Power window prob

[More Power]

2001 GMC 2500HD crew cab:

The rear door pwr windows (both R&L) have been a little flaky for some time now. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes the rear right door window will work and not the left. It's not a fuse.. No problem with the front pwr windows.

Any ideas?

Jim

[Uncle Wally]

Jim,

Have your door switches ever gotten wet from leaving the window down. A mechanic friend of mine warned me about leaving my windows cracked and letting the switched get wet. I have not experienced these issues on my newer trucks, just my old 83, so I'm not sure how much of a prob it really is.

Waldo

[jbplock]

Jim,
I had the same symptoms you're describing with the passenger window switch on my 01 Malibu.. A new switch fixed it

[DmaxMaverick]

Same problem on 2000 Impala. Master cluster switch had arc burned internal contacts. I polished up the contacts and applied a liberal amount of dielectric grease and it works now. The next time, it'll probably burn clean through. I've also done this on older, 80's models with about 50% success. The switches aren't intended to be serviceable, but they can be if you can get them apart without destroying them. Careful with those iddy-bitty watch springs and plastic tabs!

[HowieE]

I have seen the female socket that fits to the bottom of the master switch have the contacts relax and cause intermittence. Remove the connector from the switch and try to reduce the opening in the female connector with a small screw driver or awl. My 87 Sub was traded in for this reason and the Stealer tried to install a new switch only to have the problem continue. When I bought the truck all I did was just as noted above and the windows still work 15 years later.
The water may have also caused corrosion at this connection.

[tommac95]

Like Howie said...


I replaced my drivers side PowerWindow switch soon after buying my p/u, when window control was found intermittent. New switch worked fine. 10K miles and 2 years later, problem returned over last month . On several occassions the new switch received a dusting of 1/4--1/2" snow , but so did that on the psgr side , which has never failed . On this latter failure occasion i noticed that either the switch would 'work' or 'not work' for the duration of the ride {all short hops, typically 5-30 minutes, except two over two hrs}. I tentatively figured that either the motor brushes or harness connector were causal , jostled by door slam.

Before opening door i searched this forum and noted switch and rain as culprits , also door-window weather-seals . After opening door panels i noticed the motor connector seemed floppy at removal . The motor responded consistently to test leads connected to a battery , panel removed.

The standard mechanical grease on the connector/door terminals was all dried out. I scraped the terminals with a scribe, brushed with mineral spirits, flushed with Gumout carb spray cleaner (discoloring insulating plastic base) .
I used a Dremel plastic brush to clean the terminals on the harness side, and attempted to reform the terminals to optimize contact. Fresh silicone dielectric grease was applied to both motor and harness terms before reassembly ; care was exercised in re-attaching the connector to the motor .
It works nicely !

Notes:
>The motor connector is same type as used on power door locker. The long flap/tab on the side pulls out, then a thin blade (like .060"X.025", 3/8"long) releases the tang redundantly securing the terminal in the connector house. New connector terminals were found at Pepboys locally , but the original crimps and wires seemed A-OK.
>I think the cause of failure was poor technique installing motor connector , compounded by drying mechanical grease. I bother to post this because the motor seems fine despite age/mileage; and replacement of motor and switch, which was under serious/immanent consideration, would have been unecessary, and probably insufficient.
>I believe this is an example where the use of silicone dielectric compound is warranted. The silicone lacks reactive salts, and abhors water. On a tail lamp bulb , where there is better access, and expected component replacement , grease is probably just as good. Frequently the high current of a motor will help establish good contack, here the drying slime prevented that.
>I looked at the wiring diagram, not conclusively, but closely....The relevant harness ground appears to be by convenience-center/instrument panel.
The master (driver-side) door-window switch only works {my year obviously!} when the plug activating the power-door-lock(s) is also plugged in. Didn't analyse this. May mean ground is in series, or something else...

[chrisinkanata]

Check the wiring between the LF door and the base of the A pillar, inside the rubber boot. Insulation cracks, breaks & the wiring goes. I've had to repair several of these over the years. Real pain to repair. If you're doing one, you may as well do them all.

Chris

[More Power]

Thanks for the replies.... To my knowledge, none of the switches have ever gotten wet.

Not long after the first post, both rear pwr windows have been totally inop. I've yet to pull the master driver's side switch, but will soon. :)

Jim

[ChopperBill]

Doing a search because my passengers side window refuses to move. I can hear something click when I engage the buttons from either side. I figured it was probably the motor but the darn thing hasn't been used that much. Any suggestions here?

[Mark Rinker]

My 2003 had both window motors replaced - one under warranty, and one out of warranty.

Both were corroded terribly and operated 'weakly' before failing completely.

[ChopperBill]

Thanks Mark. I was pretty sure it must be the motor. Going to look for an after market. Sure the Stealers want a fortune.

[SoTxPollock]

Hey ChopperBill, any chance you do the traffic report in Houston on the radio? Or is someone else using your handle?

[ChopperBill]

No I'm not the helicopter flier or the axe murderer.