A Bunch Of Unnecessary Expense

[ZZ]

I'm blowing between $400 to $500 due to stupidity. Just thought I'd give you guys a heads up.

I shorted the leads to the low pressure switch on my A/C last summer because the compressor clutch got too weak to pull itself in. It is aggravating having to pull over and bump the clutch. Evidently, the freon & oil leaked out after cold weather settled in. I forgot that I did this and ran the defroster on a rainy day last week on a 50 mile round trip. Needless to say that the compressor locked up and the pulley bearing overheated.

It sets today in the repair shop getting a complete flush, a rebuilt compressor, new accumulator, low ressure switch and orfice.

It looks like after 45 years that I'd be smarter than this. :mad:

[Warren96]

This sounds like something that I would have tried,given the oportunity. By sharing this with us maybe someone else can avoid this beartrap.Thank you.

[ZZ]

My expensive lesson wound up costing me $426.29 for parts & labor today.

At least I shouldn't have to worry about it come spring. The said they did a leak check on it.

I planned on changing the compressor this spring. I put a new hose assembly & accumulator on it last summer.

[a5150nut]

ZZ, arn't you a little young for "old timers disease" to be setting in? :eek:

[ZZ]

That's what I thought, but I seem to be falling apart on a lot things lately.

[stingthieves]

Your in for a wonderful long ride still!! And it just gets better from here. I never used to sit on the edge of the bed and cry either!!! ;>) Rick

[ZZ]

Here's an update to my A/C woes.

The rebuilt R4 compressor that I bought from O'Reilley's three weeks ago failed in the past couple of days. I had the hood up when I started it Friday. I noticed that the compressor was running. I knew that I had it all turned off. I pulled the plug on the compressor and it continued to be locked-in. I shut the engine down and the clutch for some reason was locked-in tight. I couldn't break it loose from the pulley with a screwdriver.

I took it back to O'Reilly's and they said the warranty would replace the compressor, but they wasn't sure about the labor. The store manager said that he would file a labor claim after I have it changed out, and all I can do is cross my fingers. Surely, since I had it changed in a shop and put in a new dryer and orfice and had it flushed about three weeks ago; they should honor the claim. I wish now I would've bought a new one instead of a rebuilt one. :mad:

I'll soon find out. It goes back in the shop in the morning. :rolleyes:

[john8662]

You'll be lucky to get the associated o-rings, 134a refrigerant, and the compressor out of them at once, I've never seen them re-imburse someone for labor on a part.

Bummer though, I like o-reilly's parts (leaps and bounds better than Autozone).

[ZZ]

I agree. O'Reilley parts are usually a lot better quality than AutoZone. I'm sure I'll stay with them even if I don't get reimbursed.

I wish we could get an Advance store here and get some real competition going.

I do have a friend who bought a complete Ford 351 engine from AutoZone and it started knocking within 300 miles. They had to replace it twice and they paid the full labor costs, and they even covered the oil & antifreeze both times.

[doncannon]

yes, I agree they should pay for the labor. Competition is always better. You get more and usually lowers the prices.

Don

[BC Clark]

Bad news on the competition front, at least from mainstream auto parts stores. Four Seasons owns Murray, Factory Air, and Everco. It is in turn owned by Standard Motor Parts. You will get one of these brands regardless of whether it's O'Reilly, Autozone, Pep Boys, or whatever. They are not rebuilt with bad components, they are just not picky about the condition of the cores and wear surfaces are frequently oversize. Part of their warranty is the insistence that you also replace the receiver/dryer and orifice tube (good idea anyway). Some alternate choices are AirPro web page (http://www.airproair.com/index.html) who I have had good service from and APCO at ACSource.com. There is always a new Delco/Delphi replacement. The problem with a bad part and a good warranty is that you must still break the system and recover the refrigerant.

[ZZ]

I did change everything you suggested on the 1st replacement three weeks ago. It is all on the service receipt.

The same shop replaced the compressor today. They flushed the system and used new oil & freon again today. I had to spend $140 today on the labor, freon & oil.

I'm going to get the O'Reilley manager to file the labor claim next week. He left today for a training seminar the rest of the week in Kansas City.

[arveetek]

I installed a reman Four Seasons A6 compressor a couple of years ago. I've had problems with the clutch ever since. Instead of locking up completely, mine keeps slipping. I replaced the clutch twice, and then ordered a replacement compressor, but the second compressor had a bent clutch that was worse than the original, so I sent it back. Part of the problem is the packaging the compressor comes in....it's too weak to fully protect the compressor, and it gets banged around on the front end, damaging the clutch.

So far this latest clutch seems to be holding....I just wish now I had sprung for a better quality compressor.

It probably doesn't help that 134A runs a bit higher pressure, too.

Casey

[ZZ]

I don't know how the clutches have a chance, and especially during cold weather as much as they cycle. I got my truck back yesterday. I raised the hood after I got home and turned on the defroster. The compressor was cycling about every 10 seconds. I was glad I wasn't on another long rainy trip.

[BC Clark]

This is one of the problems with R134a conversions. R12 cycling clutch systems have the low pressure switch set to cut off at about 24psi. This is about 20 degrees in a properly operating R12 sysem. This same point in 134 is about 19 psi. There are 134a low pressure switches available or the one you have may be adjustable(look for a small screw in the middle). Hange a guage set on it and adjust it down, don't go below 15psi. This will also give you a little better performance when you need a/c. The new systems use varaible displacement compressors and rarely cycle anymore (they also put out amazingly cold air sitting at a stop light). Air gap is critical on clutches and I got a missadjusted one from Autozone (Factory Air). 0.02-0.04 for R4 clutches, .015 to .025 for HR6s, and .022 to .057 for you old A6 guys (mine was over .125!). 134a uses approximately 10% more energy but this is at the high end and really shouldn't affect your clutch life unless you start slipping.

[ZZ]

Thanks BC. Do you have a part number for the adjustable pressure switch? I looked on the big parts store's sites, and all they show is different switches with color codes. Those little bugars aren't cheap either.

[BC Clark]

Autozone lists them as "A/C Clutch Cycling Switch" and has both R12 and R134a units for 11.99. Something else I've found is Arizona Mobile (www.ackits.com) sells a combination Low/High pressure cut off that goes on your high side fitting. Legally the EPA requires a high pressure cut-off switch be added to R134a conversions whose compressors have only a pressure relief valve (most of us). This unit does that but has a 28psi low cut-off too that would protect your system by requiring the non-operating pressure to be at least 28psi (remember this is high side). It combines the switch with the R134a quick connect fitting. They are more; $20 or $30 depending on your high-side fitting size. This to me would have the greatest potential for eliminating the rapid cycling when very cold.

[ZZ]

Thanks, I think I'll go the AutoZone 134a switch.