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92gmc
03-31-2004, 09:21
I'm going to install a fresh clutch in my 92 ext cab 4x4 before I get too busy with summer and all.

Clutch is fine but I want to get to a slight leak in the rear main seal and a noisy (I think) pilot bearing.

A few questions;

Do I need to remove the transfer case separately to be able to move the tranny back far enough ? Or can I remove the tranny/tcase from the bellhousing and get at the clutch that way ?

It looks like I can only move the tranny/tcase back about six inches before it hits the torsion bar x-member.

Are the standard Luk clutches as good as the oem clutch ?


Thanks in advance

Chris Hinds
03-31-2004, 10:13
Gotta pull the t-case off the trans first. Sorry.

I had a Luk clutch in mine, and replaced it with a luk clutch b/c someone put a single mass flywheel in it before I bought it. Works fine for me. The Luk kit comes with a throwout bearing and pilot bearing too. Or the one for a single mass flywheel does, anyway. smile.gif

Also, when you pound in the new rear main seal, make sure you only drive it in as far as the old one was pushed in. There's a tool for this, but it's over-rated.

a5150nut
03-31-2004, 12:35
If you get the roller bearing pilot, through it out and use the bronze bushing. I think it is the same as for early models. The roller bearing is to easy to destroy stabbing the trans and doesn't last as long.

I have had mine out three times. Once I used a thans jack but had better luck ballancing on a standard floor jack. Also watch your clutch line to the slave. DISCONECT IT AT SLAVE AND MASTER CYLINDER. Its no fun driving in 5 oclock rush hour traffic without a clutch! :mad: Slave and master are made of plastic and it doesn't take much to crack them. And it won't leak right away.

Good luck and have fun...... ;)

92gmc
03-31-2004, 12:44
thanks for the replies

RT
04-03-2004, 13:22
I had trouble finding the bronze input bushing so I put the roller bearing type in. I packed it with grease before I put the trans back in. If you have to bleed the clutch be VERY gentle with the bleeder screw on the slave. Anything more than 1-finger tight on the allen wrench will crack the housing. I prefer the rented trans jacks for this work. Enjoy, its not all that bad. RT

moedog
04-03-2004, 15:05
GO TO CAROLINACLUTCH.COM AND ORDER A LUK PROGOLD CLUTCH.AROUND 300.00 AND ONE HELL OF A CLUTCH FOR THE MONEY. WAY BETTER THAN OEM. LIKE 90% BETTER HOLDING POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

catmandoo
04-03-2004, 18:08
also make damn sure you get the correct one,take your old disc with you,i got the wrong one,their book showed a 6.2 clutch so assumed it was correct,and installed it and after that it had the most hideous growl to it in neutral with clutch out.push in clutch and it would stop,had to take the clutch out and looking at it the center splines were tight on the disc,we got looking thru a delco book and it showed 2 different clutchs so got the other one out and the center splines are set in a plastic type bushing.put that in and it's quiet as a mouse,also you will need to get the trans out of the way because that pilot bearing is hell to get out you will definately need a puller for it,also to remove the shifter handle remove the boot and there is a halfmoon retainer holding the shifter it has 2 flats you need to push down on it while turning counterclockwise,and it's under tension i used a chisel and got it in the corner of the flat and just pop it and it should pop out.the first time i did the clutch it took a day and a half the second time 3 days later took 2 hours.oh this is a 2wd though.4wd is gonna take ya lots longer.

moedog
04-05-2004, 18:45
FORGOT TO TELL YOU, HAVE YOUR FLYWHEEL RESURFACED OR WARRANTY WILL BE VOID AND YOU MAY GET CHATTER!!