Can I get answers concerning the

[ChevyGert]

I

[dmaxalliTech]

They will make your truck ride like crap, Way too stiff, but it will raise it. 6.6l&impalaSS has them in his, I dont know how he likes it, but after installing them, I thought it was very rough...

[ski]

I am not sure about the "green keys" but I have what I think are the ford keys (hill 4wd). Although I purchased the expensive solution, I have added Rancho RS9000X shocks and cranked to about 2". Ride is like stock but better with good shocks, I think it greatly improved it. I went with stock height shocks. If you go over 2", the ride can get very bouncy, not real stiff though. I have not regreted it at all.

[DmaxMaverick]

Beware!!

Contrary to popular belief, changing keys does nothing other that give you a little more twist on the torsion bars. It will, over time, be a costly mistake. The CV joints are not designed to operate at such an angle for long periods of time, and the control arms will be at the upper limit, which doesn't leave much for travel.

Torsion is torsion. The torsion bar and control arms don't know which keys you have in there. All they know is twist. More twist (torsion), more preload. X amount of twist at the rear of the bar yields X amount of preload. The other keys do fit, but in my informed opinion, are a bad way to gain more than a moderate amount of lift.

[Sandaholic]

DmaxMaverick, this is the first negative post I have read regarding the green keys. You wrote, "(keys) are a bad way to gain more than a moderate amount of lift." What do you consider a moderate lift? I am looking to do about a 2" lift or so, just enough to level it out and maybe fit a 33" tire. Do you feel this level of lift would jeopardize the CV joints and other suspension components? Do you have any suggestions on a better way to achieve my suspension goals? I know rancho makes a 4" lift, which is more then I need and also cost a lot more. But I would rather pay a little more now, then a lot more latter due to a poor suspension setup.

[DmaxMaverick]

2" would be at the top end of max. Mine are at about 1.5" with 33" tires for about 35K now and I have seen no problems with it. I am still not 100% comfortable with it (90%, maybe). The tires (285/75/16 BS Dueler M/T's) don't rub anywhere unless I bottom out while at full lock. Even then it's slight.

I leveled the truck while hooked to my 5'er. The rear raises up about 1 to 1.5" unloaded. It's not a lift, but it's as close as you'll get before the big bucks.

Do what you must, but any more than 25K miles on the CV's turned up to 2.5" over would be lucky. Remember. They turn ALL the time, not just when you are in 4 X 4.

[letsgo]

Every now and then I have to throw these Questions out there, what are green keys or keys, where do they fit, what are they made of, and physical size???

any input would be appreciated.

thanks and good luck.

[JimWilson]

The "green keys" are merely a different set of torsion bar adjusters that are indexed slightly different. GM makes about 5 different sets of keys that give a different offset. What this does is enable you to raise the front of your truck more then the stock keys allow. They do this by having the torsion bars "preloaded" at a higher degree, so the lowest setting on the green keys is higher then the lowest setting on the stock keys.

[GMC D-Max]

Just to clarify, the different keys don't add more "preload", they can only change the clocking angle at the rigid end of the torsion bar. To preload something, you would have to be twisting the torsion bar against a stationary, or immoveable suspension component. But, in this case, the more you twist on the torsion bar, the lower the control arm drops, and higher the front end goes. Spring rate (or torsion, in this case) does not change. Any perceived difference in ride quality is because of a drastic change in suspension geometry as you twist the bars further, thus dropping the control arms closer to the bottom of their travel.

In response to Sandaholic, you would probably notice increased wear and quicker failure of steering components. CV joint wear would also be accelerated, especially if you use 4WD often (and judging by your handle, you've probably had your truck in the sand a time or two ;) ).

[ski]

everything in moderation. I did this on my 96 z71 and have over 130,000 miles. it is like adding power and the injectors or other components will wear quicker. no one knows for sure. modifying any component without common sense can be risky.....

[D'Max_2_DA_Max]

Jim Wilson, you wrote:

The "green keys" are merely a different set of torsion bar adjusters that are indexed slightly different. GM makes about 5 different sets of keys that give a different offset.I want to level my truck, front is about 2" lower than rear from new. Can I purchase different keys from the Stealer to get up to the 2" described here without problems or must I purchase aftermarket? If GM, which of the 5 and would you/anyone know part numbers. Also, how difficult are they to swap out? Thanks! :confused:

[Turbo Al]

Would someone please repost the part number for the green keys and the tool needed for them. It was posted somewhere but a seach turned up nothing BUT there are a "few" missing posts.
Thanks in advance

[BassinRVer]

Follow DMAXMAVERICK's warning. I broke two tierods because the tierods are angled now with the keys. Also I can not drive on pavement in 4x4 because of the angle of the driveshaft (push on the gas and the truck verse of). I highly recommend not doing the keyways. Mine are coming out as soon as Big Diesel Suspension makes a lift for our trucks.

[Allison Jettester]

I put Gabriel Hi-Jacker Air Shocks on the front, and together with turning the torsion bars up about 6 turns, the truck rides level. I can adjust the air for different ride comfort. With my camper on, I carry about 160 lbs. and it doesn't have much front end bounce. I've done this on 3 4x4's (all GMC's of course) over the past 25 years. It also helps with a snow plow.

It should be noted here that Gabriel doesn't list a part number for the front. I took the stock shock in and matched it up (almost) to an air. I still had to modify the mounting, but I didn't have a full selection to compare with.

Joe

[ 09-17-2003, 09:42 AM: Message edited by: Allison Jettester ]

[Jelisfc]

Turbo Al, The green key part number is 15592573. I did mine on Labor day. Since the post I explained it on is missing here goes.

Jack the truck up by the frame so the suspension hangs. I did one side at a time. Unscrew the bolt completely out of the cross piece. The key will rest on the cross piece. There was enough crude on my bolts that I could clearly see how far it had been turned in. Double check before removing and measure the length if in doubt. If you have access to a torsion bar tool use it. I used a 2-jaw puller. Mine was a bit small and on the second key it wanted to move a bit. Make sure the bolt extends past the ends of the jaws. The bigger one I bought for the occasion wouldn't work. Whatever you use be careful. With the key resting on the cross piece use the puller to lift the key enough to remove the cross piece then let all the tension out. To get the Tbar out I first sprayed the hex it fits into and took a bar and pried the key down in case the hex was jambed. I drove the bar out with a hammer and 1/2 rod.

Reinstall just the opposite. The one difference is once the puller has lifted the key high enough to get the cross piece in screw the bolt in and crank it up to relieve tension off the puller.

In my case I initially reinstalled the adjusting bolts exactly where they were before. It ended up lifting the front 2 3/4". I haven't lowered mine and have put shock spacers in to offset the lift. See my pics for spacer photos.

Green Keys and 4 wheels and tires including dinner and helping bring in the groceries...3 hours.

Good Luck

[JimWilson]

Originally posted by D'Max_2_DA_Max:
I want to level my truck, front is about 2" lower than rear from new. Can I purchase different keys from the Stealer to get up to the 2" described here without problems or must I purchase aftermarket? If GM, which of the 5 and would you/anyone know part numbers. Also, how difficult are they to swap out? Thanks!I can't say for sure if there is any additional front end stress because mine have been in for only about 2K. The longest I had ever heard was close to 50K and going strong. We'll see...

Anyway, heres a link to a thread from FSC that will tell you all you need to know: http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65871

[Turbo Al]

Jelisfc thanks for taking the time to repost.
Bassin RVer, yes read DmaxMavericks warning, I was already well aware of the downside of jacking up trucks too high, and have seen first hand the damage (not my truck) but couldn't convince the individal to uncrank the torsion bars.

Turbo AL

[ryeguy]

Turbo Al, can you expand on your comments being "have seen first hand the damage (not my truck) but couldn't convince the individal to uncrank the torsion bars"?

I'm another guy considering the green keys. The posts on the ChevyFullSize forum indicate that the drop splindle lift kits will increase the angles on the CV's around 2 inches, and claim that the CV's are still operating within tolerances. So a green key lift should also be within tolerances. And you've got kits like Superlift that you can tweak to increase the ride height in a similar manner. But you are seeing an increase on the angles on the tie rods...

--Rob (over-analysing again, I'm concerned about longevity but am toying with a bit of lift)