Block ID Number?

[Arlie]

I read that the number to ID the block is located behind the driver side head above the bell housing and is supposed to be a letter followed by three numbers.
With a mirror I got this 8 digit number from this location: 10149599
Anyone know what it means?
Arlie

[Jim P]

I am no real authority on these numbers but I think the last three numbers are what you are looking for.

My truck is a 95 and it has the same 599 like yours. So I would assume yours is about the same year. Does yours have a mechanical injector pump or an electronic? The electronics started in 94.

I have also read that the real late 6.2s had the same 599 number on them. The cylinders in the 6.5s were just bored bigger to make up the extra displacement.

[CleviteKid]

The -599 number means you have one of the best blocks available. DO NOT trade it in on something else, but have it rebuilt to your own specifications, if that is what you have in mind.

TheDieselPage.com 300 horsepower engine is based on a -599 block, and my SAA custom engine from The Diesel Depot is similarly based on the -599 block.

Consider yourself lucky.

Dr. Lee http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/party/dance2.gif

[Randee of the Redwoods]

Hey, cleviteKid, what are the chances I could have that 599 block? I thought the 599's were a later upgrade for the motors, something started further on in the production of the 6.5's to make up for early production deficiences(sp). So is there actually a chance I could have that one? Were the 599's instead something that came earlier than I thought?(keeping fingers crossed-will tell you after christmas)

[Arlie]

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'm a little puzzled.

My truck was converted from a 454 to diesel before I got it. I still don't know what year my engine is. It's turbo, and has a mechanical IP so I think it's 93 or 94. I'm about 90% sure It's done in after an oil leak (still trying to figure this out).

The link below indicates the best blocks are the "enhanced" block starting in 1999, using improved steel, bigger mains, and thicker walls where the cracks occur.

http://www.amghummer.com/Diesel/No8Cyl/CrackedBlock.htm

I may have a line on a "Goodwrench" long block at a reasonable price that would presumably have the enhanced block.

Dr Lee, having read a lot on the forum I certainly respect your advice and will consider having mine rebuilt. Could you fill me in a bit further?

I sure appreciate the great insights gained here. Having recently printed out and read the troubleshooting guide, I have a much greater interest in the 6.5. I was considering switching back to gas, but I'm now more inclined to stay with the diesel.

Arlie

[G B Sisson]

That's a narrow slot to look through,even with a mirror. Next time I'm at parts store I need to get a small inspection mirror on an arm. Can you be more specific where to stick the mirror.Is it near the OP sender/switch? To right or left of this when facing firewall,how far down? At 50,Im still getting used to these*#&@ reading glasses.Ive got a couple of young employees in my cabinet shop,maybe I"ll have one of them give it a look.... Thanks, GB

[Arlie]

Years ago when I was working on aircraft we had to have lots of mirrors for the many tight spaces. Never did run across any diesel airplanes though. :D

You are right, the number is near the OP sender. The block extends back behind the driver's head so the block surface with the raised numbers faces up not back toward the firewall. Look right behind the head. I stood on a 5 gal pail and layed over the passenger fender.

Arlie

[ 12-22-2003, 03:52 PM: Message edited by: Arlie ]

[Arlie]

I can hardly believe it but I just drove my truck for about 20 miles and the engine runs perfectly! :eek:

I had zero oil pressure during two 20 second runs, and several trials cranking with IP disabled. Also no oil came out the turbo line.

Given the experience of others on this site after losing oil I was expecting my engine to be terminal. :(

Jim advised me to use a priming tool to spin the oil pump with a drill and see what developed. I couldn't locate a tool but found that an 8mm socket fit the pump shaft perfectly. Ten seconds spinning and stop - I hear blub blub (air lock?). Next spin I've got consistent 20lbs showing but no oil out the turbo line even with about 60 seconds pumping (I did just change the filter). Drive gear was then replaced and more cranking with IP disabled - 20 lbs but no oil out the turbo line :confused:

Time to start the engine - I've now got 40 lbs and oil out the turbo line! Runs like before. Thank you God. :D

I'm going to put on replacement oil cooler fittings and lines and throw the leak-prone push on fittings in the lake. :mad:

I'll send in an oil anlalysis after about 100 miles. (Anyone got a suggestion where to send it?)

I've learned a lot about these engines in the meantime in having to do some work on mine, and researching overhaul options.

Someone here early on told me, be patient and take one step at a time (or something like that) - thanks.

A special thanks to Jim for the key tip.

I believe there's a good chance if I'd have just taken it to a mechanic I'd be paying for a rebuilt right now.

This site rocks.

Arlie

BTW - this seems like a very good deal on a Goodwrench long block. I'm tempted to pick one up for future use. Then again, maybe I'll get another 100,000 out of mine.

http://store.zips.com/proddetail.asp?partnum=6.5%20DSL%20LONG%20BLOCK

PS: Dr Lee, I'd sure like to know what year my engine is. Does the number tell you?

[ 12-22-2003, 05:34 PM: Message edited by: Arlie ]