Last post-op update. Hopefully

[2tough2park]

Since my major electrical surgery, nary a problem. Snowed over the weekend(6" here in Fredericksburg) so I drove it to work Monday. Went off without a hitch but the seats are still uncomfortable. It being very cold but oddly enough the alternator light didn't flicker. It has flickered since the operation, but the truck starts and runs ten times better than before. Chalk that up to 1awg starter cable, three additional ground straps, and a larger gauge main power feed. All I have to be wary of now is the tranny(200k miles REAL soon).
So far, so good. Pretty soon I'll be labeling it "reliable" once again.
Needs a new rear main seal.

[GMC Hauler]

Does it run better with the wiring or just start better? I've added some ground braid here and there, used larger charge wires from autozone, ect, ect, but no "one" gage wires anywhere. I haven't touched the starter wire, positive battery crossover wire, or the drivers side battery fo underhood fuse center wire.

What exactly did you upgrade?

[2tough2park]

Heck. It does everything better except pick up women.
It starts better and seems to run a bit more stable. It used to take several seconds to start especially in cold weather. When it was REALLY cold, I'd worry that the starter wouldn't turn over it was so slow. It was in the twenties last night and without plugging it in, it started in less than 5 seconds. The starter spun up like it was 100 degrees outside, no cold weather affect whatsoever. And since it starts quicker, there's been little to no smoke on startup in cold weather. Plus, the glow cycle seems a bit more effective since the plugs get their power from the power lead I replaced so(theoretically) they are hotter per start.
It seems to run better because the gauge needles are more stable. With the new larger main power lead, the voltmeter needle reads higher and loads on the gauge are less dramatic on the readout. Wipers run faster. Lights, wipers, high beams, blower fan on high, used to take the voltmeter almost into the red at idle. Now at idle the needle doesn't drop but a tick mark or two. Throttle response seems a bit crisper. Also, and a big thing, the motor doesn't get lazy like it used to. Look wayyyy back and you'll find an old complaint about my engine randomly running like the timing had been retarded fully. Not any more.
The motor runs consistant and strong.
The work was to replace the cable from the passenger battery to the starter, replace all connectors on positive at passenger's battery, and replace the main power lead from passenger's battery to the firewall junction block. I took the starter off to make the work easier so the starter lugs were cleaned up as well. I also greased all battery connections, added three ground straps(during the troubleshooting process) and relocated three ground straps to one common ground. As I write this, I just returned from the mechanic to get and inspection. Still drives fine. Listening to him beat on the wheel to get it off was funny.
Hope this info helps. If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.

[jspringator]

How did you handle the fuse/fusable link in the cable to the starter?

[2tough2park]

Originally posted by James Springate:
How did you handle the fuse/fusable link in the cable to the starter? There's a fusable link? There ain't no more.
There wasn't one to begin with. The original starter cable was just straight to the starter. The original main power lead was too short and corroded badly. I had to cut it back almost 12 inches to find good wire and it still was corroded. I went ahead and spliced in a new extension to reach the battery. I suppose I'll go to hell because of this setup, but it'll be a fun and reliable ride.

[TTM]

Randee, what was it like taking that starter off? Never taken one off a 6.5 before.

[BUZZ]

I started making new cables last night. I plan to crimp a ring terminal on the fuseable link and tighten on batt. post along with the rest of the cables. Hearing this story motivated me. I cut a nut in half to make a crimp tool.
Buzz

[Mark Rinker]

I'll bet its even better at picking up women - now that it starts... :D

[2tough2park]

You may be right, Mark. Chicks do dig vehicles that run. Thing is, since it's a manly crew cab diesel one ton eight foot bed, I get more looks from guys than chick when I toodle around. Hmm.. Maybe this is the wrong thing to drive.
Taking the starter off actually isn't all that bad. Cool thing is going back to the removable fender liner. You can sneak small wrench in to remove the cables. From underneath, you can easly access the starter bolts. You can also get the front bracket bolt from underneath. Tight, but not impossible. Be ready though! Starter weighs some 20+ pounds and it'll come quick at your head. It takes some wiggling to remove so you can rest it on the torsion bar, etc while you rest your hands. Having the space open makes this work soooo much easier. Oh, and I'd also like to thank General Motors for the block mount starters.

[TTM]

Good tips thanks Randee.....

[a5150nut]

Randy,
Is the Escadril Clup still at Holiday Inn there in Dead Fred? Might be a place to cruis the dooly, just cary some Civil War memrobilia along for a conversation starter.

Ya all got you giger counter out to do some jiger digin? (metal detector looking for suveniors)