passengers side cold right foot

[dave p]

need to get part no. for recirulation door actuator. driver is sweating, and passenger is freezing there right foot and leg. have had it to 5 dealers for this problem and none can fix it. will not give up. dave p

[oyazi]

Five stealers? EGADS! Think they're slo rollin' ya. Do a search ~ this has been posted before. If my forgetter isn't playing tricks, it required removal of the dash and connecting the ducking properly. G'luck

[ItsMrBill]

Dave p, here is the procedure that I found for correcting this problem as I have had it too. I hope this is helpful.

Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal) #01-01-37-008
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

2002 Cadillac Escalade

Condition
Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.
Cause
Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.

Correction
Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
Open the hood and install fender covers.
Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.

Important
Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.


Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
Lower the hood.
Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC module.
Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:

Important
It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.


Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
Lower but do not close the hood.
Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2 N

[Norquist]

My girlfrind has been complaining of this since it's gotten really cold up here. I've just kind of dismissed it (it's not on my side anyways). ;)

Just talked to the dealer and he's aware of the bulletin and since the truck is going to be there over the weekend to repair the fuel rail leak why not take care of it too.

During the summer my A/C condenser freezes over and stops blowing air.

I've seen it addressed and posted here in the past. Do you think this actuator door could possibly be the cause of the this occational problem too??

Some thoughts on this would be nice. Could it actually be inter-related?

[ 01-31-2003: Message edited by: Norquist ]

[ 01-31-2003: Message edited by: Norquist ]</p>

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Dave P,
I just had this problem fixed two weeks ago. I took it to the dealer and I was told there is a seal on the firewall that was either installed incorrectly(from factory) or it had failed. It was replaced and things are much improved. I still have an issue with the location adjustments for the heater, like when I set it to blow to the floor vents, there is quite a bit of heat coming out of the A/C vents. Likewise, with the defrosters. But, with the seal fixed I don't have the cold air coming in anymore on the passenger side.
JP

[dave p]

tech insulated around the heater to day. we went for 2 rides, the first one to see where it was cold on the passengers side. tech took off his right shoe and sock, and could tell where it was cold. we went back to the grage and he got some foam and insulated where the cold had been. we went for another ride and he put in some more foam in the remaining cold spots. it is much better now. the trouble is lack of insulation. my wife like it much better now. dave p :cool: :cool:

[kerry witherspoon]

Well if pasenger is woman many ways she could warm up cold foot.