afp
12-07-2003, 18:00
Thanks to VFRRider's heat gun tip and some help form Billy14 (thanks guys), I have my 285s which are mounted 16x8s clearanced. I don't know how you guys with 285s and completely stock rigs make it work with no mods.
My measurements show my 285s to be 2" taller than the stock 245s. They are also a couple inches wider. My 285s measure 32.25" in diameter.
A year ago I raised the nose of my truck 2" from stock with the Hill Country Leveling Kit. Aditionally, I have a Frontier full front end replacement, which has much more clearance than stock. Ecen so, I still needed to work on the front fender liners.
Initially, the front tires were rubbing on the mud flaps. After I sorted that out, the tires still rubbed on the aft portion of the fender liners, and had almost no clearance on the front side.
Here is what I had to do:
1. Trim my mud flaps and reconfigure their mounting. Although they were only rubbing on the front, I did all four to ensure good clearance in the rear for chains/cables.
2. Driver's front: Using HVAC cables ties, I pulled the parking brake cable out of the way. Then--using regular cable ties and the heat gun, I pulled and reshaped the aft portion of the fender liner. For the front part of the fender liner, I also installed cable ties and used the heat gun. It takes a lot of heat gun work to flatten the "V" and shape the front portion of the fender liner around the washer tank.
NOTE: To install the cable ties, I simply drilled a pair of holes in the fender liner about an inch apart, pushed the cable tie through, then found a part fo the frame to tie them to.
2. Passenger front: This one was much simpler--the heat gun alone may do it on a stock truck. However, I have the Mega installed, so I tied the bottom front portion of the fender liner forward a bit. I am leery of putting heat on the fender liner where it touches the Mega............The back portion of this side took a cable tie and a little heat.
3. I did raise my torsion bars one turn, which is about 1/4" more lift. With the Hill Country keys, I have at least another inch to go, but I really don't want to go any higher. If I do, the ride may get choppy and the front end will need a realignment.
All said and done, the rear wheel wells have plenty of clearance even for chains. However, the fronts are a bit tight when the wheel is turned. On the aft portion of each front wheel well, the point where the fender sheet metal ends has only about 3/4" to 1" of clearance when the steering wheel is turned between about 3/4 to full. This isn't really enough for chains of cables--not that I'll need any as long as I am in San Antonio. However, it is a consideration when I move back to Oregon.
At that time, I'll either run 265s or have a body shop trim back the rear portion of the front fender wells--I don't want to lift the truck.
In the meantime, I'll have to avoid jumping the truck and landing with the wheels at 3/4 travel or greater, and I'll also have limited steering travel with chains/cables.
Blaine
My measurements show my 285s to be 2" taller than the stock 245s. They are also a couple inches wider. My 285s measure 32.25" in diameter.
A year ago I raised the nose of my truck 2" from stock with the Hill Country Leveling Kit. Aditionally, I have a Frontier full front end replacement, which has much more clearance than stock. Ecen so, I still needed to work on the front fender liners.
Initially, the front tires were rubbing on the mud flaps. After I sorted that out, the tires still rubbed on the aft portion of the fender liners, and had almost no clearance on the front side.
Here is what I had to do:
1. Trim my mud flaps and reconfigure their mounting. Although they were only rubbing on the front, I did all four to ensure good clearance in the rear for chains/cables.
2. Driver's front: Using HVAC cables ties, I pulled the parking brake cable out of the way. Then--using regular cable ties and the heat gun, I pulled and reshaped the aft portion of the fender liner. For the front part of the fender liner, I also installed cable ties and used the heat gun. It takes a lot of heat gun work to flatten the "V" and shape the front portion of the fender liner around the washer tank.
NOTE: To install the cable ties, I simply drilled a pair of holes in the fender liner about an inch apart, pushed the cable tie through, then found a part fo the frame to tie them to.
2. Passenger front: This one was much simpler--the heat gun alone may do it on a stock truck. However, I have the Mega installed, so I tied the bottom front portion of the fender liner forward a bit. I am leery of putting heat on the fender liner where it touches the Mega............The back portion of this side took a cable tie and a little heat.
3. I did raise my torsion bars one turn, which is about 1/4" more lift. With the Hill Country keys, I have at least another inch to go, but I really don't want to go any higher. If I do, the ride may get choppy and the front end will need a realignment.
All said and done, the rear wheel wells have plenty of clearance even for chains. However, the fronts are a bit tight when the wheel is turned. On the aft portion of each front wheel well, the point where the fender sheet metal ends has only about 3/4" to 1" of clearance when the steering wheel is turned between about 3/4 to full. This isn't really enough for chains of cables--not that I'll need any as long as I am in San Antonio. However, it is a consideration when I move back to Oregon.
At that time, I'll either run 265s or have a body shop trim back the rear portion of the front fender wells--I don't want to lift the truck.
In the meantime, I'll have to avoid jumping the truck and landing with the wheels at 3/4 travel or greater, and I'll also have limited steering travel with chains/cables.
Blaine