Vacume Pump Woes!

[StevesTruck]

Hello,
The vacume pump has just started making a knocking noise, sometimes bad, sometimes not so bad, sounds like a bad bearing. I am still getting boost of around 5 psi, but I guess the pumps toast! I have done a little searching and see the pump is quite expensive, but some have replaced it with a Turbo-Master. Is it that simple? Is the vacume not serving anything else? Is the Turbo Master easy to set up. I was going to take it to the local shop and get a new pump fitted, but now I'm not so sure!
Has anyone any sugestions? Myself and my wallet would realy appreciate it!
Steve

[DChristie]

Just after I bought my '95 I replaced the vacuum pump, in hindsight, I wish I'd put in the TurboMaster.
I wasn't a member of this page then.

I am still not sure I comprehend what the vacuum pump does or doesn't affect. I think there may be some issues with an occasional SES light but there are fixes for that. I have a homemade boostfooler listed in my sig, I'm not sure I did it right, or if there are other factors causing my occasional SES light. I live with it. I've researched the archives and I'm missing something or else I'm overthinkin' it.

Anyway to R/R the pump is about a four hour job from cracking the toolbox, to craking the first beer at quittin' time. I think I paid about 140.00 plus tax for a pump. I won't shell that out again. I'll get the Turbomaster.

On the up side, loosing the vac gives a spot for a second alternator if you want one. I do.

DChristie

[markrinker]

I have removed the vaccum pump entirely from both of my '94 6.5s and run the shorter serpentine belt used in the '93s.

Simple install, set-it-and-forget-it with the TurboMaster. It replaces about 4 common points of failure in the OEM wastegate control system - 1) Pump 2) Solenoid 3) Vaccum lines 3) Vaccum control at wastegate.

[StevesTruck]

Thanks for the info guys.
I have decided to get a new vac pump. Now all I have to do is figure out how to install it!

Steve

[Marty Lau]

Originally posted by StevesTruck:
Thanks for the info guys.
I have decided to get a new vac pump. Now all I have to do is figure out how to install it!

Steve :confused:

[turbovair]

I pulled the upper radiator shroud, the clutch and fan assy, and the alternator. The vacuum pump bolts are accessable thru the holes in the pulley. Use a power steering puller to remove the pulley(if required). Only took about 2-3 hours to do.
Important!
disconnect batteries before unhooking alternator!
Don't install vacuum pump pulley backwards!(dont ask me how I know)

[jan5]

I am also at the point of deciding wether to dump the pump and go manual or start replacing the solenoid. I assume that all the heat and ac controls are other than vacuum,and my basically stock unit will function ok?

[garre1tt]

I am with 16ga SXS and am sorry to hear that you went back to stock.
The manual turbo boost controller would be my number one upgrade after my last 3k trip pulling the trailer. The 97

[StevesTruck]

Yep, I'm still going with the spineless way and replacing the vac pump tomorrow. Not all of the information I got about the Turbo Master was positive. Most was, but I have a wife and daughter in a camper up north who need a tow home and a truck that sounds like a bucket of bolts! I have no more time to investigate.
Thanks for all your help and don't look on me as a failed student, just a flustered one.

Steve

[markrinker]

I did the same thing when faced with a solenoid replacement. Shortly after, the vaccuum pump died and the lines were all brittle. With two trucks times that many points of failure, the decision to order two Turbo-Masters was an easy one.

[StevesTruck]

You make a strong point mark.
Below is a reply I received from John Kennedy when asked about using a Turbo Master:

"If you'd like to do this, that is fine, but I prefer to keep the OE vacuum system operational. It does the best job in my opinion, and the GM pumps last a long time. I have the pumps on my site and will also offer the complete vac harness for the waste gate for $15 with purchase of the pump. Waste gate solenoid is also listed. I put a few drops of air tool oil in the lines at service time to help lubricate things.
You should have boost gauge and pyrometer to monitor temps. Increasing boost will make the ECM unhappy unless you add a chip that wants to see more boost.

John Kennedy
Kennedy Sales and Service
W3351 26 Rd
Loyal WI 54446
Ph 715-255-9433
Fax 715-255-9499
john@kennedydiesel.com
www.kennedydiesel.com" (http://www.kennedydiesel.com)

I don't want to cut my options!!
Steve

[rjschoolcraft]

While it is more costly at time of failure, I also think the vacuum system (with the GM turbos) is the best way to go. You probably read that in the searches you did, though.

This debate has raged on and on. I don't ridicule (at least I don't think I do :eek: ) folks for switching to the TurboMaster so let's don't ridicule him for not going with the herd here.

My opinion... you made the right choice.

[turbovair]

Here in Arizona, when I drive up to higher altitudes, the computer senses the loss of air density and runs my turbo at a couple psi to compensate(level ground, constant speed).Not sure a Turbomaster would afford those benefits.