Turbo Removal

[Chris611]

I have tried to remove the turbo a couple times with no success. I am almost embarassed because it sounds like most here have with little or no problems. I did get one nut off the bottom. The next one I tried began to round off. Its the one on the front right side as you look at it from the front. I tried twice while changing the injectors and finally had to just change the injectors witout removing the turbo. Any tips you guys can give me on getting the nuts loose on the turbo?

Thanks

[Chad Mac]

You've might have already done this but removing the fender well is a must to be able to get to these bolts properly. Try that if you haven't already.

[MTTwister]

Soaking with PB Blaster can help. There's also the Hot Wax tip - Heat the nut/bolt with a torch to get it warm enough to melt wax. The wax will wick up into the threads. Given the close proximity of some things you don't want "scorched", a little care and finesse would go a long way. Try the penetrating oils first.

[Shad]

Like Chad Mac said I used 3/8" drive with 6 point deep socket w/universial on extension through the fenderwell. I soaked all my hardware in penetrating oil the night before removal. Hope this helps....

[ace58]

Worst case scenario with the rounded nut, you may remove the exhaust manifold/fenderwell if they don't respond to penetrants.

[Chris611]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will have to try those.

Chris

[damork]

Another rust chemical I tried is Kroil - it's used a lot for cleaning guns but really is a penetrating oil that seems to loosen rusty bolts much better than other things I've tried. Most gun cleaning supply places handle it.

As far as the bolts on the turbo, I used a 1/2" drive with long extensions and 6 point sockets. Seems the impact type with universal joints were the only thing that wouldn't break. I broke the 3/8" tools during my first attempt. It was a bit of a challenge, but the only thing I destroyed was the rubber flaps attached to the inner fender wells. The bolts went back with antisieze.

[Turbine Doc]

Kroil if you can find it is one of the best out there, we use it on heat tempered jet engine parts, most times it works there. In addition to penetrant shocking it by tapping the fastener with a brass drift can break up a rust bonded fastener, also while applying steady torque to the nut have a partner solidly tap the beraker bar while trying to loosen the nut the torque plus shocking action can work where all other attempts have failed.