rear axel seal?

[dodgerfan]

When I rotated my tires yesterday at 20k miles, I found the RR disk, caliper, and inside of the wheel quite well lubricated with what appears to be 75W-90. Searching the forum I see that axel seals appear to be a problem with this truck, but I have a few questions if anyone has had experience with this:

1) I replaced the GM lube at 5k miles with Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90. I know GM is pretty adamant about using their juice - will this cause an issue with warranty service?

2) When I changed the lube, only about 2 quarts came out. Filling it up took about 4 quarts, just like the spec says. Is there a reason GM only fills these up half way (other than being cheap)? Can overfill cause the seals to blow?

Thanks for the help!

[precision37]

Rear axel seal leaks seem to be common. Happened to me and to everyone else I know with one of these trucks. Easy and cheap fix. Covered under the 36/36000 mile warranty, otherwise it should be under $100.00 or do it yourself. seal is about 18 or 20 bucks. Get some brake cleaner and clean off the brake pads, rotors, and parking brake shoes.

[madmatt]

spec is actually 3.1qts or about 1-1.4" (1.4" being min.) below bottom of fill hole. GM released this new spec to decrease axle and pinion seal failures. it was addressed in a TSB.

[mdadgar]

Get some brake cleaner and clean off the brake pads, rotors, and parking brake shoes. Once the brake pads have oil on them, they are dead. They are cheap and your truck is expensive - replace them.

- Mark

[dodgerfan]

Thanks for the feedback. Since I need the truck and it's a pain to get it into the dealer, looks like I'll replace the leaky seal myself. (And, I'll definitely replace the brake pads - as you said, the pads are cheap and the truck is expensive, but the occupants are even more so!)

BUT, I haven't done one of these since doing my '66 mustang... can anyone point me to a quick guide, or is there a good manual I should pick up?

Thanks again!

[madmatt]

I'd suggest taking it to the dealer if at all possible. Even working @ a dealer w/ techs who had done it before, I was still leary w/ the wheel bearing adjusting nut torque setting and procedure. If you do it yourself getting to and replacing the seal is simple and self-explanitory. once you reinstall the hub and bearings torque the nut to 52lb ft while rotating the hub the opposite way. once torqued, loosen the nut untill it turns freely by hand. then the nut must be tourqued to 0ftlbs to no more then finger tight. if the keyway slots don't line up, turn the nut counterclockwise untill it does. and you need a special socket to torque the nut to 52lb ft. I had to read that toruqe sequence to myself several times before I was finally convinced I read it right because usually GM is so precise w/ their specs. It seems to me like that leaves a lot of room for error and uncertainty. I know I wasn't to sure about it.

[BillOtter]

Hey I'm going through driverside rear axle seal problems its always the drivers side. I repalced the brakes and rotors at 80,000 and found the leak so I replaced the seal (piece of cake)and know at 107,000 were leaking again with gummed up brake pads. I changed the rear diff fluid twice since I bought it new and I'm thinking maybe I'm over filling? The dealer told me 3/8" below the fill hole, this was back in 2002. I have $300.00 worth of powerstop brakes I'd like to put on but not until I figure out why these seals are leaking.

[dodgerfan]

I have a feeling it's related to the fill level. See a reply by Madmatt above - a TSB says the capacity should be 3.1 qts. I decided to take a chance on mine - replaced the pads, cleaned the other brake parts, and took a little less than 1 qt. out of the diff. After another 4k miles, no further leaks, keeping my fingers crossed...

[Viking]

Have you checked the vent tube from the diff to make sure it is not restricted?