Turbo 6.2 build questions

[83Blzr62]

I am building a 6.2 for my truck and I just want to have an engine that will last a long time and have at least the pep of a 350 so I can go faster than 35 up a long steep hill. I care most about engine durability, but also want some power. I have done research and was thinking the banks would be perfect, and I would also get the 97 cooling mods, stud girdle kit, and timing gears. But I was wondering if I could get a better turbo for more power and not have to go with lower compression? Also, What would be a good turbo besides the banks one? I will not be doing any pulling, just offroading and rock crawling so big power doesn't matter.
Thanks,
Kyle

[More Power]

The '97 cooling mods won't work for you cuz it's for the serpentine belt-driven CCW water pump. You can however, install a Peninsular (http://www.peninsularengine.com) hi-cap 100+ GPM V-belt water pump. A single hi-flow t-stat seems to be fine with that one.

Personally, I'd install the DSG dual-idler gear drive timing set and freshen the fuel injection system. This combo will likely wake up the engine in ways that might make you wanting a turbo a little less. A new 3" dual exhaust with free-flowing mufflers and a Dr. Lee intake system would also be a big help. I'd not do the turbo unless you're planning to tow a fair amount or want to run at extra-legal speeds on the interstate. :)

Jim

[wthif]

I'd not do the turbo unless you're planning to tow a fair amount or want to run at extra-legal speeds on the interstate. :)


...but they sound cool. :D and if it sounds cool it better go fast.

[83Blzr62]

I was going to convert to serpentine but if it is not worth it I will not. I drive to payson every so often and there are really long and steep hills that really slow me down to about 35 in a 75. It is kind of embarrasing. I have a new injection pump from accurate diesel that is built with db2 internals. I also have turbo injectors. They help but I get high exhaust temps on those hills and I turned the injection pump down alot. There is now no black smoke but i still get high egts. But if I will be able to go at least 75 up a few mile long 7% grade mountain with out a turbo then I might consider it.

[wthif]

Did you ever have your timing checked or set? Also do you know what kind of gearing the blazer has?

[83Blzr62]

No, i am pretty sure the timming is retarded some but I can't justify spending 200 dollars to have a mechanic set the timing on my engine, but I mainly think that it is my engine. It burns about a quart of oil every 100 miles. It is so bad that you can smell the oil in the exhaust even though I run biodiesel. Will a turbo really effect engine durability that much. Oh yeah, my gearing is 3.42, and I have 32 inch tires that are smaller than some 31's I have seen.

[snoman87]

One thing you could do to help yourself out alot on those hills is to regear. with 32's the proper gearing would be 3.73's

[wthif]

No, i am pretty sure the timming is retarded some but I can't justify spending 200 dollars to have a mechanic set the timing on my engine, but I mainly think that it is my engine. It burns about a quart of oil every 100 miles.

Having the engine correctly timed will help, but if you are burning a quart of oil every 100 miles you have other problems and I wouldn't ad a turbo if I were you. That much oil consumption sounds like a worn out engine to me. Are you getting a bunch of blow-by when you take off your oil cap?

Gearing would also help, but I would spend the money on the engine not the gears.

[83Blzr62]

Yeah the engine is very worn with blow by that contiunes a while after the engine is still off. I guess I did not make it clear that I am puting this turbo on a new engine that I am building. I figured mine will last until this summer so that is when I plan on puting in my new one. I guess what I really want to know is how long will my new 6.2 last with a turbo if it is built with timing gears(and overall timing being set correctly), stud girde kit, high flow oil pump, at least the peninsular water pump, and some kind of turbo. I know with regular oil changes and normal maintence an NA 6.2 can last to 500,000. Will a small turbo like the banks wear the engine quicker? And is there a better turbo for low rpm rock crawling that would not produce too much boost at higher rpm?

[NH2112]

I recently put a 99 6.5TD w/mechanical IP in my 85C1500 and the low-end torque is incredible. Even with 2.73s I can start off in 3rd gear without slipping the clutch or raising rpm much above 800 or so. I'd definitely go with the stud girdle and timing gear set if I were you, and if I hadn't installed the 6.5 in a hurry while out of work I'd have done both of them too. if you have AC you'll have fitment issues, and if a 4x4 is anything like my 2WD you'll probably have to notch the frame a bit to fit a 3" exhaust (I haven't done this yet but will when it's nice enough to bike to work.)

[wthif]

I guess I did not make it clear that I am puting this turbo on a new engine that I am building.

Sorry I lost track of what the post was about.


I guess what I really want to know is how long will my new 6.2 last with a turbo if it is built with timing gears(and overall timing being set correctly), stud girde kit, high flow oil pump, at least the peninsular water pump, and some kind of turbo. I know with regular oil changes and normal maintence an NA 6.2 can last to 500,000. Will a small turbo like the banks wear the engine quicker? And is there a better turbo for low rpm rock crawling that would not produce too much boost at higher rpm?

I can

[83Blzr62]

Also you will be able to take those hills at 70+mph. :)

I can't wait to get my engine done and have that kind of power. I guess I'll have to get a turbo now.

Anyone know about how it will effect engine longevity? Is there a difference between the banks turbo and the factory 6.5 turbo?

[poolmike]

As long as you watch your gauges and keep things in check, it should hold up well.

As far as 6.5 turbo parts on the 6.2... hopefully someone here can help with that. I tried the exhaust manifolds on my stock 6.2 heads but thet didn't clear the injectors on the passenger side, or the firewall in my Jeep application. I'm having some headers fabbed up.

[TB1]

The injector problem with putting a 6.5 turbo on a 6.2 is a easily fixed problem, get the short van injectors or make a template from the exhaust manifold and transfer it to a piece of 1/2" plate and make some spacers to go between the manifold and the head it works fine it's that way on my truck and there is no problems. This would be the cheapest way of doing it. The biggest problem I had was making the turbo clear the A/C housing if you don't have A/C no problem. It would be cheaper to piece together a system from a 6.5 than buying the banks kit. All that is really needed for the 6.5 set up is the turbo manifold, turbo, oil feed line and the intake manifold you can even get away with just using the top half of the 6.5 manifold and bolt it to a J code intake. Make your own down pipe and crossover and your on your way

[83Blzr62]

The biggest problem I had was making the turbo clear the A/C housing if you don't have A/C no problem.

How did you get it to clear the A/C? Do you have anypics? I have a 1 inch body lift, will that help the turbo and exhaust clear the frame and A/C? I just got a whole turbo kit that came with headers, intake, egr valve, oil lines,gaskets and turbo with rebuild/ 1 year warratny for 713.00. :) Also is it worth it to go to the '97 cooling mods if I am not going to tow anything? I can get a whole serpentine setup for 150.00. How do you hook up the wastegate? I will start taking pics of the build and maybe make a write up. It is going to be a while before it is done.

[TB1]

this is a link to all the pictures I took of the turbo install


http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2123257034

[83Blzr62]

So did you just get rid of the A/C? How much room needs to made with the a/c system?

[TB1]

Hi the A/C on my truck did not work to start with so I just modified the housing to clear the turbo. I have heard you can take a housing from a S10 pickup and modify it to work it swings to the passenger side instead of the driver side.if you were to leave it the way it is stock half the turbo would be inside the box it just won't work. Hope this is some help.

[83Blzr62]

I see in your pics that you don't have the vacuum wastegate anymore. How does that spring work? Did you just disable the wastegate or is that how it is supposed to work( I don't know how one does)?

[TB1]

It is a homemade turbo master. I can crank up on the nut to increase the the spring tension on the waste gate and there fore more boost it is set at 10 PSI just to keep everything happy. It cost under ten bucks to make and saved me about a hundred by not buying it.

[83Blzr62]

That spring idea is a good idea, i might have to steal it. I like how it is easy to turn up the boost and it will stay that way and that it is cheap.

[83Blzr62]

Does anyone know what boost I can get out of a gm-4 turbo? If I can get higher boost I might go with slightly lower compression, like 19:1.

[TB1]

my setup is from a 93 and when First installed my boost controller it would get up to 15 PSI no problem and keep going so I backed the nut off to keep it around 10 to much boost and fuel means to much heat and then you will need a inter cooler.

[83Blzr62]

Do you know the a/r ratio for the gm-4 turbo?

thanks,
Kyle