Upgrading front end

[Nix]

I have been considering upgrading the idler, tie rods, etc. If I'm not mistaken there is a company that makes an entire kit for the front end of the Chevy HDs. How hard are these trucks to work on? Do-able with jackstands, creeper & basic tools?

[madmatt]

there real easy. I do however recommend besides your basic hand tools have a pitman arm puller and a pickle fork set to seperate your tie rod ends and relay rod joints. most auto parts stotes will rent you a set.

[Nix]

Thanks madmatt. I was also wondering how hard the steering intermediate shaft and/or steering box are to replace, as I have the infamous steering clunk. I had the greasing done at around 28K, but now the truck is over 98K so I am pretty positive that my particular stealer will give me the runaround like they always have. I seem to recall someone with the same problem posting something to the effect that if the dealer fixed this while the truck was under warranty, and that it was not done right the first time that the dealer has to fix it. Is this true? If so am I well outside of a reasonable time from the original "fix" to have this statement be true?

[D/A]

Does anyone know the name of the company that sells the improved parts. My truck has 41,000 and the dealer said that the idler arm and pitman arm are worn causing the loose feel when driving. I was lucky I took it in last week for the cables and they replaced both the intermeddiate shaft and steering box for free I was happy about that. I had read that someone wrote that there is nothing heavy duty about these trucks I am begining to believe him with only 41,000 on road miles all the parts wearing out. Thanks for any information you might have

[Nix]

Fabtech has a complete front suspension kit for the HDs, although I am unaware of the cost at this point in time. Definitely beefier than the stock 2500HD parts.

[madmatt]

Nix,
the shaft is real easy. 15mm head bolt under the hood and a 15mm head nut under the dash. it's a little tougher w/ adj. pedals but it will still come out. w/ adj. pedals it may be easier to just remove the acc. pedal. just 2 10mm head bolts hold it to the bulkhead. w/ the shaft out DO NOT turn the steering wheel to far to the left or right or the SIR (supplamental inflatable restraint) coil will be damaged. 1/4 turn either way is ok and it makes getting to the bolt/nut easier if using air tools. also if we repair something under warr and a short time after repair and warr is out we usually take care of it depending on the circumstances. 70K is probably a stretch though.

[D/A]

Thanks will look into fabtech replacment parts I didnt see any wear when I had someone move the steering wheel back and forth it seem like theres more play in the steering box but it was replaced at the dealers. I guess I replace the pitman and idler arm and hope this takes the play out ot the steering. Funny think I never noticed it before they changed out the steering box.

[Nix]

Thanks madmatt. I kind of figured that with the warranty thing. What about the steering box? The steering isn't too sloppy, but it feels like it did right before I had the idler and passenger side outer tie rod replaced about 20K ago. Any advice regarding DIY replacement of that one?

[madmatt]

it's not that bad either. just remove the hoses, intermediate shaft, pitman arm and un bolt it from the frame then reverse the procedure. after installation support the front end off the ground, start then work the wheels back and forth to bleed. expect to smash some fingers though. at least I always do. also I'd come up w/ a make shift steering wheel lock to keep it from turning while disconnected. I zip tie it to the shifter.

[Nix]

Thanks madmatt, your help is much appreciated. Now hopefully the steering box won't die before an upgraded aftermarket box is available.

[madmatt]

the stock boxes for the most part are pretty reliable. The failures in the bulletin and few and far between for the most part. speaking to a GM rep. I've found that most of the boxes replaced did not need it and other componets were the actual problem, ie, idler arms, pitman arms, etc... so it appears a lot of them were replaced due to misdiagnoising. a lot of techs see bulletins and stop w/ their diag and assume the bulletins will fix their vehicle.