Rear Lift Block Kits

[DaveRuane]

Anybody use blocks to lift the rear of their truck yet. I need a bout 2" and can't seem to get any help from the local 4x4 shops. I need to know where to buy blocks and what the specs are on the u-bolts to gain 2". Anybody got any sources?

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Silverado 2500HD CrewCab 8.1/Allison; Auto; SB 4x4; Indigo w/ red striping; Z85 Graphics; StylEyes headlight covers; 4-lamp conversion; tinted windows; taillight guards; Rhino-lined; Extang Sabre Tonneau; Escort 7500; Uniden 538W,
Flowmaster#530504 exhaust

[Kennedy]

I hate blocks. I prefer to add a leaf or arch what is there. It is much more secure that way and the axle has less leverage on the springs.

FYI, Most Dodge and Ford trucks come with FACTORY lift blocks in the rear...

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John Kennedy
www.kennedydiesel.com (http://www.kennedydiesel.com)
John@kennedydiesel.com
2002 Chev. K2500HD Dmax/Allison Crew Cab Long Bed Pewter/Tan LT Driving it!!!
1996 GMC K2500HD 6.5TD Ex.Cab LWB 260+ Rw H.P.
1984 K30 SRW 6.2NA Headers and custom 2 into 1 exhaust FOR SALE
'01 FXDWG Black/Chrome Yellow (2 into 1 Thunderheader <naturally>) (100+ RwHP)
"If I had to explain, you wouldn't understand"

[DaveRuane]

C'mon guys! Anybody have any info? It looks like the axle/spring perch is about 2-3 inches high and not solid (hollow, if you will) on the 2500HD. Does this perch come off, or is it welded on? Any sources for either a 2" block (for use with existing) or a 5-6" block (for use without the perch)?

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Silverado 2500HD CrewCab 8.1/Allison; Auto; SB 4x4; Indigo w/ red striping; Z85 Graphics; StylEyes headlight covers; 4-lamp conversion; tinted windows; taillight guards; Rhino-lined; Extang Sabre Tonneau; Escort 7500; Uniden 538W,
Flowmaster#530504 exhaust

[Derek M]

DaveRuane, Did you end up finding the blocks and u-bolts you were looking for or did you do something else?

Thanks

[Buck]

I HATE BLOCKS :mad:
I put an Explorer Pro Comp Add-A-Leaf kit in my truck and it rides much better! Before it rode on the overload leaf (unloaded). I feel that GM springs all of their trucks to light anyway. My Sportsman 500 H.O. in the bed used to sag it before. After install my truck was 2" higher in the rear. I turned the torsion bars up a bit. My truck's rear is now 1.5" higher in the back after the torsion bar adjustment. (wanted factory stance after torsion bar adjustment)

Anyway, I ordered it from Summit Racing part # EXP-13124 ($49.99 long leaf 2.5" wide) Factory U bolts are plenty long enough for this job.

Jack up truck place jack stands under rear frame (I put them under the brackets that are riveted to the frame that holds the shackles) let weight off the springs loosen u bolts, drop the hitch so you can take the whole shackle off, leave attached to spring. Remove front spring bolt then remove u bolts. Take spring out lay on flat floor c clamp each side of centering bolt then remove centering bolt then cut the factory spring keepers off( I bought new ones at Autozone). I put the add-a-leaf above the first thin leaf (both are about the same length) I also JB welded some 2.5" squares of poly to the top side of the new leaf(3000 miles and still looks ok) There is also a 12 ga piece of galvanized steel between each leaf(2.5"x4 I think) I made 1 for each side. Line the springs up put in new centering bolt, put spring pack back on truck and your done. It only took me 4 hours to do all this.

Sorry, about the long post! Hopefully this will help someone as this site has helped me smile.gif

[mark45678]

I agree with JK any time you use blocks you will only end up with wheel hop every time you get in sand,mud or even on the road !the lift blocks let the axal rap up to much and un load when you loose traction! A good friend of mine broke the bell houseing on his 98 K2500 C6p with a nv4500 from wheel hop! Big tires only compound things,leaf re-arching and add a leaf is your best bet!

[DaveRuane]

Yep, put 2" blocks in back about 1 week ago. While I agree with all the negatives regarding potential axle wrap, hop and torsion. They really did do the trick and 2" is fairly minimal. Most other makes of contemporary trucks come stock with blocks!

I have an 11-hour roadtrip coming up in a week and will learn more about these blocks in a variety of terrain. I am going to look into a kicker shock or traction bar if axle wrap is noted. Trying to avoid the add-a-leaf due to ride quality, but might consider it if the blocks give me any grief.

2" Superlift blocks in back combined with 1"+ torsion bar crank, make this truck sit the way it should - although 285"s are definitely a MUST now!

Check out post-lift pix at http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=677644&uid=434355

[Derek M]

DaveRuane,

Where did you get your 2" block kit? URL? What size tires are you running now?

I've already got the 1.5" blocks all I'm needing is the u-bolts really.

I do understand this might cause some wheel hop, if it does I'll try something else like the helper springs that were suggested. I'm just trying to get a little more rear height for little investment and leverage the stuff I have first if it will work.

Thanks a bunch

[ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: Derek M ]</p>

[DaveRuane]

I used Superlift #3825 - it was a kit with U-bolts and blocks. The u-bolts were perfect length and only have about 3/8-inch excess hanging in the path of boulders!

I haven't noticed any problems yet but have'nt tried sand, or washboard roads. I just ordered a Roadmaster Active Suspension kit that is like the old kicker shock but apparently works much better in reducing axle wrap, wheel hop and sway. It looks like a beefy cool spring that bolts to your leaf spring from the axle to the rear end of the spring - effectively controlling axle wrap etc, without stiffening the ride. Sounds like a great add-on. I'm going to query the field about this in a separate post...

[Kennedy]

Well, after this weekend's towing trip (400 miles empty, and 400 miles with 2k+ pin weight (17k trailer) I can honestly say that the additional leaf/re-arch is AWESOME! Even with 80 psi in the tires it rode decent! I was a bit concerned about squat when loaded, but it really settled in nice.

My point about the springs and ride is this: Unless I am missing something, the same spring packs are used from a reg cab to Ext cab to crew cab. There is a solid lower leaf that engages the second stage where the spring rate increases dramatically. the key here is to engage this before the vehicle squats excessively. What I see is that they run VERY close to this point when empty, and are frequently engaging. This is what gives you bounce and rebound as the springs rate increases quite rapidly, and of course the stock shocks cannot dampen sufficiently.

Adding a leaf and re-arching will add a SLIGHTLY firmer ride, but will keep you in the first stage in most cases, and slow down suspension travel as you approach the second stage. My truck being a crew cab long, rode nearly constantly on the second stage...