Tighten screws on FSD?

[curmudge1]

I did a search on above terms, found a couple of mentions. I thought I remembered an article or someone's posting with a link to pictures and/or some more details on this tip?

I changed the fuel filter Sunday (long overdue), and
Got a couple of stalls Wednesday, first one wouldn't start right away (just after fueling up) with a couple of long cranks, then pushed the Blazer to the side in the fuel station, cracked the bleed petcock thingy & it started right up, so I don't know if the cracking or waiting 10 minutes helped. Second stall was in busy slow traffic, shifted into neutral & it restarted right away (whew!).

Searching stalling suggests fuel probs -checked, lift pump works while running so lift pump & OPS (both fairly new) are good. Could be FSD starting to go, from posts, but some suggest tightening some screws, so I need help with this procedure.

Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving, all!.

[tom.mcinerney]

Curm-
Probably the best thread for the purpose is:
http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005199

For extended reading, try:
http://forum.thedieselpage.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=005013

Keep in mind that the OEM FSD/PMD had design weaknesses; persistent QC failures (largely loose transistor mtg screws) were independently discovered by two engineers on different continents. The big problem [FSD/PMD is not worth much without good QC] has probably been solved , as well as the design weakness... see
http://www.thedieselpage.com/reviews/sol-d.htm

That said, note that there's a proceedure of draining , replacing , then bleeding the fuel canister & filter. Sounds like you got it, but might want rule out air-to-fuel leaks before opening the FSD can. As temps drop rubber hoses stiffen (recent cool air opened a coolant leak at a hose clamp on mine).
Also, be careful with the connector if you unplug/move FSD.

[curmudge1]

Thanks for the links, they were EXACTLY what I thought I remembered seeing.

I took a look at the injection pump today while I was changing my oil, and I see it's no simple task (at least for me) to get at it. I'm not that much of a mechanic, but it seems like I would have to remove that large casting on top that goes past the DS4 pump (is that the intake manifold, maybe?). Not what I had in mind as a do-it-myself project.

Unless there's an easier way? I don't have my copy of Jim's R&R guide handy to reference just now, but I'll check it out later.

Looks like the water pump is dripping, so I have to take it in for service to a local shop Monday for THAT, and since they replaced the fuel lines for me a few months ago, I'll have them double check the fuel lines, too.

[JohnC]

Originally posted by curmudge1:
[QBI don't have my copy of Jim's R&R guide handy to reference just now, but I'll check it out later.
[/QB]It's available on line in the reference section.

[curmudge1]

I looked at the R&R guide... so, after the intake manifold is removed, can the PMD be removed from the Injection pump safely, while the pump is still in place? so the transistor nuts could then be tightened.

[ucdavis]

PMD removal w/out removing lower intake- In a word, yes. But it takes a Special Tool you can easily make yourself. The ST solves clearance for one or two of the torx screws holding the PMD to the pump; you need a right angle torx driver (T15?) that is very skinny.
Use an ~8" steel strap 1" or less wide, thickness not too important, and a 1/4" drive torx bit of the correct size. Drill a 1/4" hole near one end of the strap. Grind the torx bit down on the adapter (not the business) end, removing about .25". Put the hole-in-strap over the slighty opened jaws of your vice & tap the shortened torx bit into the hole. You now have a right-angle torx driver that is skinny enough to reach the most inaccesible PMD screws. It takes some patience turining 1/32nd of a rotation at a time, removing & reinserting the torx driver, but it beats removing the lower intake housing (not complicated to do the lower housing; just lotta work) to get the clearance. This leaves your IP in place so no timing issues to adjust later (some methods call for loosening & rotating the IP; not necessary).
You still have to take off the upper intake housing on most vehicles, but that's a breeze (worst part is separating the neoprene intake tubing on units where it has been in place for years; like taking off an old radiator hose).

[gmctd]

That intke hose is RTV'ed to the aluminum - sometimes red, sometimes gray - for leak\seepage proofing.

If necessary to pull it, clean everything with lacquer thinner, re-RTV to seal.

Your choice of color - the gray (for ECM\Sensor use) appears very professional, to me.