View Full Version : Unexplained Stalls But No DTC Codes, Even When I Try!
Members here have made reference to disconnecting the wires to the IP, then trying to start, and then reconnecting, to force the PCM to give a code the dealership will recognize as needing a new IP. I would try that but I'd have to remove the turbo-to-intake casting to get at the connector (and probably have to buy a new gasket). In order to test my PCM's ability to throw a code when it should, I've disconnected every accessable gizmo under the hood, run the engine, and still get no codes. Can anyone direct me to any specific connector to disconnect, run the engine, try to read codes, and positively prove yes or no, will my PCM throw a code when it should?
charliepeterson
09-29-2003, 18:47
If the truck is running along at temp. and it's like someone reached over and turned the key off then this is a classic PMD (pump mounted driver) failure.
When this fails it will never turn on the SES light. This part IS COVERED by the 120,000 mile 11 year Extended Warranty.
The "Driver" is mounted on the driver's side of the Injection Pump. It's the size of a deck of playing cards and colored black.
It's in your best interest to install this away from the Injection Pump on an air to air "cool plate". This driver has two 500 watt drivers inside and it is really the brains for the Fuel Injection Pump and makes a lot of heat.
It needs a good heat sink, hence the cool plate and not the Injection Pump.
Under warranty the dealer will put it back onto the pump. The driver and cool plate should cost around $400. You could leave the new driver on the pump as a great spare for future service because it can be tough to remove it. This will leave you dead in the water eventually.
Charlie Petterson: If you are running a remote FSD and the Pump FSD is Good, will the Pump FSD
incur any heat damage, or is it only the in use
heat that kills them?
I have a remote 24" cable and a short cable ( 6" ) to pump FSD, as spare. Hope it works when I need it...
Bill,
The connector you've read about is right on top of IP, approximately cubic, black female side (on IP) & connector slides out to the rear. You should, w/some contortions, be able to work connector off rearward, w/out removing upper intake. At a maximum, you could remove the six bolts holding upper intake & rotate it some to get more clearance. But that should be unnecessary using your best Cirque du Soleil contortionist routine. This should produce codes 17 & 18 on OBD1 and 0370/0215 on OBD2 (96 & later). SES light comes on for DTC 17/0370 but not for 18/0215. Light goes off after 3 consecutive starts w/out the problem & DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles w/out prob.
charliepeterson
09-30-2003, 18:55
If you have a known good Driver mounted on the Injection Pump while using a replacement remotely mounted, then the original location will stay good. This is a good idea for a backup when your in the woods or miles from home.
You can get the harness out through the Intake Manifold without removing it. I had to hook it with a coat hanger and slightly extended the ground connection to mount it on a cool plate on top of the Intake.
I have a six inch cable ( home made from and old FSD
and a FSD cable that comes with the FSD units from standyne ) that is plugged into the pump FSD, which
ran 5k miles trouble free.
I also have a 24 inch extension cable to underdash FSD. Both cables plug into Harness above the inj pump
, easy to get to. I may run Pump mounted driver
in the winter....
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