Low-Cost Mods

[PiRSqrd]

Hello All,
I have a 98 K35000 with 86K on it. I am looking for low cost performance mods that are available out there. I bought the truck last July, and replaced the air/oil filters with K&N, and switched to synthetic oil. Would like to add more perfomance mods preferably under $200. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Dvldog8793]

Opening up the air intake system is free(just elbow grease) Opening up the exhaust can be cheap and will probably be the biggest improvement. Replace the factory downpipe with an un-dented one. IMHO, the K-N oil filter is a money trap, Wix makes a real good filter that can be had for allot less. Some members have built cheap boost level adjusters, other wise I think JK has one for less than $200. Most anything else is going to start costing real money. Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[HANK1948]

I'd eliminate the vacuum pump and replace the vacuum diaphragm wastegate controller and replace it with a mechanical controller from KD... That'll allow you to set up the boost level with the turn of a nut. If you don't already have one a boost and egt gauge would help with this upgrade just so you know where you're at but then you're goin' over your $200 limit...

[Cowracer]

Might as well ask for a map to the Holy Grail.

There isnt a whole lot of mods available for under $200 on the 6.5 and even with the ones there are, you'll get your moneys worth.

Modding a truck involves 3 simple-sounding, iterwoven concepts.

Get air in and out.
Get fuel in.
Get heat out.

Anything to help move air will help. A new exhaust (or at least a downpipe) will show great results, as well as sounding cool. But a complete exhaust cant be had for under $200 unless you are willing to modify a Duramax take-off exhaust.

While some doubt the K&N filters ability to filter, they sure do flow pretty good. If you have a "s" engine, opening up the intake plenum will help for very little cost. Higher boost is available in the stock truck by a variety of cheap means, either a boost fooler, or a turbo-master. Be aware that the stock programming of the ECM will have a problem with too high of boost.

You didn't say what year your truck is (ON EDIT~ HE DID SAY WHAT YEAR HIS TRUCK IS), but if its newer than '94 then getting more fuel in will involve getting a chip. Some replace the FSD resistor, and it has a marginal benefit, but it requires doing a TDC learn to take effect. Pre '94 trucks had a mechanical fuel pump which can be "turned up" conventionally.

But making all that power comes at a price. You have the keep the old mill cool. After '98 that is not really a problem, but before then, there were some issues with the cooling system. The good news is the the 98 system will retro-fit onto older trucks without too much pain. The bad news is that it costs a bit to do that.

But, take it from someone who live through this: Take your first $200 and get a guage package. Boost, and Pyro are an absolute MUST. You run the risk of destroying your engine if you start modding it, and cant keep tabs on whats going on under the hood.

Tim

[16gaSxS]

I think Cow Racer and others covered most of it. Some guys claim they have got DuraBux exhaustes that from shops that have added after market to the DBux trucks for very little cash and have put them on a 6.5TD truck with success. The Down pipe is a big restriction as mentioned earlier that needs to be changed. Check Kennedy Diesel Website for a few intake and other helpfull tips on the 6.5. The other exhauset restriction is the soot trap or as some folks call it the Cat. They don't start out restrictive but get that way over time, different people have solved this in differing ways. Poke around with the search mode using "cat" and you will get a number of threads on this issue. Gauges are MUST have is you add power by changing the enigne and injection pump dynamics such as performance ECM reflash. If you simply clean up the intake and exhaust and don't change the stock timing and fueling and don't tow much you may get away without gauges. If you tow heavy up long grades then gauges should be added because even stock programing can cause problems.

You should remove the top of the fan shroud and the top to radiator brackets so you can tip the radiator back and clean the area between the raditor and A/C condensor, this are collects a lot of trash like bugs, weeds ect. This will help your truck stay cool this coming summer.

You should have "P" engine so you have no need to clean out the intake manifold.

[HammerWerf]

Add the gauges !!!

I have noticed that with the gauges, I can get up the hills here in So. Calif quicker than before I Had them. Heat control is better, since I can control the exhaust temp, the coolant temp stays out of the red zone.

CT may not have some of the big hills like out west, but some of the grades are long, then there is still NY and PA to contend with on your way to the rendezvous.

I put my thermocouple in the left side of the crossover pipe, near the manifold. This gives me a good view of what the engine is expirencing.

HammerWerf

[sturgeon-phish]

An inexpensive mod I did (<$20) helped get air in. I replaced the turn signal housings with a piece of aluminum with holes in it from a computer cabinet. I made a bracket and mounted aftermarket turn signals behind the screen. There are pic's and posts a while back. The air comes in now into the fender opening more directly. This improvement lower temps and increased fuel milage.
If you can't replace the exhaust, remove the material from the catylic converter. Cheap mod, if you can salvage the DP to cat gasket < $10. Remove the cat, pound out the material, then replace the cat. I still have my old one behind the garage as I "forgot" to put it on when I did spring for an exhaust.
Jim