Turbo Boost Control Circuit?

[DA BIG ONE]

Ok, I am running a Heath MaxiTorq program, high pop injectors, along with the turbomaster controller, runs fine, but I have an ongoing issue with SES light and code for boost control circuit.

Have 20 vac at pump, line is tight no leaks and it's plugged, have new solenoid connected to harness so SES light should not come on. But, it does!

I then went to a resistor "50 ohm 10 watt" plugged it into boost control circuit where the sloenoid would go, still have the ^&%$%^# SES light and code for boost control circuit.

What should I be looking for to fix this?

[ 08-07-2005, 02:32 AM: Message edited by: DA BIG ONE ]

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
I have a 99 3500. I run the same Heath products as you are and have removed the vac pump and never did anything with the vac solenoid except disconect the vac lines. NEVER had a ses. Do you have a reason to have the vac pump? Have you tried calling Heath? This was a specific question that I asked him and he assured me that I would get NO ses and in 30,000 miles I haven't.
L8r
Conley

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by Dvldog 8793:
Howdy
I have a 99 3500. I run the same Heath products as you are and have removed the vac pump and never did anything with the vac solenoid except disconect the vac lines. NEVER had a ses. Do you have a reason to have the vac pump? Have you tried calling Heath? This was a specific question that I asked him and he assured me that I would get NO ses and in 30,000 miles I haven't.
L8r
Conley I had talked to him a few times, he said vac solenoid should be connected to harness so the comp sees the resistance, this did not help, so, I used the 50 ohm 10 watt resistor in the vac solenoids place w/o any luck.

As for the vac pump, I never got to taken it off but will soon, I think I need a 93 6.4 td belt, but not sure?

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
I have the Goodyear belt number that worked the best for my truck. Is your rig an EGR motor? It would be interesting to hook it up to an active scantool and see exactly what the comp is thinking when it throws the SES. You would think that with the right resistor it should be happy ALL the time.
]L8r
Conley

[Kennedy]

How high do you have the boost adjusted?

Sounds like it may be too high for the program.

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by kennedy:
How high do you have the boost adjusted?

Sounds like it may be too high for the program. 16 lbs post IC w/GM-8, w/pressure drop over IC I am sure pre IC boost is higher, if I drop boost to say 12/14 lbs egt climbs over 1200 deg pre turbo very fast.

[GMC Hauler]

I run the 50 ohm 25 watt resistor with no problem. Can you be more specific with the particular code from the PCM? This will help with the diagnosis. (is it 1656?)

The only thing the PCM looks at is the wastegate current, hence the resistance. It doesn't care about the amount of vacuum.

The belt length is 101 or 102" long. You can take the vacuum pump off in the parking lot, or get the belts and take one back.

I didn't think the Heath PCM sets a high boost code. Would have to verify.

I removed everything, and have had no problems for 10K miles, including the 2500 miles I just traveled in 6 days.

Also, check the resistor and ensure it is good. You could have gotten a bad resistor. Also, the wiring on the solenoid connector has been known to go bad. If the resistor checks out, and you suspect the wiring, you could try to connect the resistor closer to the PCM (like behind the glove box) That would eliminate a bunch of wiring.

[ 08-07-2005, 07:35 PM: Message edited by: GMC Hauler ]

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by GMC Hauler:
I run the 50 ohm 25 watt resistor with no problem. Can you be more specific with the particular code from the PCM? This will help with the diagnosis. (is it 1656?)

The only thing the PCM looks at is the wastegate current, hence the resistance. It doesn't care about the amount of vacuum.

The belt length is 101 or 102" long. You can take the vacuum pump off in the parking lot, or get the belts and take one back.

I didn't think the Heath PCM sets a high boost code. Would have to verify.

I removed everything, and have had no problems for 10K miles, including the 2500 miles I just traveled in 6 days.

Also, check the resistor and ensure it is good. You could have gotten a bad resistor. Also, the wiring on the solenoid connector has been known to go bad. If the resistor checks out, and you suspect the wiring, you could try to connect the resistor closer to the PCM (like behind the glove box) That would eliminate a bunch of wiring. Code is 1656, the truck runs great, but backing off boost will give much higher egt's because I have hi-pop injectors.

I suspect wiring, but can't find any damaged harness. If I knew which wires to splice into at ECM that would help, anyone know?

Yes, I need to get that vac pump out, since it could seize while on a trip causing PITA.

[GMC Hauler]

Service manual says:

The pink wire in the solenoid connector is a 12 volt switched source, fuse ENG1 fuse# 15, 20 amp. the other side of the connector is a yellow wire, this wire goes directly to the PCM, 32 pin blue connector, pin d14. There is a yellow/black wire in the same connecotr. The wire you're looking for is yellow only.

As far as finding 12 volts in the harness to connect the resistor to, it looks as 12 volts goes from the battery to the PCM via the pin next door to the yellow wire, pin D13. It is an orange wire.

This would be my 2 connections.

You won't see the break in the wire. I have heard they typically break near the connector because of the movement. Guys end up taking some wire off and splicing new wire in.

[ 08-08-2005, 07:19 AM: Message edited by: GMC Hauler ]

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by GMC Hauler:
Service manual says:

The pink wire in the solenoid connector is a 12 volt switched source, fuse ENG1 fuse# 15, 20 amp. the other side of the connector is a yellow wire, this wire goes directly to the PCM, 32 pin blue connector, pin d14. There is a yellow/black wire in the same connecotr. The wire you're looking for is yellow only.

As far as finding 12 volts in the harness to connect the resistor to, it looks as 12 volts goes from the battery to the PCM via the pin next door to the yellow wire, pin D13. It is an orange wire.

This would be my 2 connections.

You won't see the break in the wire. I have heard they typically break near the connector because of the movement. Guys end up taking some wire off and splicing new wire in. Thank you, I'll dive into it now!

[GMC Hauler]

Did ya get it fixed????

[DA BIG ONE]

Originally posted by GMC Hauler:
Did ya get it fixed???? Not yet, I am trying to get electrical circuit drawing for my truck (99), and the pins to install idle control switches, waiting for tires so I can measure diameter so I can hack vssb, so I'll be doing them all about the same time.