View Full Version : Make your electric brakes safer
Three years ago I lost my trailer brakes, I blamed the Airstream RV dealer in London Ontario, he blamed the Jordon brake controller (wrongly so) after three new controllers (install by the dealer) I wound up in Columbus Ohio for 10 days, Without brakes again. After talking with Jordan I inserted separate 10 amp inline fuses at each wheel (from Radio Shack) to prove that it was the controller and not the trailer brakes, I then received a FREE 4th Jordan Brake Controller, every thing has been fine since, that is to say the brakes never failed again, or so I thought.
HOWEVER I just repacked the wheel bearings on the trailer and found the original brake problem, when my trusty RV dealer checked the electric brakes 3 years ago he allowed one of the brake wires to intermitantly contact the drum surface shorting out the controllers. Unbenowns to me one of my new fuses blew leaving me with 5 braking wheels instead of 6 (couldnt tell the difference).
Moral of the story is install inline fuses at each wheel for safety.
I canot for the life of me understand why the trailer manufacturers don't install individual fuses or even circuit breakers at each wheel for the purchasers protection.
good luck towing.
Heartbeat Hauler
11-13-2003, 13:34
Good tip! Did you install the fuses up at the pin location (or tongue for TT)or under the trailer?
JP
Letgo
How did you adjust the cable travel on the Jordan so as to only give 1 in. of travel at the controller?
Take a look at my site noted below to see what I did.
Without this mode I was appling the trailer brakes to early.
I installed the inline fuses at the exterior of each wheel, using butt stakon connectors inserting silicon into each stakon before crimping (don't need to use rubber tape) then I used #33 electrical tape, if you can get hold of #88 tape (extream environment) use it. I taped the fuse holder for further protection as water seems to have the ability to migrate any where under air pressure and used ty-wraps to stop the wires vibrating (movement of trailer).
good luck
HowieE making that wheel must have taken a lot of thought (looks good). I wasn't happy with the metal attachment to the brake pedal, so out of 3/16 x 1 1/2 hot role steel I fasioned a U bracket with a 2" extention that extends at right angles to the brake pedal (looks much like the original) this allowed more adjustment on the brake pedal (sliding up and down) it is locked in place with 1/4" through bolt, the extention provided more of a straight pull on the cable that exits the control box, which is mounted on the dash above the right knee, the read out is easily seen and the emergency brake button is within easy reach.
The 1" travel is exceeded by about a 1/4" but that is taken care of by the spring preload, braking is excellent, BUT then I have never had an emergency panic stop, I have been close though.
happy trailering.
jspringator
11-13-2003, 17:02
Could this be the cause of my OL code on my Prodigy? I crimped and heat shrunk each connection after I first got the code. No joy. I think the problem is in the trailer somewhere.
kerry witherspoon
11-13-2003, 17:33
most trailer manufactures run there wiring in the most convienent way for building not on the best way to prevent shorting to ground. Ido all of my own maintenace on my trailer, the first thing i did was remove all the crimp conectors solderd all the conections with heat shrink,put all exposed wires into wiring loom so they cant rub and short. When i took delivery of my f-th wheel trailer i also had the dealer remove the wheels and brake drums so i could inspect them as from the factory my traller was pulled 3400 miles to the dealer. inspecting befor i would take the trailer i had them replace the drum and shoes because of wear and hot spots .The company that delivers the trailers prefers to use the trailer brakes to save there own brakes. we pay for new we should get new.Just my 2 cents worth
arveetek
11-14-2003, 09:25
Yes, most RV manufacturers do a lousy job of running their brake wires. This doesn't help when electric brakes are rather crude and simple to start with.
I have a lot of customers come in complaining of poor braking, and 9 times out of 10, it's a wiring problem. The RV manufacturer will run a wire from the pigtail to the axles on the driver's side, so the left front wheel gets most of the voltage. Then, a wire provided by the axle manufacturer goes across to the other wheel on the passenger side. Usually, this wire is run inside the axle tube. A lot of times that wire chafes and is worn through where the wire enters and exits the axle tube, causing a dead short in the wiring.
Then, the RV manufacturer adds another wire to run to the second axle, and the same for the third, if so equipped. I don't how many times I've seen all those connections come loose or get corroded. I just repaired one this week that had nothing but those quick-connect Scotch locks......talk about bad connections! This customer came in complaining of one wheel locking up. Turns out only one wheel was working, causing that one wheel to try and stop the trailer!
Casey
That is one thing I never considered was the VOLTAGE DROP at each wheel, as stated all I had was wires droping out of the belly pan to each wheel, I plan on purchasing new brake magnets or wheel kits in the USA this winter (price is key factor), I'll do a voltage check at each wheel when doing the installation.
good point arveetec thanks
letsgo
It is cheaper to buy the whole assembly, backer plates, shoes, magnets and all linkage than it is to buy the magnets and shoes at retail.
Ther eare several places in Elkhart Ind that supply the manufactures that you can buy from.
I paid $49.00 and assembly for my 12 x 2 brales.
if you can not find them get back to me and I will look for a name.
HowieE This image is a first for me so here goes. This is the bracket I made for the Jordan brake controller, the measurements are a little different to what I stated previously, anyway this bracket allows better aligment (fewer bends and less wear) in the teflon cable, plus there is greater adjustment in trying to attain the 1" cable movement, I got it down to 1 1/4", the slot of course is to allow the cable to be removed when the trailer is disconnected.
Oh well here goes for a 2nd time.
I just noticed an error the flat stock is 1/8" x 1 3/4" not 1/8" x 3/4"
http://www3.sympatico.ca/seeyabob/bracket.jpg
[ 11-26-2003, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: letsgo ]
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