Starter Problems

[roger350]

My '01 2500HD 6.0L wouldn't start this morning. It made a series of loud rapid fire clicking noises from the solenoid, but nothing else. I had power to the accesories, so I'm pretty sure this is not a battery/charging system problem. If the solenoid is clicking but nothing else happens is that a pretty sure sign it's the starter?

Also have a pretty bad squealing sound when I make left hand turns. Only left turns, and it happens regardless of speed. Any ideas?

Thanks.

[a64pilot]

Rapid fire clicking is usually from not having enough amperage to run things so to speak. If your sure the battery is good and properly charged, then IMHO check connections, especially grounds. Usually if the starter is bad then the solenoid will usually stay engaged. It will click once and not click again until you release the key.

[wushaw]

Low voltage in battery.
Check battery.
Check charging system.
If battery is still the OEM battery that is probably the culprit, 2 years is usually good for AC Delco batteries ( at least in my experience )

[Lone Eagle]

I have heard several outfits over the years make multiple clicks. When the batteries are almost dead they will only click once. Check batteries before the starter. If it is in the starter, it will most likely be the solenoid or brushes. The windings in a starter are tougher than in any other motor. Later! Frank

[roger350]

I have the dual battery option, and I thought it was in series, i.e. everyhting drew from both batteries. Is this not the case? And, if it is the battery, can I jump myself with the Aux. Battery? Thanks for the replies!

[FirstDiesel]

Diesels have 2 batteries. They are not optional. They are not in series, they are in parallel. If one is bad it can seriously affect your ability to start.

[DmaxMaverick]

roger350

Being that you have a 6.0L with the dual battery option, your situation is a little unique compared to most of us.

The OEM dual battery option (for the gassers) is wired in parallel and isolated. The isolator relay should have an override that will allow the secondary battery to provide current to start the engine with. The bonus here, is that it is unlikely that one failed battery will shorten the life of a good one, which is what happens with non-isolated batteries. I would suggest switching the batteries with one another. If that fixes the starting problem, then the bad battery will be in the secondary position until you get it replaced.

I have not personally seen the 6.0L with the option, but am familiar with by the book.

Good luck.

[roger350]

Thanks for all the help guys. I assumed I didn't have a battery problem because the engine didn't even try to crank, giving the tell tale whhaaa whhaaa whhaaa. It just made the rapid fire solenoid clicking. Plus, all the accesories worked fine, radio, lights, etc. And, the green test lights on the batteries were still green. Not very scientific, I know.

After work I hooked it up to my automatic battery charger, and it took about 5-10 minutes for the charger to kick off. After that, the engine cranked without hesitation. So the good news is that it isn't a starter problem, which would have been a mess to change since the truck bottom is covered in red clay from the deer lease.

I suspect one, or both batteries may have gotten a bit too banged around at the lease, and one of the lead plates got knocked over and shorted out against another one? Does that sound consistent with the problem? It just seemed strange to me that it took so little time to charge it up, if it was actually so dead it wouldn't even try to crank the engine?

Can anyone give me a short course on how to test the charging system to isolate the problem to the battery or the alternator? I can't ever remember how to figure out which one is the culprit?

And, as far as battery replacement, it seems like it probably would be good to change both batteries at the same time, to the same identical batteries, but since I have a gasser, perhaps that isn't necessary?

Either way though, sounds like a good time to switch to some of those Optima batteries that can take more vibration. I just want to make sure it isn't the alternator before I go spend a fortune on new batteries!

Thanks again!

[DmaxMaverick]

Checking the alternator is a piece of cake.

Using any volt/ohm meter, set on DC and the range above 15 volts (varies by model, mine is 30 volts), check the voltage at the battery poles, ignition off. The votage should be between 12 and 13. Next, start the engine and check the voltage again. While the engine is running, the voltage should be between 13 and 16. In any case, it should increase from the "off" reading. If the voltage increases while running, the alternator is charging. Do this check with both a cold start, and after the engine has come up to temp. Ocasionally, the alternator will fail when hot, but not cold.

A number of things can cause a battery to discharge unexpectedly. Look at the battery posts. Any sign of corrosion or wetness indicates a broken post or leak.

Good luck

[a64pilot]

You should be OK by just replacing the main battery if the secondary is isloated. If you continue to drive the truck with a bad battery you may take the alternator down with it :D

[roger350]

Well, using Maverick's instructions I was able to isolate the problem to the batteries, thankfully. It turns out one is bad, will only hold 8.5 V, while the other might be borderline low at 10.5 V. Weird thing is, when I charged the good one (12.5 V), and put it in the starting battery location and left the AUX. Battery location empty, it would not start. Apparently GM sized these batteries to handle the starting load together, which sounds more like the battery setup on a diesel, than an AUX. Battery setup for a gas engine. I figured the AUX. Battery was just there for added accessories, etc. Seems weird to me? I'm going to call the local dealer and see how many CCA the stock battery in a 6.0L has, without the AUX. Battery option. Both mine have 600 CCA. I figure I'll replace them both with Optimas each with enough CCA to start the engine on it's own.

[DmaxMaverick]

When you say it would not start with only the one battery, what did it do/not do? Same as before?

Both batteries are not required to start the motor. Every Diesel powered truck I've had would start with just one fresh battery. A gas motor requires much less cranking amps than the Diesel, generally speaking.

You have some other issue at hand. If the one "good" battery is not able to start it, then either you have a wiring problem, or the battery is not "good". If you have the battery charged to 12.5 volts, 600 CCA's should be plenty to start 'er up.

If a non deep cycle battery is repeatedly discharged below 10.5 volts, it won't last long. The battery could still charge up to 12.5 volts, but the amperage capacity will be greatly reduced.

I would suggest you take the battery to Autozone, or any parts house that does free battery load testing. Find out just how well the battery really is.

[roger350]

It tried to crank with the one "good" battery, but couldn't turn it over fast enough, and then went to the clicking again. I am thinking now that perhaps both batteries are in fact bad. I took them out of the truck, so that no mystery current draws from possible electrical shorts could drain them. The "good" batery would reach 12.5 V, but inside of a couple of hours it would dip down to about 10.75. I assume the one "bad" battery took the other one with it went it gave out? But taking them both to autozone would probably be a smart idea. Thanks again for all your help.