Clogged Fuel Filter Symptoms Include Sudden Death Syndrome?

[Bill H]

I know the articles here suggests that if you have any engine problems at all, to replace the fuel filter first. But I wonder if the engine runs normally in all other respects, except that it will suddenly stall without explanation, is the filter replacement ($20+) called for? I have no other engine problems (no hesitation, to reduced power, no rough idle, nothing) except the engine will suddenly die for no appearant reason, as if the key was turned off. would I be wasting my money on a new filter? If I go to the dealership for the 120,000 mile 11 year warrenty on the IP/FSD, will they automatically stick me for the parts and labor of a new filter?

[tom.mcinerney]

I'd agree that the symptoms don't point to filter--if it was 'warm start, stall', or 'low power at WOT with adequate boost', the filter would more likely be culpret.
Consider this, though. If the oring sealing the fuel heater to the fuel conditioner housing dries up and leaks a little air after 7 years/110K miles(and they tend to) it makes the FIP work harder to prime, and decreases the ability of fuel flow through filter assembly to keep the PMD/FSD cool.
Plus, if you bring the thing to the dealer with crap in the filter they may feel less obligated to do warranty service without deductibles, or requiring you to do related maintenance--like a new fuel tank/fuel lines! Virtually all automotive diesels (including 6.2L GM) feature both a primary and secondary fuel filter.From a troubleshooting standpoint you don't want to introduce any new variables; but you also want to eliminate easy/cheap/obvious problems, and incorporate routine maintenance.
I agree the Stanadyne filter cartridges are a bit steep, but they seem to be pretty good quality. The location of the filter s~!*s; I and other members ruined the first one we attempted to change, there's a little screen in the housing that sometimes moves off its seat.
Nevertheless, i'd suggest renew filter, clean all battery grounds(and engine grounds if have time), maintain tank above 1/2 full, clean leaves/debris from radiator/condensor {and between}, and consider renewing ignition switch.
Testing fuel is a commercial service like testing lube oil.

[Simzie]

Bill,
I seriously doubt the fuel filter is the cause of your sudden shut down, although replacing the filter may not be a bad idea for several reasons. 1, piece of mind, 2,when bleeding the air out of the fuel system you'll find out if your lift pump is functioning(see instructions in other post on how to go about this).3, this will atleast give you additional ammunition to approach the dealer with and probably save you some cash. If you are concerned with the price of the filter, do some shopping, Fram , Wix, whomever all buy the elements from Stanadyne with a wide variety in pricing check out Advance Auto or Pep Boys, I hear the have the best prices for the same exact filter...good luck Simzie

[whatnot]

Look somewhere else for the filter. They cost $12.99 at a few places around here.

[Bill H]

tom mac 95,

Sorry, but what's 'warm start, stall', or 'low power at WOT with adequate boost'? Mine starts easy when it's cold but dies after idling 5 minutes. Sometimes it starts easy after it dies and sometimes it won't start again for a few minutes. If I can finally run it long enough to get up to normal operating temp, it doesn't seem to stall again, and starts easy after reaching normal temp.

I changed my filter 1000 miles ago and ended up taking the housing off to do it, because the new filter didn't seem to seat properly. I cleaned all crud out of the housing at that time, and when I took the filter out to check, (after running 1000 miles), there was no crud in the bottom of the housing. Is this O-ring that dries out part of the housing or part of the replacement filter?

My truck has been sitting in the drive for a month while I've been doing diagnostics and otherwise preparing for the dreaded trip to the dealership. I've read enough horror stories here to want to be fully prepared before I take it in, so the dealership won't be able to jerk me around.

[tom.mcinerney]

Bill-I think the best response to your original post was that the FSD/PMD was shot/going [that is, it sounded like simple electrical PMD failure] . I attempted to rationalize filter replacement , not aware you had changed it & cleaned housing 1000Mi ago. I mentioned symptoms of 'warm start,(followed by) stall' , and 'low power at Wide Open Throttle (even though) turbocharger boost is functional' as examples of a more likely fuel-starvation-related problem, at initial idle and full running. A weak or dead lift pump will cause these symptoms. Mine would start and run fine cold, but stall 5-15 seconds after a warm start, and no power at WOT--the electric connection to lift pump had far too much resistance to even run the lift pump; the filter housing also weeped a little. I've seen 6.2s, 6.5s, and DMxs stall a few seconds after a cold start{not really sure if fuel or glow issue}, but your stall after 5 minutes is less common....
The bottom of the filter housing is actually the fuel conditioner's heater component, secured by a black plastic ring-nut. If you unscrew the ring, the bottom pops off, and an oring about 1-1/2" in diameter is seen to seal the heater to the housing. The wire pigtail at the base here feeds the heater power, the insulation is sometimes swollen from degradation by fuel dribbling. If it's not wet it might be OK, but it might allow air into housing....To properly fill the filter after installation you should bleed air from the hollow plastic nut atop the filter, a hose on the tube-part of the nut will allow to capture fuel in a jar.
For the fuel injection pumps to run reliably they need decent filtered fuel with a lubricity additive and very little included air; an electrical system with stable connections; and an engine compartment that won't roast .Good luck.