uh oh the pulling mods have started

[mtomac]

I built a front weight bar that mounts in the 2 front recievers I made where the tow hooks used to be. Holds up to 15 100# or 65# suitcase weights

http://antiquetractorpulling.com/frontweightbar1.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/frontweightbar2.jpg


I made a reciever style pulling hitch for the rear that's vertically adjustable and has a 3.5" hole

http://antiquetractorpulling.com/pullinghitch1.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/pullinghitch2.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/pullinghitch3.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/pullinghitch4.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/pullinghitch5.jpg

I've also ditched the stock shocks and put Rancho RS9000x nine position adjustable shocks on all 4 corners.

http://antiquetractorpulling.com/Rancho9000Xshocks.jpg

Still to come (waiting for ups)
- energy suspension urethane bushings for front end
- a set of stock front tie rods (I'll be replacing the adjustable part with cromoly steel and cryo treat the stock rod ends)

Yet to build/manufacture
- limiting strap for the relay rod between tie rods
- adjustable blocks for the rear end
- bolt on reinforcement from rear receiver to frame

Still needed to buy
- elocker up front (suppose to be released this month)
- 33x12.50x17 TrXus MT tires
- set of ladder bars for the rear

Bidding on ebay for
- a set of 8.5x17" rims (h2 rims)

[ 04-23-2003: Message edited by: Micheal Tomac ]</p>

[JimWilson]

May I ask why? What purpose do those mods serve?

[BobW]

Michael,
Can you give me some details (and/or pics) on how you attached the recievers to the front? I would like to do the same thing for a bike carrier.
Thanks, Bob

[mackin]

Micheal

Was watching Black Jet just to much ?? Good luck ...

MAC :D :D :D

[JMJORDAN]

I used to pull my 95 2500 chevy. I did most of the things you mention. I also made some rear spring clamps. Basicly 8 peices of 5"x 2"x5/8". I drilled 2 17/32" holes in each 3 1/2" center to center centered in peice. I placed them on the at the end off the bottom sping and used 1/2" bolts to clamp th spring pack solidly together. This totaly eliminated wheel hop when used with the aluminum bump stops I made which only allowed 3/4" of travel before contacting rear axle. I did OK with this setup. Never won but had a lot of fun. If my description is to hard to make out I could send you some pics. I would just send you mine but keep thinking about trying to my GMC make weigh! :D
Good Luck have fun!

[WillowCreekStable]

Another candidate for a 12 step program!! :D :D

[mtomac]

I was very excited when the DHRA (Diesel Hot Rod Association) was formed because there was finally an organized diesel truck racing organization. But they only have bracket classed which I can't stand. Also, I would need to spend $3900 to have the ATS stage 1&2 installed before I can add more power to go faster in the 1/4 mile. For a lot less I can set the truck up for pulling and have just as much fun if not more. Maybe I'll park the tractors and pull the truck this summer.

[TN farmer]

Micheal, it looks like you have been busy doing a lot of fabricating, I have got to make a hitch like that. I have some questions but they are power related not set-up. Are you planning on running anything along with your hot juice? I wondered if the tranny could hold more in 1st than it could in higher gears. What about the rpm limiter, people say it will ride the governer in 4HI 1st gear. Robert

[ 04-23-2003: Message edited by: TN farmer ]</p>

[kburati]

BobW,

Simply order a Hidden Hitch front receiver online. They're about $110 shipped, got mine from http://www.accessconnect.com/front_end_hitch_receivers.htm and installed myself. The install's a no brainer if you've got a decent torque wrench, took me less than an hour.

I can now hook up hitch trays and bike racks on the front of the truck when towing.

[Kennedy]

I wouldn't be so sure that there isn't a significant amount of slippage in the transmission in all gears when you start to see 380+ RWHP...

[CPMac632]

I agree with John when the truck is hooked good it probably will slip some. That is why I'm glad I got a six speed. It didn't slip a bit putting 467 down on the dyno yesterday. I'll have to do some more tuning then go looking for that sledpuller guy.

[mtomac]

what mods for the 467?

[CPMac632]

Only programming and an air filter, all else stock. I will have the exhaust and fuel system ready to go by next week I hope.

[mtomac]

whatcha stacking?

[CPMac632]

All Van Aaken stuff. 467hp and 820tq on a truck that dyno'd 250hp and 435tq stock.

[BowTieDmax]

For my front weight bar this year I was lucky enough to have my plow brackets on my truck so all I had to do is put the bracket I made in the two slots and pin it. External wieghts arent alowed in most of the stock classes. So be sure to check the rules for class. I am still waiting on the E-locker for the front too. Not sure what gear to use this year because it sure will ride the rev limiter in 4-hi 1st gear.(BUT THIS WILL BE FASTER THAN 3rd GEAR LOW RANGE) Hopefully I can lock it in secound hi with a tech 2.
Still worried about egt's. I burried the pyo past 1500 degs with the normal juice last year for every pull. So with the hot juice I can see 1400 deg just playing around with out a load. I am tring to hold out for new tires untill the pulling season starts here.
The spring clamps are made and just waiting for the pulls to start.

[mtomac]

I'm running a test hook tomorrow with the truck at the end of our regular tractor pull. I'll have the truck weighed at 7500-8000# with all hanging weights on the front. I've got the limiting straps for the front done in addition to the stuff I mentioned earlier. I plan on running the tranny in 1st gear with the transfer case in high range and the hot juice on L4. I'll set the rancho's on L9 all the way around and have the 285x75x16 BFG AT's on the stock rims set at 65psi. I have a set of 33x12.50x17 TrXus MT's bought and on the way but I haven't decided if I want to put them on a set of 17x8.5 (5.5" backspace) H2 rims or a set of 17x9 (5" backspace) MT Classic II's.

[BowTieDmax]

Micheal,
Make sure you get all the power up on tap then slowly let up on the brake to get moving, then release the brake all the way as soon as possible.
I've seen alot of guys taking off slow so that they dont spin to much. But then they think they are going to floor it and build up boost,power and speed all at once. Then they only fall on there ass and dont do anything. Watching the video of my pulls (make sure someone films your pull)I keep the plate of the sled off the ground for atleast 15-20 ft. This is usally the same distance alot of guys are still tring to be carefull not to spin there tires.

[TN farmer]

How about some pictures of the limiting straps on the front, I have heard of people doing this but a picture would be much easier to understand.

Also what about the spring clamps for the rear :confused:

[mtomac]

I have 2 limiting strap(s) from the center link (GM calls it a relay rod) to the crossmember right below. They help with the excessive toe in problem. The only problem with the straps is you can't turn the steering wheel more than 90 degrees off center in either direction.

pics - copy & paste

http://antiquetractorpulling.com/centerlinkstraps1.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/centerlinkstraps2.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/centerlinkstraps3.jpg

[TN farmer]

Micheal thanks for the pics they are helpful. What about the ring with a 3" inside dia. on the hitch? where did you find this or what did you use?

Are you planning on going to Muncie and pulling your truck in June?

[mtomac]

Most rules require a 3.5" hole. The ring was machined out of a piece of 1.25" thick plate steel.

I plan on going to Muncie June 7-8.

[ 04-30-2003: Message edited by: Micheal Tomac ]</p>

[mtomac]

Here's a couple test-n-tune pulling pics. The first pic I'm weighing 7000# and the second night pic I'm weighing 7500#. I've got trackside video of the first run and in cab telemetry video of the second run. I'll post the video as soon as I can figure out how to get the file size small enough for those w/o cable modems or other fast internet conections.

http://antiquetractorpulling.com/tomacpullingduramax1.jpg
http://antiquetractorpulling.com/tomacpullingduramax2.jpg

[TN farmer]

How are the BFG's doing for traction, is it going to be worth the money to buy another set of tires? Did you have any hop when pulling? Let us know when you get the video we don't start pulling here for another month.

[mtomac]

I spinning the heck out of the 285 BFG's. I might still use them for hard dry tracks though. No hopping or bouncing so far.

[mtomac]

E-locker, urethane bushings and the beefed up tie rods will be going in soon. I still need to make adjustable blocks for the rear end, receiver reinforcements, and maybe some driveshaft loops (just in case)

[dmaxalliTech]

Mike, I am looking forward to putting that stuff in for ya.

[mtomac]

The E-locker came fedex today. I'll bring it and the beefed up tierods to the GTG Tuesday so you can take a look at 'em. I'm just waiting on the urethane bushings and I'll be ready for installation. They were shipped out on the 13th but they're coming from Oklahoma. Hopefully there are fast horses on the wagon train from OK to Michigan.

[Hound]

Any pics or specs on the beefed up tierods? Not lookin to pull with mine but would like something with bigger balljoints and MUCH more durable than stock.

[WhiteDuramax]

Michael,
My buddy and I both pulled our Duramax's yesterday, didnt turn out so well. Both of us started hopping bad. His front tires were toeing in bad, mine were some, more than I would like. We both had blocks between the bumpstops and pad on the axle, I think that was part of the hopping problem and another guy said my hitch was too high, dont know, I had it at 25", so we lowered my buddies before he pulled, but he still hopped. What advice do you have, want to make some changes and try again this weekend. Thanks

[mtomac]

So far I've pulled three times. I did another test hook yesterday. So far I haven't had a bouncing problem but I haven't built the blocks for my rear end yet so I'm still running the stock suspension in the rear with the Rancho RS9000X's set on 9. My hitch is at 25 1/2".

The center link (aka relay rod) staps work very well but yesterday I was running the 33x12.50x17 TrXus MT's on the H2 rims and I got a very slight toe in that I didn't have before. Either one of two things happened. I didn't tighten the straps as much as before or the wider better biting tires require more preload on the center link which means I need to tighten the straps more than I was with the 285x75x16 BFG's.

Right now EGT's are my only problem. Last time I hooked I hit 1500+ for a couple seconds on a pull just under 300'. But yesterday I hit 1500+ for a few more seconds than before but I pulled about 375' which is a bit farther than I would normally pull in competition. I'm looking at running an exhaust cut out before the muffler or putting my straight pipe back on until I get a 4" exhaust.

Video of yesterday's run (copy & paste)

http://www.antiquetractorpulling.com/TomacDuramaxPulling1.mpg

The box was topped out and I was dragging the sled for over 50' until I let off so I wouldn't hit the trees at the end of the track.

[mtomac]

where is the pull this weekend?

what tires and tire pressure are you running?

[ 05-19-2003: Message edited by: Micheal Tomac ]</p>

[CPMac632]

White Duramax the blocks in the rear are a good idea but you need something to eliminate axle wrap to go with them. Whatever you do don't lower your hitch. Michael I have been trying to understand what the strapping of the centerlink helps but I guess I'm too thick headed. I would guess the wider wheels and extra offset is you difference and not the strap.

[mtomac]

As the tires are biting for traction they are trying to pull themselves forward. This movement is pushing the tierods inward which is pushing the center link upward. Worst case senerio is when the center link reaches its max upward movement and it can't move anymore it bends the tierods since they are the weakest link. The straps keep the centerlink preloaded and pulled down and helps eliminate the movement and the toe in.

The best way to see this is jack up the front end so the wheels are just off the ground. Install jack stands (just in case) then roll under the truck, head first on a creeper and with both hands move the center link up/down. You will see the tires toeing in and out as you move the centerlink up and down.

[TN farmer]

Micheal, thanks for the video your front end looked great compared to others I have seen pull.

Can you run a bloked suspension at Muncie or do they require 2" of travel?

I will let you know how my blocks work when we get to pull, our test & tune with the sled was rained out. :mad:

Robert

[WhiteDuramax]

tomac,
I am going to cut down some ratchet straps to fit and take the blocks out. I ran one of my friends 33x12.5's Courser OTD's and they were around 40 psi. My buddy Heinrick, left his alone, I think they were at 60. But, my other friend pulls (Dodge) he ended up getting second with 33x12.5's aired down to 30psi. This weekends pull is at Logan County fairgrounds, if you look on a map it is close to Indian Lake or Lima, OH. I dont think blocks are going to help, none of the pullers around here run blocks on diesels. One good thing, we both beat a Dodge 24v with twins, he did terrible about 150ft.

[WhiteDuramax]

One other thing, my truck didnt toe in as bad as Heinricks and he was runnin 265's. His hitch was lower but it still hopped, none of the other diesels hopped at all, I think its the blocks hitting the rubber bumpstops and bouncing off.

[mtomac]

That's the problem. Unbolt the bumpstops and make the blocks longer and I think your problem will be solved.

What day and time is the pull?
Who is putting it on?
Rules?
Classes?
Is it a Fair with residency restrictions?
Payback?

[ 05-19-2003: Message edited by: Micheal Tomac ]</p>

[WhiteDuramax]

I dont have a lot of information yet, it is May 24&25 10 am. I have a phone # so I am goin to call tommorow and find out more. You should come to our Darke County pulls, we dont run any rules really, 8000lb and 26" hitch height, the rest is pretty much open, usually 50% payback and 20$ entry for most of our Darke count pulls.

[TN farmer]

Here are some schedules I found but I am not sure how many are in your area. Hope this helps. Robert

http://www.enterpriseengine.com/pulls.htm


http://www.truckpulls.com/schedule-2003.htm

[ 05-19-2003: Message edited by: TN farmer ]</p>

[WhiteDuramax]

So far I have found out that they are having 4 diesel classes, 7400# SRW, 8000# DRW/SRW, 8000#open, 7400# pure stock. I tried to call, but didnt get anyone.

[mtomac]

how did the pulls go over Memorial day weekend?

[sdaver]

hey mike just a thought...........but how about some good old air shocks in the front or even air bags.......with some limiting straps.............pump up the bags or shocks till the preset straps are tight...........get done deair.......collect your trophy........ :D dave

[mtomac]

Some places won't let you run air shocks or air bags. I'm not sure if there are airshocks made for the front and rear of our trucks anyway. Some guys run airbags in the back when pulling. My theory is anything with air in it is another potential place for hopping or bouncing to come from when sled pulling.

[WhiteDuramax]

Didnt make it to the pulls up there this past weekend. I wanted to but couldnt find out anymore information about them. Guess we will have to wait till muncie, might pull there. Hopefully we will see ya there.

[TN farmer]

What kind of boost numbers are yall seeing when pulling?

I have hit 31-32# drag racing but this is with the wastegate blocked. Robert

[mtomac]

24 with the ball valve open 27-28 with it almost closed. I havn't closed it all the way yet.

[WhiteDuramax]

I just put a valve on mine today, I was seeing a max of 25 before and with the valve closed I see 31 tops. I think I will just leave it closed.

[CPMac632]

What are you all doing, putting a ball valve in the wastegate actuator line? Be very carefull every turbo that I have seen or heard about blowing up was with the wastegate line plugged. I haven't pulled mine lately so I don't know the boost #'s pulling but I see 31 pounds with the wastegate functioning and 40 with it turnbuckled shut dragracing.

[TN farmer]

I have mine turnbuckeled closed and was thinking that I probaly need to take it off before I pull. Not exactly sure what the limit is but I would think that 40# is getting close.

[mtomac]

so is everyone ready to truckpull, dragrace & dyno in Muncie? Only one week left.

[TN farmer]

I want to go but the nine hour drive has me thinking twice. It will depend on how work goes and if I can line up a trailer and a tow vehicle in case something breaks.

It looks like GM will be well represented.

[WhiteDuramax]

I am defiantely ready to go, the hour drive wont be to bad for me. Might have to make sure the camper is ready though. I guess I do have to put injectors in my buddies Dodge before we go, so he can smoke even more.

[mtomac]

Does anyone that is going to muncie have a set of stock wheels and 245 tires I could borrow to dyno and dragrace with. No burnouts I promise :D , just a few 4wd launches. If I can come up with a set of stock wheels to borrow, I'll bring my 285 BFG AT's on stock rims if someone wants to use them for pulling. Otherwise I'll have to dismount the BFG's and put the Steeltexes back on the stock rims before Muncie.

[JoeyD]

Make sure you guys take plenty of pictures and video of the action.

[WhiteDuramax]

Tomac, I do have a set of 245's on some Outlaws, but I am going home saturday after the pull, dont know if Im coming back Sunday or not yet.

[mtomac]

I put the rollerskate wheels back on. I forgot how easy they spin :D

[dmaxalliTech]

Mike, did you get some skates? I still have that set of used ones if you want them, only have 25k on them. Lemme know

[WhiteDuramax]

So you dont need them, right? Hope to meet ya there Tomac. Any other TDP memners goin to Muncie?

[mtomac]

I'll still take that set eric, I still need one for a spare. Thanks white duramax, I decided to switch the tires not only for dyno and dragrace use but if the track is hard and dry the narrower tires will work better for pulling too.

[mtomac]

The adjustable blocks for the rear end are done. I'll see how they work this weekend at Wauseon. I'll also be running hanging weight up front for the first time in competition so I'll see how the combo works. I'm expecting the truck to hook up better because I won't lose any hitch height with the blocked rear and the front wheels will have plenty of traction with the weights hanging up front.

[WhiteDuramax]

Tell us how they work out Tomac. Good Luck !

[mtomac]

are you coming to wauseon?

[mtomac]

I ran the blocks in the rear at Wauseon. In the 6800# class I got a little hopping right at the end of the pull and got out of it at 312' with a full pull. A Cummins full pulled as well. Then in the pull off it hopped again toward the end of my pull and I got out of it, taking a 2nd place.

I decided to remove the blocks for the 7800# class and the truck pulled smooth again to a 4th place. I finished behind two real hot Cummins and one really hot Cummins that was trailered in and run like a superstock tractor. I even beat the guy that got me in the lighter class.

I think I represented the Duramax well considering my truck only has programming, intake, and exhaust mods against Cummins powered Dodges with all the above plus turbo, injectors and a grocery list of other mods.

About the rear emd blocks: the top of the block is bolted to the frame, the bottom rests on the axle pad where the rubber stops touch. After removing the blocks and examining them I noticed the forward facing part of the lower pad on each block was curled upward from axle wrap.

With the blocks in place I'm not using the overload springs. Without the overloads there isn't enough spring to keep the axle from wrapping. So if blocks are going to be used, ladder bars must be used as well to prevent axle wrap. But I'm not ready to bolt on ladder bars yet.

While watching an 01-02 Chevy dually pull I didn't see his rear end squat at all when pulling the sled. So I'm thinking about installing a set of overload springs off a 3500 dually or maybe the whole rear spring set. Does anyone know the difference between the 2500HD rear springs and the 3500 dually rear springs on the 01-03 GM HD trucks?

I'm thinking the dually springs or overloads or maybe a set of aftermarket overload springs would work as well as the blocks/traction bars or at least be an alternative setup.

[heartbeatcanada]

Thats interesting, about the bouncing. I was thinking about putting in my timbrens in the rear for the pulls, but was wondering if it would hop, due to the timbrens being rubber?? I've got one question for ya. Do you build boost at the line or do you start off slow and then give her 20ft into it.

I was thinking the same thing about the 3500 leafs. I wanted to go that route, but everybody i talked to said my ride would suffer :confused: So i bought the timbrens instead(heard all good things about them) and i'm not impressed with them at all. The ride quality sucks, its worse than an old lumber truck, i've tried leaving the spacers out and everything, but still too rough. I take them out from spring to fall, as i only need them for the winter. Still thinking of swapping them out. If you do the swap, i would be intersted in the outcome. Keep up the good showings, we don't start pullin till 3 weeks time around here, hopefully i'll have a good showing as well. Later smile.gif

[mtomac]

full pull video from Wauseon

Tomac Duramax 6800# (http://www.antiquetractorpulling.com/TomacDuramaxWauseon6800.mpg)

Big sled, tight clay track, still runnin' high range

[WhiteDuramax]

Sounds like you did pretty good, couldnt make it, I was busy this past weekend. I didnt figure the blocks would work, they sure didnt work for me, they might be making the tire do the hopping, but you probably had your air pressure up. Hopefully I'll do good at the next pull, since I have my 4" exhaust on and I have another box on the way.