new lines back and get your money back.

Carey

[ 12-01-2004, 06:25 PM: Message edited by: CareyWeber ]

[DA BIG ONE]

I went with the Amsoil lines, they have silicone covers at the end to protect against the exhaust heat where the hoses go into the block.

I think a good addition to our oil systems is an oil accumulator in case of line/cooler failure.

A little off topic;

I just finished installing the bypass system, it was a PITA (I am by no means a pro) because for some reason "still unknown" the extension bracket was too short. I bolted the unit w/filters to the floor instead.

The hoses are another story, routing them so they do not contact the exhaust, then finding a way to protect them from radiant heat, contact w/driveshaft, and abrasion at contact point with chassis. Excellent design, but I would need more hands on to really master install.

[Arlie]

Whatever you do, DO NOT REUSE THE QUICK DISCONNECT FITTINGS.
Many of these engines have died a sudden death due to these fittings failing (mine included). They pop off and you WILL NOT know it until terminal damage is done due to loss of oil.
Search this forum and you'll see reports of this.

As far as I'm concerned it's criminal that GM has done nothing to remedy this and keeps selling the same parts, engines keep dying... :mad:
Mine also leaked a bit before failing while my wife was driving. Wish I'd have known what I know now.

[DA BIG ONE]

As for the radiant heat issue, I removed the crossover pipe cleaned it up and coated with high heat silicone, then wrapped it w/3layers of header wrap on the down side from the pipe flange to the turn on the drivers side, then sealed it w/more high heat silicone. The silicone stunk real bad during the cure, but end result is I can hold the pipe w/o getting burnt, so oil lines are safe for now.

I am thinking of flowmasters crossover, then ceramic coating it w/header wrap is my next project.

[bdv]

Thanks for the help, it will be nice to get the lines fixed and the adapter sealed. Thanks again Brent.