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Uncle Wally
11-27-2004, 16:56
Hey guys,

Here's a new one. Tried doing a search and couldn't find anything on this one.

Noticed really strong fuel smell whenever I shut it down. On further inspection, I noticed a lot of fuel in the lifter valley area. I replaced all the fuel lines. Started it up and crawled on top to see if I could notice any fuel. Fuel is pouring out of the bottom of the fuel filter assy. I pulled it back out and unscrewed the ring on the bottom, which I assume is part of the fuel heater. O-ring looked good although it wasn't as pliable as I think it should be. I am going to replace it Monday when the parts store opens up. Any other ideas as to what this could be? Both plastic caps are on tight.

Thanks in advance,
Waldo

norm
11-28-2004, 08:05
I had the same symptoms. Leaking from the bottom of filter assembly. When I removed the assembly to find out what was the matter, I found the heater was leaking out its wiring!! The insulation on the wires was swollen and full of fuel. Go figure... I could not figure out a way to fix it so...$
Anyway, I called the dealer to price a heater to install on my filter bowl, to find out it was the same price as the whole assy, and not stocked. So for $150, I got a complete assy, in stock, and with a ($20) filter (heater,sensor, everything attached). No Leaks smile.gif

tom.mcinerney
11-29-2004, 06:10
I also confirm leaking from the bottom wires, following renewal of the oring with one of a superior composition(fluorosilicon, IIRC. I also noted that a fuel heater element had burst the central heating tube. Both failures noted on the early-style, metal-capped fuel heater.
The later fuel heaters incorporate a plastic cap on the bottom, which seems to seal better.
Try Peninsular Engines and/or Avant Salvage for a replacement fuel conditioner assy. I got one from Avant for a quarter plus shipping. I would specify the newer plastic-capped heater, as both my original and the first used one i got leaked at the base.
When the fuel leaks out, air leaks in...starting can suffer.

Did both your {Waldo, and Norm} OEM conditioners have the metal-capped heater element?
Did you notice a coil spring between the central heater tube and the smaller of the coaxial stainless tubes in the filter assy?
I would like to know if the coil spring (apparently intended to guide the circulation of fuel around the heater tube) was discontinued in the later, plastic-capped-heater equipped fuel conditioner assemblies. I think it was...i think because friction between it and the heater tube caused leakage into the heater tube, allowing a potentially explosive situation to develop when heater activated, particularly following leakage of fuel out of the conditioner, allowing the heater to rise above flashpoint...!

Waldo, your searching should have unearthed some of this....

Uncle Wally
11-29-2004, 09:53
Tom,

I thought it would have too. I'm thinking I read something along these lines before, but that must have been before alot of the forum stuff was lost.

Mine contains the metal capped heater element. (I believe that is the part that goes up from the bottom) I haven't figured out what the other wires that attach to the side do yet. There is also a spring on the inner diameter where the heater came out.

You wouldn't know what year of a heater assy I should order so that I don't get the same one, do you? Or is that an automatic update. A part number would work too, as I have a connection for GM parts at dealer cost.

Thanks,
Waldo

norm
11-29-2004, 15:13
My Chebby dealer gave me (for $147.33) a part number/description: 10226035/FILTER AS 3.890

The orig. assy had the metal bottom on the heater, I think the new had plastic. The old heater did have the coil, but I can't remember if the new one did. Unless there are features specific to your year the assy should be the same and updated. BTW, the wires on the side are for the water sensor.

tom.mcinerney
11-29-2004, 21:04
Waldo
I spoke with Jamie at Avant, requested new enough with plastic heater, he sent complete assembly. I'd assume dealer only sell new Stanadyne component [Stanadyne designed/mfgs the conditioner]. If you have GM connection, try for just the nylon filter screen and the new heater, the remainder is failsafe, i think...but the whole assy may be priced same as the bits. Correction--the "probe" of my original water sensor was corroded through...maybe do want complete unit! A new heater bound to last longer, but Avant's looked OK, and $25 + ship not bad...and Penin may be cheaper.

ED MEEK
03-14-2005, 13:06
to remove the filter assembly, do you have to pull the intake to get to the hose connections? it looks pretty tight.

norm
03-14-2005, 18:46
I did not r/r manifold when changing out my filter assy. I unbolted the filter, removed its bracket, took the front line off the IP and lifted the drain valve off its mount. This allows movement at the filter, and access to the hose clamps.

I also replaced fuel lines up top when doing this. IP supply line had internal cracking and was leaking a bit at the pump. Not much $, while you're there.

ED MEEK
03-15-2005, 20:11
thanks norm, i will try that approach this weekend.

Turbo Al
08-24-2005, 07:41
BTT

scruffydogtoo
09-08-2005, 06:19
I replaced the fuel filter assy, supply and drain lines, reassembled and still have major fuel leak. Will have to go back to square one, remove the intake manifold and perhaps the IP also this time to see what is leaking.

How can I apply pressure to the fuel system once I have the Intake manifold off ? Is there any harm in cranking the engine ?