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ADub
03-30-2005, 15:46
Just moved from Tulsa, OK to Houston. Got here and noticed the dr rear axle seal is leaking pretty good. I searched, but it seems most guys got this fixed under warranty; Im out of warranty. Anyone have a procedure for this? Is there a Chilton's manual that cover's these trucks? Id rather fix it myself, never worked on a full floater.

Thanks,

AW

ADub
03-31-2005, 13:05
Anyone?

More Power
03-31-2005, 13:29
Replacing the seal looks to be relatively easy in the service manual. It's just that you need to first remove the tire/wheel, the axle shaft, the brake caliper, the wheel bearing preload adjuster nut and then the hub. The bearings will need to be repacked as the assembly goes back together with a new seal. Then, set the wheel bearing preload using the adjuster nut.

I haven't done one yet, but I doubt it's all that much harder than replacing the seal and repacking the bearings in a front hub on a 2WD car.

MP

ADub
03-31-2005, 15:41
That torque procedure is what I need. I don't have a factory service manual

More Power
03-31-2005, 20:09
Book says you'll need the wheel bearing nut wrench J 2222-C.

Turn the hub in the opposite direction to the way the adjuster nut is tightened, tighten to 52 lb-ft.

Then turn the adjusting nut CCW to align the closest lock key slot in the nut with the keyway in the axle housing. Then install the retaining ring.

Good luck!

MP

madmatt
03-31-2005, 20:21
Sorry MP but your mistaken ;) !! What the book says is to torque the nut to 52lbs ft while rotating the hub in the opposite dirrection. then loosen the nut untill turns freely. then torque the nut to 0 lb ft to finger tight and no more. install lock key. if the keyway will not line up rotate the nut counterclockwise only far enough to line up the slots. then install the retaining ring.
The 52 is just to seat the hub and bearings. If you don't believe me I can post that part of the procedure.

More Power
04-01-2005, 12:57
Hey Matt,

You're the man when it comes to working on these trucks. smile.gif

However, here's a word for word transcription from page 4-255 of the 2001 service manual.





"5. Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut using the J 2222-C.
Rotate the hub in the opposite direction to the way the adjuster nut is turning.
Ensure the inner bearing and the seal seats against the spindle shoulder.
Tighten the adjusting nut to 70 N-m (52 lb ft).

6. Turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise and align the closest lock key slot with the keyway in the axle housing.

7. Install the adjusting nut lock key into the keyway in the axle housing.

8. Install the retaining ring.

9. Install the axle shaft....and so on....

MP

ADub
04-01-2005, 15:07
Thats what I needed, I really appreciate it. Do you know where I could get the hub tool?

madmatt
04-01-2005, 15:30
and here it is straight out of Dealerworld.....word for word from document#661216

Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut using the J 2222-C . Rotate the hub in the opposite direction to the way the adjuster nut is turning. Ensure the inner bearing and the seal seats against the spindle shoulder.

Tighten
Tighten the adjusting nut to 70 N

madmatt
04-01-2005, 15:39
Oh yeah, and MP your the man :cool: when it comes to running web sites smile.gif !!

just found this ....MP Take note, just cause it's on paper doesn't means it's right.

Revised Wheel Bearing Adjustment Procedure
2001-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K and G-Van Models

with 10.5 and 11.5 Inch Axles

This bulletin is being issued to revise the Wheel Bearing Adjustment procedure in the Rear Drive Axle sub-section of the Service Manual. Please replace the current information in the Service Manual with the following information.

The following information has been updated within Service Information (SI). If you are using a paper version of this Service Manual, please make a reference to this bulletin on the affected page.

trust me you'll have problems using the old torque. they don't change this stuff cause they like too. GM hates to admit when their wrong!

More Power
04-02-2005, 15:27
Matt, the revised procedure actually makes more sense, and I'm glad you posted the info. The revised procedure is pretty much how I've always done the front wheel bearings on 2WD and solid axle 4WD vehicles.

ADub, the tool is likely available at many auto parts stores, or you could visit www.snap-on.com (http://www.snap-on.com) - or get one through your dealer.

MP

ADub
04-28-2005, 17:52
For future reference, to tool is 75 bucks at Snap On. You can buy the 4wd hub tool W1270 at O'reilly's and it will work. Its 10 dollars. Doesn't fit perfectly, but 2 minutes with a file or a dremel and it will sit flush. It also work without sitting flush.