Back Brakes only one worn out?

[needbigtruck]

Well I did a search but there were so many things about brakes I couldn't find the answer. I just got new tires and the mechanic said my back brakes were going to be metal on metal in about a day. I took a look and sure enough the back drivers brake pad was all but gone. I went and got new pads and started the chore of changing them out. The first problem I had was the mounting bolts were on incredibly hard. The factory used gobs of locktite and the 2 bolts were next to impossible to get off especially the top one that had interference from the springs. Then I discovered I needed a T55 torx driver. The second problem was how incredibly tight those 2 screws were. I rounded out 2 drivers on the one side. I finally got that wheel done and started on the other side. I ended up rounding another 2 drivers ($5.00 apiece) that's when I noticed that the pads on that side were practically new. So that's my question has anybody had only one side wear out?, Also has anybody else expierenced trying to get the 2 mounting bolts and 2 rods out. The factory must torque those on to 1000 ftlbs. My truck has 50,000 miles on it.

[battmain]

I've found that when you have screws/nuts with locktite on them, a friends impact wrench makes short work of them. That or a bigger hammer. smile.gif

Seriously though, a hammmer will act as a poor mans impact. smile.gif

[Turbo Al]

I think heat is the only real solution to locktight somewhere around 300 degres so not pratical in all applications.

BTW only one pad on my wife's Monte Carlo was worn out -- had it in for warrenty work and they totally ignored the problem EVEN AFTER it was pointed out to them. Normal wear and tear Sir -- B.S. They were more than willing to do a $300.00 non warrenty repair though --- not going to happen did it myself for $60.00 and will keep an eye on it.

[mackin]

In my experience if youy have abnormal wear as you mention (one side front or rear worn out) you have a sticking caliper ... Back in 95 ish GM had an issue with front calipers doing exactly that,hanging up ... You "probably" have a bad caliper ...

Mac

[saphauler]

At 30k my rear rotors were rusted and pitted and the inner pad was almost shot on both sides, the outer pads had 90% pad left.Had it repaired under warranty.

By 40k the inner pads were wearing fast and once in a while one rear wheel or the other would be hot after driving.

Ended up replacing both rear calipers. Upon doing an autopsy on the calipers one piston was froze solid and the other three were well on there way - lots of loose red rust in the caliper.

Shop around for calipers they were anywhere from 50 to 100 dollars each. Good luck

[Yellow '03 H.D.]

My 2000 z-71 did the same thing, It was a stuck caliper.

[dmaxalliTech]

you say you pay 5.00 each for bits? thats the first problem, cheap tools! LOL. Impact wont fit very good on top bolt due to spring interference. Heat is to be used carefully as you dont want to melt rubber seals in caliper. Make sure the pads and the pad cradle is clean and the caliper slides are clean and lubed properly.. calipers will be more then 100 bucks by far. Unless you get aftermarket and not sure whats avail on them

[saphauler]

Hey dmaxallitech are these calipers used only on the 2500hd? The reason I ask is the replacement calipers I put on looked like rebuilds, there were some dents and looked like they were bead blasted. I have been wondering how they got cores so soon. I paid 52.99 each (not loaded) and the core was 30.00 ea.

I hope I didn't make a mistake going the cheap route. At the time I figured if the factory ones only lasted 2 years, rebuilds would do that for way less money. Got any rebuilt caliper horror stories for us? thanks