Winterizing.....

[Tough Guy]

To use RV antifreeze or not?

I have used Antifreeze with my other trailers but I would like to only use it in the sink traps this time...Is this reasonable?

Cheers

[David Utz]

If you blow air thru the system and leave all of the valves open, the only thing I would be concerned about is the water pump. If you can get to your pump to drain it or add some winterizer to it, the rest of the system should be fine. My pump is buried so it's not practical to drain. I just use about four gallons of the winterizer in the fresh water tank and pump until everything is pink. Then I drain and blow out the system so I am covered both ways.

[dickheller]

You may want to check behind your fresh water hookup for a check valve. Remove the screen where you hook the hose and see if you do have a check valve, if so you will want to push in on the valve to drain the water out of that line. I blow my trailer out and add antifreeze to protect my investment.

[arveetek]

I have been winterizing trailers and motorhomes in my RV repair business for years using the blow out method.

Here's my method:

1. Drain fresh water tank.
2. Drain water heater. After water heater has finished draining, reinstall plug.
3. After fresh water tank has finished draining, turn the water pump on until the pump has no more pressure on it. This will remove enough water out of the pump and suction lines to prevent any freezing from harming the pump.
4. With all faucets shut off, add air to the water system through the city water inlet using one of those winterizing valves you can purchase from an RV store (Wal-mart has them too). The water heater will act as an on-board 6 or 10 gallon air tank. This way you won't accidentally apply too much pressure to the system. I typically hold the air chuck on for about 10 seconds.
5. Go inside the trailer, and open the hot side faucet the farthest from the water heater. After the water quits running and you get only air, shut if off and do the same for the cold side. Then move on to the next faucet, toilet, or shower. If necessary, add more air when you run out.
6. When you're all done, pour some RV antifreeze down all the drains to protect the P-traps under the sinks and shower.
7. Don't forget the ice maker or washer/dryer unit if you have one.
8. For added security, remove the water heater plug again in case any extra water is trapped in there.

This seems like a lot of steps, but it's very easy this way. I can winterize a coach in about 15 minutes using this method. It keeps that nasty antifreeze taste out of the water lines, and you don't have to bypass the water heater. Plus, it's much easier to de-winterize in the spring, without having to flush the antifreeze out of the lines.

Hope this helps!

Casey

[Ned]

Tough Guy:
For my peace of mind I drain the fresh water tank and water heater then blowout the system with air. Connect a line to R.V. water pump, pump rv antifreeze through out the system, pour antifreeze down all the drains. I then know I have protected our investment and everything will work when we next use the trailer.
Ned

[arveetek]

Just thought I would add that I have never had any RV come back for a busted water line or anything of that sort when using the blow-out only method.

However, peace of mind is very important, and I still have several customers who insist on pumping antifreeze through the system, and I am more than happy to oblige.

Casey

[letsgo]

Ned is on the right track, having winterized a cottage every second week for 19 years I respect water that is left in pipes to freeze in sub zero weather, no amount of blowing can remove all water droplets, water drops have a habit of migrating and collecting at low spots then freeze and expand (but you know that) in a cottage you have copper pipe that will split, in a trailer you have plastic pipe that expands with the freezing water. The problem is over time that constant expantion of plastic in the same place is being torn apart, and one day it will burst in the middle of summer when its 85F and no ice in the water lines.

Like Ned says blow, then antifreeze, open all drain cocks and fill all traps with the left overs, all it costs is $8 for 2gals antifreeze and 2Hr if your slow like me.

good luck

[tanker]

I think a lot depends on how the lines are run. If you have a big trap, on some older trailers you may wish to do the anti-freeze method. I have a hot water heater bypass, so I drain my water heater first, by also opening the safety valve on to to speed things up a bit, then close the bypass valves, and blow down the other pipes one faucet at a time until all water is gone. Don't forget the tiolet, and showers both inside and some have an optional outside shower. (Note: I would use caution and keep the air pressure at 40psi or less, or blow through your water pressure regulator, you don't need to blow a pipe apart)I also drain my holding tanks, seems there is always some water left in them after I return home after dumping. Last I pour anti-freeze in each trap, sink, tub and tiolet, with the holding tank valves closed. smile.gif

[Mudflap]

I blow out the lines to make sure the city water conection is clear. Then I hook up a hose to my water pump stick the other end in the anti-freeze jug and pump it through the system including flushing the toilet and cycling the hot/cold shower. I dump what's left in the traps and sleep good all winter. The whole thing takes about two hours including sealing up the appliance vents and mothballs for the rodents. In the spring I am ready to roll in about an hour - Dan

[DogDiesel]

I've been using the air thru city water method for years, with one exception.

After all that, and no more fresh water, I have to remove the water filter and leave the cannister off, it won't blow out of that.
Wayne

[autocrosser]

I have found the simplest way is to drain the fresh water tank and the hot water heater. Turn the bypass valve on heater and close the valves to and from the heater so water bypasses it. may also have a drain fitting for the hot water and cold water lines at the lowest point. I would remove thse and drain them and replace them.

Obtain a fitting with a hose barb that will fit the inlet side of the water pump. Put a hose on the fitting and connect to the pump and put the end in a jug of antifreeze. Turn the pump on and open each faucet one at a time including the hort water sides until the antifreeze flows out this includes flushing the toilet.

When summer comes just run fresh water thru the system and you are ready to go.

I have tried the air method but like to just run the antifreeze thru it as I am sure there aren't any pockets of water left to freeze. I can see it when it comes out and know. Also air won't clear the drain lines installed on some as water will settle in them when blowing it out you will have to still remove them after blowing with air.

[Phil Holmen]

I have a set of line drains in the middle of the trailer, I open them and the kitchen sink valves to drain excess water and while doing that I closed my hot water tank bypass, removed cathod rod and open pressure relief. Drain water tank and left it open. I built a "t" with a valve on two sides and the one without the "t" I hooked into the suction side of the water pump. One valve to the water tank, the other valve faces straight up. I then hook a funnel onto the top valve. Close suction to water tank, open upper valve. Fill funnel with RV antifreeze and turn on pump, open one faucet at a time until it is good and pink... go to next until done. After I installed the "t" it only takes me 'bought 20 mins and I am all done.. including removeing both batteries....

[sturgeon-phish]

Winterized yesterday. I use the air blow out and antifreeze method. I made a fitting (<$2) that connects to the city water and with a blow gun pressure up the system and blow each line individually. A complication I have is the previous owner of my trailer re-plumbed and the lines down stream of the hot water tank shut offs/bypass valves has a low spot that does not drain. To clear these, I pressure the system with air any cycle the shut offs to push as much water as possible out. Beats filling the hot water tank with antifreeze.

[IndigoDually]

If You are that offended by the anti-freeze taste I would reccomend the following: Blow out all the water possible, pump anti-freeze through the system, then blow out the anti-freeze. This way only anti-freeze instead of water lays in the low spots. The little bit really doesn't leave much taste.

John

P.S Don't forget to blow out the black water flusher. Mine does hold water.

[schnier]

I have a 2001 Jayco and it has a TEE at the aux pump, so you just stick the hose in the antifreeze jug and hit the pump. It also has the hot water bypass, and low line TEE at the bottom of the camper to drain the lowest point. Do not forget the outside shower head. And last but not least, the pink antifreeze will keep the seals lubricated especially in the toilet, so they do not dry out, and crack next year.