Allison shifter is hard

[Maxter]

Lately I've been having problem in cold weater moving the shift lever thru different position. I had to push pretty hard on it but as the truck got warmer, the movement became normal.

This afternoon I took the truck and everything was fine but now I only have access to Park, Neutral and Reverse. There's a "physical" block when I try to go to Drive. It feels like it's going to break when I try to go there.

My NSBU is brand new and when my two previous switches died, I was able to go thru all the position, only the display and the tranny wouldn't follow. So I don't think it's that.

I've read a few posts about the cable but it was related to the inability to go to Park and that's one of the only laces I CAN go!

Any ideas?

Thanks

[YZF1R]

Maybe something with the detents in the steering column? You know, how you have to pull it toward you to move it. Or don't you need to for all positions? I guess you could unhook the cable at either end to point you in the right direction. Sorry I couldn't be more help, just thinking out loud.

Steve

[Hound]

Maybe the Shield for the NSBU shaft is getting hung up? Who installed the new switch? :confused:

[DmaxMaverick]

There are no detents in the column. They are only in the NSBU.

Best place to start would be to disconnect the cable at the NSBU. If it's still stiff, then it's in the cable or hardware in the column. If it moves freely, then it's in the NSBU, or possibly in the tranny, such as the parking pawl engagement. You might also check the brake interlock. Could be freezing up in the cold.

When the temps get extremely cold, the cable could be tightening up from thickening grease, or no grease. Just a possiblility.

Good luck.

[Maxter]

The dealer installed the new NSBU, I'm going to have to be towed there this morning.

The brake interlock works fine to get out of Park, Once you're in neutral you can normaly go to Drive without pulling the lever.

I tried pulling, not pulling and pulling harder with no success!

We're going to see this morning at the dealer!

JF.

[77TransAm]

The steering column has the "gates" that prevent you from shifting straight from drive to reverse, or into or out of park, etc., without pulling the shift lever towards you. The detent lever inside of the transmission has the detents that give you shift "feel" and make sure that the selector lever stays centered in each gear. The NSBU has nothing to do with shift feel - it just tells the TCM where the lever is positioned. From your description, the first thing I would check is for a broken shift cable where it snaps into the bracket down near the NSBU (assuming that a new NSBU is the only work that has been done recently).

[Maxter]

The whole thing is in a big chunk of ice. However, the NSBU switch is clear and the lever where the cable attaches is free. I will try to unfreeze it first. It's hard to work when it's -20C outside...

[Hound]

You may have just found the cause yourself! When you said the thing is a big chunk of ice, that's likely what's causing the issue. smile.gif

[Turbo Al]

Mine was a big chunk of ice for 5 days two weeks ago and I had no problems shifting. It was -15.

[Maxter]

First indications point to humidity in the shift cable's housing. It come in two parts. Dealer recomends changing both but it's probably the one near the transmission.

The truck is sleeping in a heated garage right now with a heater underneath. The chunk of ice was not where the shift lever is. That area was clear so even if there's ice on the cable housing it shouldn't afect its operation.

Could there be a water infilration IN the NSBU big enough to stop it from moving?

I'm going to wait until tomorrow to see the whole thing without ice and look for possible weak spot.

[Jake99Z71]

Maxter
I had this problem last year. I found from backing threw piles of snow I built up ice on the side of the trans. I couldn't shift into 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. Till I warmed the chunk of ice on the NSBU and trans shaft.

[Hound]

Jake, I had pretty much the same thing happen to mine last year after running thru a good bit of snow. It was fine as I was only in D but when I got close to home and wanted to use the trans to control descent down the hills, I found that I couldn't get down into 1st. The next day after a good thaw and 1st was not a problem.

[Turbo Al]

I just finished a 1,600 mile trip in some of the worst road conditions I have driven (pulling a trailer) and as I said the whole truck was a block of ice/frozen mud/salt it was two inches thick on the front of the trailer and about 1/2 inch thick on the frame of the truck. I did look at the trans while I was up there and it was covered in snow/ice. I think the only saving grace for me was that the trans actually got warm (because I was pulling the trailer) to "dry out" enough to funtion properly. Right now the NSBU (I believe) is acting up, it's the old style. The PND123 light is not lighting up then it sorta glows then it comes full on, a minor bug and the dips at the dealership refused to replace the NSBU. So it will go in somewhere else.
Al

[SteveO]

Maxter,

Jake99Z71 hit the nail on the head.. You may have a physical object lodged against the shfter lever at the transmission.. It may be ICE it may be Mud or Rocks etc..

The easiest way to determine is to look under the truck on the drivers side at the transmission.. Set the Park Brake and have someone move the shifter whiel you look for anything obstruction the movement..
The next step is to remove the Shifter Cable assembly from the Transmission and move the Incab Shifter lever.. If it's Hard to move with it unhooked then it's in the Coluum/Cable..

[Maxter]

The area was clear of ice and any foreign objects. The cable seems to be the problem.

When I left the truck in a heated garage it was ok the next morning. However, I created a second problem when I used alot of force to move the lever when the cable was frozen.

I broke the plastic thingy at the end. This plasic sleeve guides the metal shaft and cable when it moves tovard the Park position. I had to do a makeshift cable end to settle that because the part was not in stock.

I already needed another cable so now I REALY need another one. It comes in two parts. I probably need the exterior part but will change both just to be sure. It's 150$CAN for the kit.

Thanks to all for the help.

JF.

[Lonewolf867]

OUCH!!
Not sure about mileage but shouldn't this be covered under warranty?

Mike

[Maxter]

It probably would be but I have around 94,000 km and the "general" waranty stopped at 60,000 km so now I do it myself to save money...