95 6.5TD died and won't restart

[jirvan95]

A little background. Rebuilt LP and injectors installed by mechanic 3 months ago. The truck has had a severe hard starting condition ever since but ran with no smoke and reasonable power for a 140k mile truck. Last week it just died at about 40mph and hasn't restarted since.

Here is what I have checked so far.

- LP had failed (again - replaced it 5 months ago) replaced and checked fuel flow up to the IP. Did notice some red sludge at the filter so I cleaned it out. Still not sure what that stuff was but the fuel is running clean at the LP.

- PCM was throwing codes 13,17,18,19,23,32,33,35,36,54, and 78 yesterday. Cleared codes. Most are signal faults on various sensors but 54 and 78 are not in my list of codes.

- Checked all grounds. Cleaned and tightened all of them.

- Cracked #1 injector and no fuel flow when I crank the motor.

- Checked the Fuel shutoff solenoid.It is operating properly. 12v at the plug and good clean clicks when I engage and disengage power to it.


- Codes 17 -High Res circuit fault and 18 -Pump cam reference pulse error are back today after trying to start it a few times

- In the process of trying to get at the connector to the FSD module to check signals without pulling the intake. I think the intake is about to come off though. My fingers are just to big.

Anyone have any suggestions on what to check next? I'm going to check the FSD next but those two codes that came back sound more like sensors in the IP itself.

Thanks

[More Power]

Dollars to donuts you've got an electrical problem. Whenever the PCM throws a series of unrelated codes, the problem almost has to electrical...... Bad batteries, bad battery cables, bad grounds, bad alternator, corrosion in the electrical distribution center/fuse panel, wiring harness connector corrosion or a bad PCM (among the many possibilities).

Jim

[JohnC]

Still sounds like power or ground problems. The '95 ignition switch is problematic. I'd look at the power to the fuel solenoid fuse. If it's flakey all bets are off. Also the ground at the rear intake manifold stud, I think contains the ground between the engine and PCM.

[charliepeterson]

You should have three grounds circuits on the stud on the passenger rear head. The fuel solenoid fuse, "F sol." under the hood is very important (20 amp).

When you turn the key on engine off you must have the SES light and service throttle soon light on, then off.

The Injection Pump MUST be tight too. Three nuts on the back and three bolts on the front through the oil fill tube adapter.

This injection pump and ECM need good clean power from the battery. Any corrosion at the eye terminals will give you fits.

Good Luck

[tom.mcinerney]

Above advice excellent.
If
>> Checked all grounds. Cleaned and tightened all of them.
true, start with ignition switch replacement if it's original [see posts by 'Billman' re replacement]. You may have lost the fusible link from B+ cable to alternator, or alternator may have lost a few diodes, causing noisy output.

[jirvan95]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the info. I did everything you guys suggested and still nothing. About the time I finished testing all the electronics I heard a drip from under my truck. I couldn't find it so I took the intake off. The leak was from the back of the fuel solenoid and it had filled the valley pan up and was leaking off the back of the motor.

So the question is what (besides a bad rebuild) would would cause this on a 3 month old IP? I am about to drop another big chunk of money on another IP and I don't want to break another one in 3 more months because I just fixed the symptoms and not the problem.

thanks for any info

[twaddle]

Hi there,
Don't you have warranty on the 3 month old injection pump.

Regards

Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland

[jirvan95]

Long story but short of it is this. The "mechanic" that installed the pump ended up being a hack. (Be glad you didn't have to see the confrontation I had with him and the local auto parts store guy that referred him).

As I have been tearing down my motor I've found:
- 3 loose nuts on the intake
- He reinstalled my intake with a ear cracked completely off the #4 cylinder port and never told me.
- I found my GP controller unbolted (found the bolts in my valley pan when I took the intake off)
- Just took the injector pump off and used my fingers to unloosen the mounting nuts.

- Realised about a month ago while filing the receipt that he only replaced the passenger side injectors. Checked out my injectors last night and this morning and one bank is around 1200psi and the other bank is around 800psi.

- Now he won't warranty the pump he installed.

And all that for the low low price of $3000.00

Anyway, no I don't have a warranty. Thats the first and last time in my life I go to a mechanic for out of warranty repair work. I have always worked on gas vehicles but never diesels so I opted to take it to a "professional".....ooops.

P.S. - not knocking mechanics just this particular one. I know most of you aren't like this wrench monkey.


JI

[twaddle]

Hi Jason,
Sorry to hear of the very bad standard of workmanship that the so called mechanic has landed on you.
I sympathise with you, in the past I used to employ a couple of guys and seemed to have more and more trouble finding good honest engineers.
I found they could talk the talk but definately could NOT walk the walk.

By the sound of what you say the whole job needs to be checked over including the pump timing.

If there are areas that leak or don't seem right but you are not to sure how to describe it why not post a couple of pictures with arrows pointing to whatever and maybe some of the guys can help.

Good luck

Jim Twaddle
Biggar, Scotland

The other thing to consider, is there any DP members in your area that could lend a hand or advice.

[Bigg R]

Always remember: You're just another dollar in a mechanic's pocket, no one cares about your vehicle more than you do, so if you got any mechanical ability, that makes you the best man for the job!! Unless you know your a hack too!!!!
Then your S.O.L.!!!!

[jirvan95]

I got the truck back together tonight and it started right up with the new IP and 4 new injectors. It looks like the vac pump is completely dead but it runs good other then that.

Just need to get it to the dealership now and have the timing checked. Its blowing a little white smoke and idling a little rough but has good power.

On the way home from were I worked on it it threw a code 33 and 62. 33 is EGR signal high. Hopefully thats just the vac pump being dead. Not sure what 62 is as it isn't in any of the lists I can find.

thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.

[landrea]

I just happen to have a 95 book out(trying to fix my no start problen)code 62 is turbo boost circuit low,maybe because of the vac pump bad?Good luck re fixing the rig.

[JohnC]

Usually when a code says a signal is high or low it means the PCM saw a reading outside the normal range. Often this is an electrical problem, not a mechanical problem. I'd start by checking allthe connectors and grounds, especially the one on the rear passenger's side of the intake manifold.