Okay guys, I need advice!

[DMAXDiva]

I've been having driver's side tire-rub problems ever since I upgraded to 16x8 wheels. I'd done everything that I thought possible to address the problem, but it persisted. Then I found the culprit yesterday while the truck was on a lift: the emergency brake cable protrudes 3-4 inches into the wheel well behind the shroud, which forces the shroud into the tire. My question is this: there is a bracket that looks to be designed to hold the cable closer to the wheel well (has two loops for threading the cable through), but the cable is so stiff that it seems impossible to route it through the loops. Furthermore, routing it that way would force the cable into a near 90 degree angle, which I assume would compromise the cable's integrity.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any solutions?

I guess this is the payback I get for chunking those ridiculously small stock tires... tongue.gif

Thanks!

[hoot]

DIVA,

I remember mention of someone using tie-wraps to pull the shroud back. Is that an option?

[Billy14]

DMAXDiva,

Yes, & I think most everyone else does that installs the larger tires but may not know it.

First & in front of the tire, punch two holes in the plastic fender well about 1" from the bottom & centered about 1 1/4" apart horizontally right where the well makes a V shaped bend. This will be about 3" toward the engine from your Ranch Hand bumper. I used a hand punch for steel, but I think a good squeeze type leather punch & a strong hand will work. Run a 1/4" x 15 - 18" long tie wrap through the two holes & around a frame member under the windshield washer reservoir. Push on the well at the V & tighten the wrap.

Now, for the brake cable. Take another tie wrap & make TWO wraps around the cable right under the body mount bolt & rubber doughnut. This will keep the wrap from slipping. Run one end through the existing rectangular hole in the steel bracket & snug the wrap. Push or pull the cable with your hand towards the door, tightening the tie wrap until the cable clears the plastic well about 1/2". Heat, time, & wind will push the well back enough to prevent rubbing. I've done this on two trucks & works like a charm.

Optional third step. The procedures above prevented any rubbing even with my 295's. I had my DEALER (warranty reasons) tweak the front torsion rods & align ($99.00)to almost level out the truck with the added weight of the bumper. Rides a little stiffer but handles like a Vette.

Hope it works! smile.gif smile.gif

Billy

[ 07-12-2002: Message edited by: Billy14 ]</p>

[DMAXDiva]

Ah, bless you Billy!

You have once again come to the aid of a damsel in distress...guess I can call you my "knight in shining DMAX!"

As a matter of fact, I was planning on cranking the torsion bars even further (they've been turned 4x on driver's and 3x on passenger's side already) to try to alleviate the rubbing when I spotted the problem. In retrospect, I should have had the dealer do it, and throw in a free alignment (and have saved myself 100 bucks!).

Thanks again for the info...now I have another weekend project to tackle!