Air Box

[TJ]

What has anybody done to get rid of the existing air box, or modify it so it works like it should?

Thanks,
TJ

[ace58]

What year is your vehicle? I thought the earlier td trucks had a snorkel in the fender that could be removed, but have not heard of any other air box issues.

[TJ]

My truck is a 98 and has the best one available from the factory. Still, not good enough. I've thought about drilling 2 inch holes around it to allow more air entrance.

[jspringator]

I took the top off and left it off, and went back to a paper filter. I don't know if it helps any, but at least I can hear the turbo now.

[TJ]

Hi James,
Why did you switch to a paper filter after taking the top off?

Thanks,
TJ

[jspringator]

I never had a good comfort level with the K&N as far as cleaning and oiling it, Although on my oil analysis, my silicons were low. I don't think it added any power.

[DennisG01]

I tried taking the top of the air box off, also. No improvement that I could notice (power or mileage). I would think that doing this might actually introduce more hot air?

[Billman]

Dennis

Removing the lid on the airbox does introduce more hot air into the system.

On the upside I saw less vacuum being created.

If you place a vacuum gauge in the intake to the turbo, with the factory airbox you will see 4" of vacuum like I did.

Remove the lid and 3" will be attained.

Both of my tests were done with a K&N filter and boost in the 15psi range. Paper elements will most likely show more vacuum.

I've since thrown all the factory crap out and fabricated all new, much less restrictive ducting & housing.

I really need a digital camera...

[Spindrift]

Billy,

From a performance perspective, what difference do you see between the two vacuum readings?

[Billman]

Vacuum in the air intake is a restriction, period.

Anything that you can do to decrease it will help. Performance will improve.

How much did I see? Can't tell by Ass-Dyno. Honestly, you might not see anything on a real dyno. It might be that small of a gain. But it is part of a total package that will help when working together with other improvements.

When I put my K&N filter in a year ago I didn't see any gain by seat-of-the-pants. What I did notice was that the boost gauge was responding quicker than it had before. That's what really sold me on the aftermarket/hi-flow air filter. I had replaced it one night, then completely forgot about it the next morning when I drove it to work a couple days later. The boost gauge was responding faster than I remember it, and that's when it hit me that the filter was the difference.

I've been told Turbo Diesels use 7 times more air than a naturally aspirated diesel. A performance/Hi-flow filter has got to make a difference.

Lately I have been playing with a vacuum gauge while I was redirecting my CDR into the downpipe. I started fabricating new ducting into the turbo itself and like I said, less vacuum there has to be a better thing.

I really need to take another reading with the new turbo inlet. It's probably down to 2" or better.

Maybe a hood scoop/airbox to pressurize the turbo?

[eracers999]

Billman;
I have had my long 7/8th's hose routed from the cdr to the underside for close to a year, that being said i recently welded in a bung in the 3in str exh and screwed on a egr check valve and hooked it up, when i got 50 mi down the road i checked under the hood only to find small amt's of oil coming out of the dipstick tube and oil fill cap. Got out my knife and cut the breather hose off the check valve, came to the conclusion that the 3in exh was too restrictive for this to work, so i went out and bought 2 10ft sections of 4in from navistar, made my own system from the down pipe back in about 3 hrs. Havent yet got to welding in the bung to hook back up. Love the 4in straight sys, much more pleasant sound, im hoping the vacupan system will work as planned. If you get yours completed before i do please post your results. The breather dumping oil in the intake system is unacceptable. We can do better than that.
Kent

[Billman]

Kent

Check my post 'Crankcase - Pressure & Vacuum' on 8-29-04...

[jspringator]

Was anything wrong with simply routing the CDQ to the underside of the truck with a long 7/8 inch hose, other than emissions? I could do this without welding skills and it may keep heat down.

[eracers999]

James;

Nop, nothing wrong with that at all. Mine has always had blo by at idle only so sittin at a stop light when the wind is just right, you know".

Kent

[DA BIG ONE]

I need a lead for a pre filter for my K&N, K&N does not make one for it, so, maybe panty hose in stead.

[Mike Pope]

Originally posted by DA BIG ONE:
I need a lead for a pre filter for my K&N, K&N does not make one for it, so, maybe panty hose in stead. Outerwears (http://www.outerwears.com)

[Scooby]

I have the one SS Diesel sells. It is a filter & connection pipe with hookup for CDP. It works good for me.

[sturgeon-phish]

If you have the pre-97? with the plate filter, you can inlarge the opening in the transition piece from the fender to the air box from round to the oval shape of the transition piece. A while back I posted pics of replacing the front turn/parking lamps from from blocking the air intake to a mesh screen. This made a big difference in the amount of air going into the fender cavity to air box because before the air into the fender/airbox had to come in via the space around the turn/parking lamp housing.

[Barry Nave]

Jim
Any ideal where the Pic's are.
I cant seem to vision how one can move the lamp housing, allowing more air to fender cavative :confused:

[G. Gearloose]

Originally posted by Jim Sturgeon:
If you have the pre-97? with the plate filter, you can inlarge the opening in the transition piece from the fender to the air box from round to the oval shape of the transition piece. A while back I posted pics of replacing the front turn/parking lamps from from blocking the air intake to a mesh screen. This made a big difference in the amount of air going into the fender cavity to air box because before the air into the fender/airbox had to come in via the space around the turn/parking lamp housing. Yes, and within the airbox, if you strategically build up the outside well with plastic epoxy where it necks down, and let it set, you can get really agressive with the rotory grinder improving the ID's in the airpath.

[sturgeon-phish]

I searched for the post that had the pics and could not find it. I'll try and get some pics this weekend and re-post them. If you look behind the passenger side turn signal lamp you'll see an opening that leads to and elbow that connects to the inner fender opening.

[sturgeon-phish]

Found it:
http://img42.exs.cx/img42/5939/10927.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/4301/cover4.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/890/cover5.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/6305/vent.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/459/vent2.jpg
It was "Has anyone tried this yet"

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Jim Sturgeon:
Found it:
http://img42.exs.cx/img42/5939/10927.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/4301/cover4.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/890/cover5.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/6305/vent.jpg
http://img99.exs.cx/img99/459/vent2.jpg
It was "Has anyone tried this yet" Nice setup for a gas motor, maybe even for the N/A 6.2, but the way the 6.5 diesel air is routed through the passenger fender water splashing into that open area could be a problem.

[Barry Nave]

DA BIG ONE
Think the water would make it up to thr air box?
It's a long travel around the inter fender to the opening of the air box. I'm just street driven. Look's like it would get more cool air.
Not a bad ideal.
Jim
How's it working for you? I have the same park,turn lamp on my 58 F600. Can you see it good through the cover?

[sturgeon-phish]

The holes in the metal is about 3/16 dia. I've been in some driving rain and I've seen no water reaching the air intake behind the screen, a larger opening or mesh may cause a problem. As far as seeing the parking/turn signal lamp illumination, where it is not as bright, it is much better than the smoke lens covers some use. Even in daylight they are visible from ~160 degrees. Ohio State Highway Patrol does not have a problem with them. I would do it again. Really helps, real cheap, < $20.