How to replace the front hub on a K3500

[c5dura]

Gmpartsdirect finally got back to me on the correct part number for the front hub on my 2002.

Browsing their online catalog shows that the part is 15056760. The dealer told me A9059060 (they looked it up on vin).

Well, the word from gmpartsdirect customer care (using my VIN) is that the original part number was 89059060 but has now been replaced with 15225753.

Lo and behold, 15225753 does indeed pull up in their system. However, it is a special order item, but the price is $145.46 which I think is quite reasonable since it includes the wheel speed sensor and 8 studs.

I'll pick up a new axle nut as I understand that should always be replaced. Other than that, is there much to this job?

I'm thinking it goes something like this:

1. Lift truck
2. Remove wheel/tire
3. Remove hub extension (only applicable on 3500 dually)
4. Remove brake caliber
5. Undo axle nut
6. Undo 4 knuckle bolts and remove hub
7. Reverse procedure with new hub using the torque values below

Hub nut: 177 ft. lbs.
Hub extension nuts: 96 ft. lbs.
Hub to knuckle bolts: 133 ft. lbs.
Brake caliper mounting bolts: 80 ft. lbs.

Does that sound about right?

[cowboywildbill]

I think You might have to r&r the rotor from the hub by knocking the studs out and reinstall them. But I'm not sure, I haven't done one yet but let me know how it goes, I have to replace rotors soon on our 3500. How many miles do you have on your truck? I have heard of a just a few people with front bearing assembly's going bad. Did it make a lot of noise? I guess it could be hard to hear with windows up and heater going. Good luck.

[c5dura]

The new hub comes with new studs, so I think you're right about having to knock out the old ones.

I have 51k on the truck. My truck is VERY noisy. At speeds above 50 mph or so, it drowns out the engine. Windows up/down and A/C running makes no difference at all.

Noise is there when going straight and when turning right. It goes away completely when turning/banking left.

I have not been able to detect any play in either front hub from rocking the tires when on a lift, but I can't think of what else it could be. 4x4 on or off doesn't make a difference, nor does rotating the tires, so that pretty much leaves just the hubs.

[madmatt]

Have you been able to determine which one it is? If I had to guess I'd say it's the left.

[c5dura]

I have not yet been able to determine which side it is, but I'm actually beginning to lean towards it being the right side now a that would be the side all the weight is pushed against when making a left turn.

Once I get the new hub, I'll put the truck on the lift again. I'm hoping the driving I've done over the last month has finally added some play somewhere. The noise sure has gotten louder, especially at lower speeds.

Fortunately it's the same part number for both sides, so if it doesn't work at first, I can always try the other side.

Come to think of it, the dealer did turn my front rotors twice under warranty due to vibrations when breaking. I wonder if they could have screwed something up in the process?

[c5dura]

I finally got around to replacing the right front hub this weekend and that solved the problem. Here is a pic of the old hub.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/hub.jpg

There was no play in it, but when you turn it by hand, its rather noisy as if its completely dry inside. The new one was nice and smooth and quiet in comparison. It also came with the studs and brake sensor already installed.

Everything came apart real easy except for the hub extension that the goones at the dealership had put on real tight after they turned my rotors under warranty.

I found that removing the entire brake assembly was the easiest way to pull the rotors. In other words, just undoing the caliber brackets and pulling the entire assembly aside.

Truck runs nice and quiet once again!

[ 02-01-2006, 04:22 AM: Message edited by: c5dura ]

[beeler]

Did the noise seem worse when braking? My rig has a noise that I'll call a growl for lack of a better word under braking. It doesn't act like a warped rotor as there is no vibration and not much noise when braking at higher speeds. It's at 40-50 mph and less that it really talks. Sounds like it has open tread mud tires. Let off the brake and it instantly goes away. Like you I've checked everything in the front end and all seems well.

[madmatt]

I'd say you've got rusty rear rotors.

[c5dura]

Breaking had zero effect on the noise level for me beeler. I think madmatt is right if you have no vibration and don't notice a change when turning.

Btw, my dealer didn't even stock the axle nut but had to order it for me. I told them that replacing it needs to be done anything you take off the old one, but they had not heard that one before and I think mine was the first one they had ordered. In a way I'm glad to be out of warranty and now do my own work!

[beeler]

Hmmm, the triple R syndrome. Thanks guys, I'll have to check that out. Not sure if it makes sense or not. The problem was much worse with some 265 tires that were wearing poorly. Back to 245 Michelins and it almost went away completely. Now it is gradually coming back.

If it is the rusty rotors, what is the cure? Is turning them the answer or do they need to be replaced?

[madmatt]

the factory rotors usually have plenty of meat on them to turn. They're too damn high to replace if you don't have to.

[beeler]

Just an update on what proved to be my problem. Last week it started getting bad enough that you could hear it just going down the road. Soon turned into a vibration that had to be fixed. Found that one side of the the cross on the rear u joint was dry and ugly. Ends on the other cross were like new. The problem had been there to some degree for months before it got really bad. A new joint and it's almost like having a new rig. It's quieter and smoother than it has been in a long time.