crossover pipe studs

[Fredeberle]

Noticed in another subject that Bruce Ostien mentioned that he broke 4 of the 6 studs removing the crossover. :(
Is this very common and something I should have spares on hand for(in case) or very uncommon ?
No one seems to have mentioned this in all the reports of working on the exhaust system.
His was a 99 and shouldn't have been that rusted in I would assume.
I know (don't assume anything) :rolleyes:
Any help appreciated.

[G. Gearloose]

Before you break them, get the nuts red with a torch, then work fast. If it gets tight, don't keep going, reheat; its that last twist that beaks them. Then reassemble with neversieze.

[Beedee]

The closer you get to the manifold, the worse it gets, the threads tend to gall up, rust, or sieze up. Some times if you can get to them easy, a shot of penetrating oil everyday for a few days will help, but Gearloose has it right, heat is the best. If that doesn't work its time to drill and blast :mad: and THAT can be a pain in the A$$. Good luck
Brian

[Fredeberle]

Thanks guys,
Don't have torch, can I use propane tank type?
Anything to worry about burning on the turbo side?
Don't know how much room there is over there:(

[Bobbie Martin]

I removed mine a while back and had no problems. The Sub is a 1995, so they had been on for 8 years or so. No matter what, use never seize on the threads when you reinstall. Might be a good idea to replace the donut gaskets while its apart. A long wobble extension is a big help also.

[k3500]

An impact wrench works great on rusted exhaust bolts. I've gotten many bolts out this way.

[Kennedy]

The crossover typically uses bolts. They rust into the manifold, and can tend to erode to look like an apple core.

Twist hard or impact and you'll twist them off.

The key is to heat the lobe of the manifold cherry red/orange with an oxygen boosted torch. Then they need to be removed while still hot.

Be careful not to start the truck on fire. Be sure to have the proper fire fighting equipment on hand.

[spra01]

Try heating up the studs red hot, and then touching it with candle wax, the wax will suckup into the threads, lubricating it and reducing the chance of breaking.
Definitly use antisieze on reassembly.

[Craig M]

Ok I am lost on this thread. Heat expands metal. On a stud and nut connection one should want to heat the nut to get it to expand. Heating the stud will increase the size of the stud and get it tighter to the cool nut. Is there some other factor going on here that I am not considering? Heat reducing friction or breaking the rust bond?

[tom.mcinerney]

Craig-What you say is true, and it is better to heat the 'nut' (outer threaded) aspect primarily. As a matter of empirical experience, mechanics know that red heat at an exhaust joint will enable unscrewing the fasteners. Or as JK said, red/orange. The crystal structure of steel changes at red heat, it becomes softer. You want the heat at the joint, not on the bolt head.
Fred-Propane alone won't do. Scorching wire harnesses, etc is a possibility.

[Fredeberle]

Thanks again for the help guys:)
It was my mistake, this is a bolt not stud & nut not that it is going to help me in anyway :(
Guess you just have to pay your money and take your chances!
Not like the old days when with a screw driver,pliers,hammer & a few wrenches you could do most anything.

[ucdavis]

I replaced mine w/stainless from South Coast Stainless in Lake Havasu City, AZ. They have exact shoulder-bolt replacements in about a grade 8 equivalent IIRC. Also w/anti-seize, of course.
Did the same w/the turbo shoulder-nuts cuz they get hotternhe%% and burn up/seize too. Couldn't get all of the latter; one OEM is frozen on, so I'll hafta deal w/that some day.
South Coast is a great outfit. I believe they'll slap together a complete fastener kit for many applications (allen drive & polished if you want it, though they charge for pretty).