Zerk Fittings

[tbrowne]

I lubed my truck over the weekend and discovered that I'll have to change two zerk fittings in order to get the grease gun on them. I noticed in earlier posts that others had already done this. Can someone advise if these fittings are metric or SAE?

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02 GMC LT SB CC D/A 4X4

[MAXed Out]

tbrown,

They're 6mm metric. On edit, several people have replaced the zerk (5P passenger) with a right angle fitting.


http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL27/62726/95343/523356.ptp


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[I][B]2002 Chevy 2500HD 4

[TXMAX]

Is the zerk replacement unique to the 4X4's? I lubed mine and hit 11 zerks with no real problem. DId I miss something?

Thanks,

Abe

[mdrag]

I've lubed the front end zerk fittings twice so far - 11 fittings on my '01 3500 4x4. A few are tricky getting to, but doable with a flex hose. I've NOT had to change out any of the zerks - not sure where that came from.

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mdrag
========================
'01 3500 "BIG DOOLEY" DMAX/ALLISON PICTURES (http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?username=mdrag)<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>2001 3500 LT Crew Cab/LB7 DMAX 6600/M74 Allison 1000 Series/4x4 G80/Light Pewter/Tan Leather
<LI>12 Disc CD Changer/Escalade Steering Wheel Audio Controls/Pioneer TS-C1653 Component Speakers
<LI>Kennedy Diesel Headlight Harness with 4 Lamp Mode/Dual Alts with PowerMaster 200A
<LI>TransferFlow 56 gal tank w/Fast Fill Fillneck/ROSTRA Obstacle Sensing System
<LI>Roll-N-Lock Retractable Bed Cover with Carbon Fiber Pattern/TracRac Sliding Rack System
<LI>Clifford AvantGaurd4 Alarm with Remote Start/SmartWindows4/Computer Interface for MS Windows/Turbo Timer Option
<LI>SPA DG-111 Digital Boost & EGT Gauge/PIAA Airdam/PIAA 80 Pro XT Driving & 959 Fog Lights
<LI>DTA Corp Running Boards & Mudflaps/Line-X/Invinca-Shield/Center Console Mods
<LI>Lucerix X-Mount Mirrors/Tekonsha Prodigy/Goodrich Velvet-Ride Shackles
<LI>Future Mods Include: Alcoas, 4" Exhaust.... etc.
[/list]

[tbrowne]

Thank you for the quick responses. I found all eleven fittings but I couldn't get my flexible hose two of them. A 45 degree fitting should cure that problem. Sounds like some flexible hoses may work better than mine.

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02 GMC LT SB CC D/A 4X4

[kanton1]

When doing a lube job, what is a good rule of thumb to know when there is enough grease in the particular area being lubed? 2-3 squirts, or more? I don't want to overgrease and have a seal or something blow!!

Thanks in advance,
Kyle

[slapshot44]

tbrowne,
I had the same problem on the two lower ball joint zerks. I think some hose end fittings (yours and mine) are larger in diameter than others. The clearance between the zerks and the control arm are tight on these two zerks. If I wiggled the hose and angled it just right, it connected enough to get grease in the zerk, otherwise it squirted all over the place. I'm going to look for a new hose with a thinner fitting on the end. Otherwise I'll change those two zerks.

As far as kantons question, I'll state my opinions on chassis lubrication. I've done enough suspension work on the older cars and trucks I have owned to come to my own conclusion on proper greasing. I've noticed that on almost every ball joint, tie-rod, or whatever that I've had to replace that; (1) the rubber boot was dried out and cracked from age, or (2) the seal was blown or the lip on the boot was out of the groove it fits in. In either case, the grease leaks out and dirt gets in, causing wear and failure. The second condition is most likely caused by over-greasing the component. The boot only has so much volume. Once it is completely filled with grease, any additional grease you add will eventually over-expand the boot and cause it to "blow". Then you lose grease and introduce dirt.

I watch the rubber boot when I grease the component. If I see it expand when I pump the grease gun, I stop adding grease. I also keep an eye on the boots themselves and try to gauge when the boot is "full" of grease. If you can squeeze it and move the grease inside around, it is OK. If it is ballooned and feels too full and ready to explode, it probably is. If the boot is already too full of grease, you don't need to add any! (you might want to pull the zerk and squeeze some out.)

Anyway, just my opinions. It would be good to hear from some true professionals in this category and see what they think.

Denny

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2001 Sierra 3500 SLE Ex.Cab 4WD Duramax/Allison
2002 Bigfoot 25C10.6 Camper
Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch, Ride-Rite airbags

[Alli-max]

Yep, the center one is tough to get to, and I have a flex hose.

Dumping my oil this weekend (first time to get to use the Fumoto), and going to replace that zerk with a 6MM 90 degree one. Went ahead and bought a total of 3 90's and 3 45's so I could change out which ever ones I need to make it a little faster. Cost me a little under $5 for the 6 zerks.

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2001 GMC 2500HD SLE AlliMax, Longbed, Ext. Cab, 4X4 Summit White, G80 Differential, Husky Liners, Black UWS Toolbox, Black Westin Nerfs, Black Replacement Front and Rear Bumper, JL Audio, Hella, Cobra, Goodyear 265/75/16's, Tekonsha Prodigy Controller, Fumoto, Rhino Liner, 400 Watt Inverter, XM Radio
KENNEDY 4" Exhaust: INSTALLED!
UPDATED PHOTOS (http://www.picturetrail.com/markstanco)

My truck is faster than Pullinpower's. Period.

SoMnDmax...here I come!

I sure wished I lived in Lawton, OK so I could work on my truck in Mdrag's Shop!

[JohnM]

slapshot44, This thread and your description of ball joint problems and their probable grease related causes, made me to think of a question I asked my dealer's service advisors on two different occasions(see paragraph three below). When I first received my '96 Chevy, I did all the oil changes and grease jobs myself. When greasing the fittings, I watched the boot fill up and when full, but soft, I stopped squeezing the pistol grip grease gun.

One slushy winter I decided to bring the truck to my selling dealer for a lube and oil/filter change. The next morning, on a dry garage floor, I checked under the truck to see what, if anything they had done. I was amazed at how much grease the lube technician had forced out of the rubber boots. There were great gobbs of grease on my wheels, all over the suspension parts, etc. They may have greased the vehicle, but they sure had also made a heck of a mess of it.

I became curious as to what Chevy recommended as the proper way to grease the various components. My owner's manual said nothing. Then I checked my Chevy Shop Manual(The same one used by the dealers) and it also said nothing about the correct amount of grease to add. I than asked the service rep and he said that there are strong reasons to NOT move grease through the boot(moving grease through the boot causes a hole. A hole allows water and dirt to enter) and strong reasons TO move grease through the boot(if the grease is contaminated by water and dirt entering the joint through a hole in the boot, that contaminated grease should be removed). Sounds like a Catch-22 to me! I suggested one way certainly had to be better than another. He said Chevy had no specific recommendation. That was 5.5 years ago. I asked the same question of a different service rep about a week ago and he gave me the same story. Intuition tells me one way has to be better than the other. Does older grease within suspension component boots eventually break down and turn to oil and then must be replaced? or does the grease maintain its "body" forever and never need replacement? If grease holds its "body" forever why do we have to grease the vehicle every 7,500 miles. I do not care which way is the best way to grease a vehicle. I just wish someone who does know the best way would so inform us.

Now, what I do is add grease until a teensy bet starts coming through. Then I stop and remove the excess. I check it again in about a week and remove the little that has continued to leak through with added use.

Thanks for letting me get this bothersome question off my chest after all these years.

JohnM

[slapshot44]

Hey JohnM,

As far as the catch-22 goes, how bout this: We should move grease through the joint, but not through the boot. By putting grease into the joint until the boot just starts to expand, the grease in the component will be under a small amount of pressure. This pressure difference should cause the grease to migrate through the joint. In the case of some steering components, the grease should seep out from between the two pieces tied together. This will push the dirt accumulating on the greasy surface away from the joint.

So, if the boot feels soft, some grease should be added until it just starts to expand. If the boot is already firm, it is already pressurized, so I wouldn't add anymore. If the grease is under pressure, it will be keeping dirt and water from getting into the joint. Some components might not have much, if any seepage. Continuing to add grease until the boot explodes doesn't do any good for the joint, since once the boot integrity is gone, dirt and water are going to be finding their way into the component.

[Black Dog]

I have a right angle fitting for the grease gun that I use for those hard to get to fittings. Actually, it works better than the straight one on most of them. I just pump a couple of pumps into the fittings. As soon as the boots are full, they are going to start to leak. The only grease that does any good is the grease that is in between the sliding parts of the ball joint / tie rod end, and that is a very small area unless the joint is shot.

[Jomar]

Hey guys, somebody tell me where #11 is . I greased mine and only found 10 zerks ,5 on each side and the seal on the steering box arm was already blown out.

Jomar

[FightinTXag]

Jomar, SoMNDmax posted this and it helped me find 'em all.

11 zerks-
1 on each upper ball joint, 1 on each lower ball joint, 1 on the pitman arm, 1 on each inner tie rod, 1 on each outer tie rod, and 2 on the idler arm.

My guess is since you say you got 5 on each side you missed one of the idler arm zerks. That's the arm that attaches the steering system to the frame on the passenger side. There's a zerk pointing straight up on top of the idler arm where it attaches to the frame. I had to hunt to find this one and it's impossible to see and tought to get at. I found it with my hands and replaced it with a 90

[JohnM]

Slapshot44, You convinced me that the best way to grease the vehicle is exactly as you describe. I was doing it your way until the one time I let the dealer lube the truck. Jeez, what a mess they made(and didn't wipe up). I'm going back to doing it the right way.

Slapshot44! Hmmm! Don't play hockey do you? Played year 'round hockey in Anchorage, AK for 23 years. They used me at left wing, center and left defense. I was best at left defense. Man, I loved that sport. What a conditioner!

Best Wishes, JohnM

[Diesel_Lawyer]

The information about lubing these trucks has been fantastic.

What brands of grease guns are you all using? (especially a gun with a right angle or thin head)?

[JohnM]

Lawyer, I user Lincoln brand hand operated cartridge style grease guns mainly because these are within the "best" category and they are readily available locally. There are basically two styles of hand operated grease guns available: 1)The long lever style which develops much pressure and which requires two hands to operate. Typically, the grease outlet is in the center of head; 2) The pistol grip style. Typically, the grease outlet is on the side of the head. I prefer the pistol grip style which allows me to hold the head on the zerk while pumping with the other hand. There are two pistol style grips: one which has the "fingers" part of the grip moving when squeezed, much like pulling a trigger on a handgun. The other style of pistol grip has the rear part of the grip moving when squeezed. I would describe the rear part of the grip as that lever which fits within the palm and thumb part of your hand. Jeez, its hard to describe the differences in the two. I really like the style which has the fingers part of the grip moving. I do not like the style which has the rear lever moving. Squeeze both types and you will quickly feel the difference. Choose your favorite. One normally would not need the long lever, high pressure type of grease gun on a pickup unless a zerk is severely clogged with rust, etc. If you must generate this much pressure getting grease into a joint, something is probably wrong and must be corrected.

Each of my grease guns has a four foot, high pressure hose with a wire reinforced bend radius where the hose connects to the head of the gun and again where the hose connects to the grease head. These two wire reinforcements prevent crimped or collapsed hoses when trying to reach zerks located in "impossible" locations.

Another important consideration is the grease head at the end of the hose. There are some really good ones and some really bad ones. The good ones will stay on the zerk and allow you to pump grease without holding the grease head on the zerk and they simply will not leak any grease around the zerk. The others require you to hold the head on the zerk and no matter how hard you try and how slowly you pump, they leak as much grease around the zerk as they pump into it. I have had good luck with the four jaw Lincoln heads and another 4 jaw head, whose manufacturer I have forgotten. I've also had some bad luck with others, whose names I have forgotten.

I use Mobil 1 grease for all chassis lubrication on my Chevy. This may or may not meet the specific recommendation of Chevy but it is a NLGI Grade 2, GC-LB rated grease which, according to my owner's manual, is approved by Chevy for chassis and driveline lubrication. Mobil 1, along with many other greases is within the "best" category of greases and is readily available locally. In my opinion, it is best to use the same grease all the time and grease often, not just according to the recommended schedule.

In response to your specific question about a "right angle" grease gun, I am not certain what you mean. However, I believe I may have answered your question somewhere above.

Hope all this helps a little.

Best Wishes,

JohnM

[Diesel_Lawyer]

Thanks for the info JohnM. I will look at those Lincoln grease guns.

[wxmn6]

If I want to do some of those basic maintenance, should I consider to purchase a service manual? Or do the owner manual have some info. about maintenance?

[JohnM]

wxmn6, If I were in your position, I would purchase one of the after market(Haynes, GMC, etc.) service manuals and use it conjunction with your Owner's Manual. Your owner's manual will describe what to do and when to do it. The aftermarket manual will show where things are located and will provide tips for better service.

Best Wishes,

JohnM

[slapshot44]

Hey JohnM,
Yes, that's what the display name is about. Left D is also my position of choice. Been playing since I was about 6. Most recently on my college team. Unfortunately I blew a ligament in my knee in the middle of the season before last, had it replaced and came back in the middle of last season and hurt it again in my second game back. Doc says no more full contact hockey unless I want to take a chance on a knee replacement (NOT!). Oh well, Sunday league will still be fun, but it's kinda tough playing Defenseman when the forwards know they're not gonna get hit...