CRANKS BUT NO START

[BERT]

I HAVE A 94 SUB ALL STOCK HAS NEW INJECTERS NEW OPS NEW GLOW PLUGS INJ PUMP WAS BENCHED CHECKED AND IS PERFECT HAVE FUEL TO INJ PUMP BUT NOT OUT OF PUMP ALSO NEW PMD WIREING WAS ALL CHECKED HAVE 12 VOLTS TO THE PINK WIRE 5 VOLTS TO THE OPTICAL SENSER ALL WIRE WERE OEM TESTED GOOD IS THERE ANYTHING IM MISSING PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANKS BERT

[ttpost]

i had same problem turned out the computer wasnt sending a signal to the fuel shutoff solenoid.i bypassed and put voltage directly to it,got it running then replaced the computer. could be your solenoid shutoff isnt opening i would check that.

[BERT]

THANK YOU I WILL TRY THAT AND LET YOU KNOW HOW I MADE OUT

[BUZZ]

Bert,
Did you run 12v to fuel shut down sol.? How did you make out?
WE may be on to something here.
Buzz

[rameye]

interesting..

94blue is having a similar problem..

may be worth a check

[markrinker]

Hmmm...might have same problem here.

#1 was starting hard at temps below 15 degrees, regardless if plugged in or not. Suspected bad block heater (no hissing), ordered one from GM.

New glow plugs and glow controller last season. Today cranks fast and long (new batteries this fall) but no signs of any combustion - no white smoke at tailpipe, no occasional firing. Lift pump clattering a LONG time after I stop cranking. (Tank full of fuel...)

Added 400W oil pan magnetic heater in case it was just too cold. After 3 hours on, no change, except it cranks over faster due to warmer oil. Still no sign of any fuel being burned.

What next? Where do I put power to test the fuel shutoff solenoid? If that doesn't solve the problem, I plan to replace the FSD with one of my spares. Any other ideas???

UPDATE: FSD swap did not help. How do I test the fuel shutoff?

[ 01-05-2005, 12:05 PM: Message edited by: Mark Rinker ]

[BUZZ]

MArk, follow the 2 wires from sol. to a connector, usually left side of IP, 2 wire connector. Disconnect and apply 12v +/- and you should hear the valve cycle, click sound. If no click bad sol. Click could be good valve, weak valve, bad sig from PCM, bad ground. Check 12 volts at wire harness conn. with key in run. No 12 volts, blown fuse or bad ign sw.
Any way if valve cycles try to start.
I think
Buzz

[charliepeterson]

Make sure the "fuel sol. fuse" in the under hood fuse box is good. GM wants you to pull this fuse when changing fuel filter to bleed the air out. It's easier to put the truck in gear and hold the key in the start position for this procedure. A bad fuel filter can give you fits too.