Turbo /waste gate ?

[gotdiesel]

At idle,with the waste gate fully closed should I here the turbo?
I can hold the waste gate closed and nothing changes.

Vacuume pump not working,actuator works fine.

How can I check my turbo? Sorry no gauges yet.

[GMC Hauler]

You should not hear the turbo at idle.

I believe there are only a few ways to check the turbo. A mechanical gage, look at what the computer sees for boost pressure. An indirect way is to look at how much black smoke you make. If you make some, you're not getting enough air.

[gotdiesel]

I get black smoke from exhaust with only
materate acceleration. With hard acceleration ,
it's nothing but black smoke,and not much acceleration.
I tried closing the waste gate and holding
throttle at 2500rpm still does not seem to change
anything,if I depress the throttle from there too
fast I get alot black smoke.

I admit that I am new to diesel's and turbo's.
I just want to fix this without replacing parts
that I don't need to.

I will start with the vacuum pump.

Thanks

[rjschoolcraft]

If you can move the wastegate shaft at idle, vacuum is not getting to the actuator, or the actuator itself has failed internally. Check the vacuum pump with a gage. Should be 22" hg at the pump, about 15" after the solenoid. Search in this forum for more details.

[jeffscarstrucks]

Is there a similar way to check the actuator on a 93? (gauges are on the way). I am wondering if the turbo-master is a good upgrade and would like to verify before and after results. Didn't mean to hi-jack your thread but it sounds like the same issues I'm on. Thanks, JEFF

[jimcreek]

on my 1995 gmc 6.5td i had the same problem which turned out to be the turbo boost senser mounted on the intake (looks like a map sensor).
dont do what i did and trust local aftermarket parts house which sold me a MAP sensor.
I took mine to dealer who hooked up a computor to mine to determine that my parts house sold me a MAP sensor.
after right part (turbo boost sensor)was installed no more black smoke.

[N. GURGANUS]

I'M AM HAVING WASTE GATE ISSUES WITH MY '96,AS WELL. SYMPTOMS: LOW POWER, LOW MPG,AND A BIT OF BLACK SMOKE. THE KICKER IS THAT ON CLOSED THROTTLE DECELERATIONS THERE IS AN OCCAISIONAL LOUD, SCHRILL NOISE THAT COMES FROM UNDER THE HOOD. I'VE BEEN TOLD BY AN UNFAMILIAR LOCAL MECH. THAT HE CAN CURE THE PROBLEM WITH A NEW TURBOCHARGER INSTALL FOR ABOUT 4k. IF ITS AS SIMPLE AS INSTALLING A RELATIVELY CHEAP TURBO MASTER AND PLUGGING THE VACUUM LINE, I WILL LET YOU KNOW. THE VEHICLE WILL BE PLUGGED INTO THE DEALER'S COMPUTER TOMORROW TO CONFIRM OR DENY MY TURBO CHARGER DIAGNOSIS AS BEING FINE. TOO BE CONTINUED. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE REALLY, (I MEAN) REALLY WELCOME AT THIS POINT.

[JeepSJ]

N - please turn off your caps lock. All caps is considered shouting.

[BrentN]

N. GURGANUS -
If indeed your turbo has been diagnosed as bad...DO NOT drive anymore. The last thing you want is for it to grenade itself and **** its guts down the throat of your engine.

A new or rebuilt turbo is less than $1000 from many different locations. It will take you a couple hours to install. So if you can turn a wrench yourself, do it yourself.

My turbo started squealing. The next day I found that the impeller shaft had significant radial movement, the following day it blew. My engine had 6000 miles on it at the time. Its been 10,000 miles and I still wonder when the engine is going to let me know it didnt enjoy injesting the turbo blades. I was actually waiting on a response on how much shaft movement was normal and decided to drive it that next day and bam..game over. FWIW

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

A loud, shrill noise - does it sound anything like when a sleeve (not ball or roller) bearing is running dry? I wonder if it's possible for your turbo to be starved for oil (plugged passages due to overheat & coking), so its bearings are running kinda dry? If this is so, BrentN's advice is REALLY important to consider; perhaps others who have had turbos die can chime in here - sounds, etc. I have absolutely no idea if this is possible or not, but you must consider it.

If you've determined that the turbo is not in imminent danger of grenading, you can temporarily bypass the Wastegate Actuator (vacuum-operated piece) with a piece of stiff wire. I ran my pickup this way for over a year. If done carefully (which means at least monitoring boost), you could do this long enough to see if your turbo is capable of making boost or not. When I did this, I pulled the wastegate fully closed, then backed off a little. (I once pulled a trailer with the wastegate fully closed - it overboosted on a hill & the PCM probably saved my motor by de-fuelling.)

On the other hand, a Boost Master isn't that much $, & eliminates all that vacuum stuff...

Blessings!

[N. GURGANUS]

Wow what a great turnout. Thanks you all, sorry for the the caps lock (force of habit from writting specifications for a living)
My hunch on the eroneous claim of turbochargr failure from the questionable mechanic was correct. The GM dealer was kind enough to perform a turbocharger and engine systems diagnostic and burry it in the cost of a six hour transfer case teardown and replacement of damaged gears & other parts. That was the loud shrill noise (that seemed to be coming from under the hood during deceleration) They did however reveal that the boost preasure was about 4-6 lbs too low. seems that either the WGA solenoid ?? or the actual WGA is faulty perhaps the turbo master will correct this issue. To be continued...

[C.K. Piquup]

Go to GM Parts,buy a TurboBoostSolenoid for around $30,install it in the parking lot by unplugging and removing one small bolt,and see if smoke is gone/power is back.Try this first before paying thousands to be misdiagnosed(possibly).

[cruzer]

JEFF, A turbo master is awsome for 92-93 mech injection. You will need gauges though so you can adjust it.

Ken