Fusable link for inverter

[DickWells]

Hi Guys: I put a 1000 W inverter into our 25 foot lightweight Sunliner last winter. The instructions call for a 150 amp circuit breaker, or fuse in the positive lead. They said I could get one at any electrical supply house or marine shop, but I've had no luck. One guy at an electrical supply store in Texas said that the circuit breaker would be as expensive as the inverter was, if I could find one!
To this point, I have just left the positive lead dis-connected when I'm not using it. It just goes through the fiber glass wall within a foot or so of the battery, so I could probably leave it connected, but if we had a wreck on the road, then the big number two wire could short out on something and things could get real hot.
Here's what I've been thinking. If one of you electronics guys could tell me what cross section of copper to use right at the battery terminal that would give me melt-away at about 150 amps, then I could just bolt up a strip of it there, insulate it, and if it ever blew, I could just replace it, just like any fusable link. I just don't know the math to figure it out. Anybody out there got the expertise to help me get the right size link?
Thanks, Dick Wells.

[jcummins]

You can get fuses of that type at a CB shop. I help a person install a 150a fuse over the weekend.

[arveetek]

I work with a lot of Xantrex inverters on motorhomes, and most of them use this fuse:

http://www.xantrex.com/products/product.asp?did=187&p=1

It's a 200 amp fuse, though, but it only lists for $62.59 in one of my RV parts books.

I see Xantrex also offers a 175 amp DC breaker. If you keep searching, you should be able to find what you're looking for.

Casey

[diesel65]

Any high-end automotive sound system installer should have these big fuses.
Check out Crutchfield and look for "ANL150 Fuse", these are the style fuse that I use in fleet but they are not gold plated.

[DickWells]

Thanks for the info, fellas. I'll be checking these things out.
GM65: How do you like your Sunline? Ours is a 2000 Advancer Lite 25 footer. We've always liked the trailer. Had a lot of poor assembly issues with it when we first got it. I took care of them all myself. Got a nice return letter back from my complaint to the factory. I couldn't take them up on the offer to stop by the factory and have them go through it for free. We did stop there 1.5 years ago on our way to Florida. Got the BIG tour. We've since bought some inside and outside doors and other stuff from them. They gave us good drop-ship service, and reasonable prices.
I added a chunk to the tongue last fall, so that I can take my Bombardier Traxter everywhere we go. Put on about 15 K towing with it since then, and I'm pretty happy with it. Only issue is the almost 1500 lbs tongue weight, now. The Sub. handles it quite well, but it's up near the limit.
I went from 600 lb. to 1200 lb. dual-cam bars, and I find that I can't quite transfer enough weight to the front of the horse. It handles better with maximum transfer, but I get better stability in heavy rain with one link less take-up at the cams. I had it aqua-plane a couple of times with maximum pull up on the bars, and that gives you a little bit of a thrill.
Pardon my ramblings. Just couldn't help myself, when I saw your profile. Besides, you never know when some of your personal experience can help, or be of interest to someone else.
Dick Wells

[mdrag]

Dick Wells,

Check out WAYTEK WIRE (http://www.waytekwire.com) for a good selection of high Amp circuit breakers and fuse holders/fuses. Here is a link for the HIGH AMP CIRCUIT BREAKERS (http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/215_55). They have circuit breakers in many different Amp ratings, with manual and automatic reset.

I used the 150A waterproof manual trip/manual reset circuit breaker (less than $27.00) as a hidden shut off switch for my liftgate. I installed the breaker in the ground circuit, and hid it up on the frame where I could reach up and turn off the liftgate to prevent unauthorized use. The liftgate 12V power lead also has a factory installed 150A fuse - the same type of fuse holder/fuse used in a high watt car stereo install.

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/items/46980FL.GIF

Waytek also carries HIGH AMP FUSE HOLDERS (http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/catalog/215_52) that will take fuses up to 250A. They list two different fuse holders, about $6 and $11 each. Search their site for the fuses, offered in many Amp ratings.

http://order.waytekwire.com/IMAGES/M37/items/46038FL.GIF

Good luck with your project.

ON EDIT- LINKS FIXED.

[ 06-05-2004, 08:37 PM: Message edited by: mdrag ]

[letsgo]

Your request for a wire size that could melt at 150amps is a no!!! no!!! In order for that wire to melt requires the copper to glow red hot then melt, as the wire melts the separating of the wire will now act like an arc welder with an even higher temperature than the melt down.

Personally I prefer fast blow fuses, the slow blow fuses are only used with circuits that use electric motors, circuit breakers have to think about what to do (should I or shouldnt I trip out) seen that happen many times, also circuit breakers are sensitive to volt, so only select the correct voltage rating.

On UPS (uninterupted power supplies) which all RV systems are, I would put a fast blow fuse link at each positive post for protection.

good luck