6.5 feet under

[greenbliss]

Odometer said 400783mi when the head gasket seemed to blow. I'm thinking it could even be craked block. I could use any advice, are new motors available? Are rebuilds better? What are the must have options?

[greenbliss]

Are there motors with mechanical fuel pumps?

[chickenhunterbob]

I'm no expert but so far as I know the long block for either mech injection or the 94+ electronic version of 6.5 are interchangabe.

Your previous engine has sure done you well!

[greenbliss]

I didn't see it all. I don't know if that was the original motor.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
If you can leave more info about your truck and intended use it might be helpful. Also you might want to do a search on engine ID as there have been a ton of discusions on that subject. When my block went south I went for a NEW AMG GEP long block as thats what GM would help pay for ;) You definently logged in some seriuose miles! There is also a thread here about converting to mechanical injection. The list of upgrades is endless( to include the ultimate upgrade, Cummins) pretty much depends on how deep you pockets are!
Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[greenbliss]

I used the truck for work, daily driver, might haul a ton or so every now and then. I guess my next step is removing the engine to see whats what. Do I need any specific motor stand?

[Mark Rinker]

A quality heavy-duty stand that can support 600lbs.

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
Awhile ago someone did a thread on engine stands. I think the general rule was "QUALITY" not sticker rating. Some off-shore stands rated for 1000lbs would bend but others seemed OK. I think almost all the USA stands rated for at least 600 were good. I used a shop built stand that would probably support the whole truck. :D
L8r
Conley

[greenbliss]

I'm getting a little more optomistic-Maybee it's just a blown gasket. Should I take the motor out to replace? My pockets are close to rabit ears.

[Mark Rinker]

Oh...and replace the bolts that come with most engine stands with some grade 8 stuff. Won't matter if one of the cheap ones breaks...

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
IMHO-
Pull the engine. For the extra day of labor, you get many benifits. Clean the engine bay, clean the radiator, check/clean EVERYTHING, AND it's just plain easier to work on. Also if you do pull the engine you may as well drop the pan and check your block.
L8r
Conley

[rlvelin]

I second dvldog's humble opinion. When my engine went I pulled one head while the engine was in the truck (just to see the damage sooner). It was such a pain that I set the head back on (really hard to do without smashing your fingers while the engine is in) and pulled the engine before removing the second head. Its definetly worth the extra time to save yourself hours of being draped over the fenders and grille or kneeling on all the nice, soft accessory brackets.

There are many things that can be checked, cleaned up, fixed, or upgraded while the engine is out such as oil cooler lines and fittings, electrical harnesses, radiator/AC condensor area, and just about everything else.

[redbird2]

I pull the engines most of time in my shop for headgaskets my back doesn't like changing heads in the truck. I do leave the engines in if we are doing step vans where you do them from the backside.

[greenbliss]

Thanks for all the replies. I may regret it, but I started pulling stuff out--good break in the weather. I'm not removing the engine at this point. Not sure if I want to keep the rig. Tires are bald, pulls to the right, no sterio, door has trouble closing. The coolant was all rusty colered, maybee a stop leak quik fix? Lots of questions so far. Tomorow I'll go deeper.

[greenbliss]

I removed the head, water in the cylinders 4&5. Don't see any cracks yet. It actually looks pretty good--I think.. There is a dark ring around the top of the cylinders. Is there a way or chemical to get rid of it without refinishing that wont damage the wall? Where the #8 cylinder meats the head, the head has and pitted up. Is that caused by excessive heat? I don't think it's soo bad that i'de replace the head, I'll be coming back to the area when I do some upgrades (Pull the engine and all that) for now Im just replacing the gasket. I think my turbo is shot. Should the fan/turbine be easy to spin? Is it rebuildable?

[greenbliss]

I think the problem was the head pasages between the valves leaking through. I'm replacing the head. Flushed the radiater. Is the orange coolant fluid like rust coler? What I got sticks to everything! Does stop-leak do that?

[greenbliss]

I bought my truc in september of last year. Had 393000mi. First thing was the electrical, replace the cable between the batterries, re-did the connections at the batteries, and ended up replacing the batteries. Next was the PSE, at the last I was driving one way with at least three hours before re-starting my truc. In hot weather I would drive with the hood unlocked to allow more air into the engine compartment. I eventually added a remote PSE. The started bolt fell on the ground, it had sheared off. I took the starter off extracted the bolt tip left in the block then re-intalled the starter using one new bolt. The local dealership only had one. Used the braket on the front of the starter this time. The serpentine belt was worn, so I replace it befor It broke. The old one's now for emergency. Blew a head gasket and droped another starter bolt on the same day.
I left the motor in the truck and have taken all the stuff off. I've cleaned alot of gunk off the motot and all the parts I've taken off. The starter ended up having a bolt tip in the hole that had'nt been extracted, I extracted it. I'll be replacing the Cylinder Head. As I wait for the other one I've removed the radiator and flushed it. Took off all the bugs and debry, cleaned out the cavity. I think the previus owner used stop-leak in the collant. I'll flush the heater core and the engine before re-filling. I removed the transmition pan. Replaced the transmition filter, pan and refilled it. My turbo is hard to spinn so I've ran some tranny fluid in it to eat up some of the gunk that I imagine is there, It's looser now, easyer to spin. I'm replacing the thermostat and the hose from the crossover to the heater core.
Well I figure I'm getting some practice in for when I do pull the engine out to replace the seals, timing chain, collant upgrade, and maybee ingectors. I'm sure Ill think of other things in the meantime.

[Bnave95]

Ok so it's a keeper ;) This poor truck as been abused by the other guy :mad:
Though with that many miles who to say. :confused:
Look's as though your putting time and money into a very worn Eng. But your learning alot :cool:

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

You might want to click on "my profile" & let us know what year, etc. truck you are talking about. It's handy, because you don't have to remember to do it, it shows up at the bottom of all your posts automatically.

What's a PSE? Are you referring to the electronics mounted on the IP? If so, that's virtually always referred to as the FSD (fuel solenoid driver), PMD (pump mounted driver), & a few other things I won't repeat here. ;)

Witn 400K miles & these troubles, hopefully you got it for a fair price. :eek:

Blessings!